BeerBaron

yes, you can remove the thumb safety and grip safety to get an idea of what's going on.

it's weird. having had and played with a few aftec guns now some are definitely easier than others. I had one that was seemed ridiculously hard just to get it out! was comparatively easy to get it back in. I think some variances in the geometry around the entry to the hole at the front of the extractor tunnel as well as the geometry going on inside the tunnel makes it vary a bit. some variance in the aftecs themselves is probably at play too. some are definitely way easier than others to remove and replace.

I can't speak to your dot but I have had 3 ck's (2 thunder, 1 hardcore) in my hands for zeroing. All running cheely rts2 mount. All zero'd out just fine at 20 yards with poi being about 1inch high at 30 yards and about 1inch low at 7 yards. The only thing I can think of is a problem with your particular rts2. Its possible the mount or the frame holes weren't drilled on the proper angle but I'd consider that unlikely since it's probably done in a jig on their cnc and also since your old rts2 zerod just fine. Unfortunately it sounds like it needs to go back to cmore again.

I have a couple as extra mags (2 170s and a 140). Ive actually so far found them very reliable. I did fit one of the 170s with grams spring and follower but their factory followers are not bad. I have heard their factory springs don't last so long in the 170s. One of mine has slightly tight feed lip dimensions but I tried it first and it runs well.

I have had a good team (v12) and now have 2011s. Shooting a gold team is going against the current. I really like the ergos on the gt. it points better for me than the 2011. Love the grip. Mine was very reliable but I did break a slide stop and an extractor (mine was 38 super). They just aren't really built to run 9major with any longevity. Super is a little better. I think despite the best shooter in the world using one they are not the best open gun choice. Also with the v12 you need a very stout load to make major pf. I was running 10.2-10.4gn of 3n38 with a 124gn cmj. I run 9.1-9.2gn in my 2011 which still has popple holes (just 3 instead of 12).

I use the colt/egw spring but the wolf looks ok too.

Left one looks less aggressive to me? i think left (möbius cut) is std and right may also be std or tactical?

Either 9 or super can be made to run. Super costs more to buy brass but you can easily load them 20+ times (IF you get them back) and since it's all good brass you have no issues with stepped brass, out of spec stuff or crimped pockets. 9mm is cheap or even free. But if you want the gun to run you will have to spend time sorting the brass. Removing steel and alloy cases. Removing stepped brass, swaging or removing crimped brass, removing or roll sizing bulged 9mm. Guys who just gather up buckets and run whatever are the ones digging out cases from the chamber after dnf'ing a stage, or dealing with bulges that won't chamber etc. if you want reliable you either pay in cash (super comp) or with time (9mm). The number 1 open gun failure is ammo related. So get your load sorted and some level of qc and that will go a long way towards happy times. Number 2 cause is probably magazines. They need regular cleaning and periodic tubing and spring and even follower replacement. Keep on top of that and again you'll have a good time. Number 3 I would say is dirty or under lubed guns. There is not really such a thing as too much oil. I used to like grease but these days I'm sold on the thin oil idea (and plenty of it). Thin oil does get pushed out of the gun so it needs to be replenished fairly often. Well lubed is most important but clean is good too. I'll add to this general gun maintenance. Common open gun issues are things like: loose grip screws, loose scope mount screws, loose comp and so on. You need to keep a good eye on all the guns screws and parts. Number 4 cause of malfs I'd say is home smithing. Ie took too much pressure off the sear spring, fitted a new part that is not fitted right or untested etc. so go slowly with the home mods and double check your work. Also see the loose screws part of number 3. Number 5 is the gun. Sadly sometimes you do steps 1-4 really well but the bastard still won't run. Slide touching comp is a common open gun f$&k up. Incorrect link. Poor barrel fit. Timing off. Comp not align reamed. There are many little things a smith can have stuffed up that will give head scratching malfs. The good news is items 1-4 are within your control. Item 5 is not really. You can choose the best smith out there and still sometimes get the 'Friday afternoon' gun. No one is infallible. But there are many guys who put out solid product most of the time. Start with one of those and go from there.

I would say it's interfering with the disconnector moving up freely. That's why you hear a click if you pull trigger forward (frees the disco). Try a little more pressure on the middle leg of the sear spring.

Thanks for the correction. No idea where I got alloy from!?

Extractor or ejector? ejectors will break (especially if the mag feed lip hits it during a slide lock reload). Extractors snapping is very unusual. They can lose tension but they should last a long time.

I think 38sc and popple holes are a good idea with all those comps. It looks like aircoooedracer is selling his comp. Ive not shot one but the reports are good and it does have the added bonus of looking cool with the kind of heart shaped baffles/chambers. I shot an akai gill comp recently and really liked that but it was also heavily ported (v6 or v8). I think that contributes to its performance. I think 2-3 holes and any of those 5 comps would be nice. perhpas consider material too. Cfd is ti i believe lsi is ti? akai steel brazos I think aluminium? aircooledracer steel steel is easiest to fit/machine/thread and poses no issues with any potential galvanic reaction that you can get with ti on steel. But it's also typically the heaviest which can alter the feel of the balance. Aluminium is lightest but most fragile. Titanium is a fairly good balance between weight/strength. i quite like ti comps. Some claim they feel 'harsher' but I'm not sure why they feel that.

I hear you on that point. Slow fire group shooting is actually something of a skill in itself and not something we tend to practice. Shooting tight repeatable groups off hand at 20 yards+ is tough. I know I couldn't do it for a while. Youre doing the right thing. Zero at the distance at which you can shoot repeatable groups. If you can setup a decent rest it is worth zeroing or checking zero at 20 yards or more if you can. But yeah at closer distances it takes quite a few clicks to get a noticeable change.

agree. could really be: "if you're going to shoot xtremes....." they are very sensitive to crimp.

I think people have had great success with: binary eng comp LSI comp brazos thunder comp Akai 3 gill comp Those seem to be the hot shit right now. I currently run 3 open blasters. 2 are twins and run a titanium cheely comp with 3 barrel holes. the other is a SVI comp with 2 (large) barrel holes. I do think there is a little bit more noice with the cheely comp but it's still a very nice shooting gun. if I was trying a new comp it would be one of the 4 I listed above. or aircooledracers comp if that is for sale.

12 yards is a pretty short distance to zero the gun. I can't remember what the clicks are? probably 1MOA or 1/2MOA. lets assume 1MOA that means 1 click only moves POA 1 inch at 100 yards. at 12 yards one click will only move POA 1/8inch. I like to set the zero at 20 meters but verify it at 25. as I got better the distance I zeroed at got further away. partly because as a noob I would struggle to shoot really repeatable groups at distance. if that's the case either use a rest or get someone who is good at group shooting to help zero the gun. and yes, don't locktite the lock screw and don't turn the other screws with the lock screw done up.

good news is your barrel is not TiN coated so at least it should be easy to ream...

it's likely just the different between fractional and decimal measurement. as you point out it should be 0.6875 but often the barrels are oversize. it's certainly better than having them underside! as you likely know (but some don't) the die sets generally have a tension adjustment on them which will set how deeply they cut threads too, that also has an impact on thread engagement/fit of comp to barrel.

he wants to shoot 3 gun and and occasional USPSA match for practice. in that case 9mm is the better choice. cheaper for factory ammo, more capacity per magazine and very soft to shoot. yes he has a disadvantage of minor scoring in sups but he seems happy enough with that. I think the DVC 3 gun, HP edge or a CK arms thunder or hardcore would all be good choices and all similar money.

bear in mind if they are the crimped 126mm mags that they use a single stack type mag spring so you may have difficulty mating that spring to some aftermarket followers. many have different ways of attaching to the spring. from what I've seen the crimped 10 round STI mags run pretty well. The do operate like a single stack mag so particularly in 9mm you can get some 'nose down' action on the top round as that's just how they stack. one thing you can do is run a slightly deeper based like a double alpha pad. it should give you some extra room without adding a +1 capacity since they are single stack type mags. with double stack mags springs and followers are a good idea. on the crimped double stacks they seem to run with stock springs and followers.

Thanks for that tip. great info. I have a fair load of SC but if I could get new TJ for reasonable $$ I would give it a crack. knowing to look for it I can see the different angle on the above pic. lol, yes I'm sure starline 38TJ sales aren't what's keeping Todd in the style to which he's accustomed.

um yeah I was going to say you know they only come out (and go in) one way. with muzzle away from you the pin will come out the left side of the gun. re-insert from that same side. same goes for the hammer pin. they both have a small head on them (and a corresponding recess in the frame hole) so that they are retained by the left side safety. this is so that if you were running a single sided safety they won't walk out. it also allows the ambi safety designs where the right safety just has a thin 'leg' that doesn't cover the pin at all times.

17lb hammer spring is pretty safe. 15 works for me too but I like a bit more pressure on the hammer.

The steel grip does make it a apples/oranges comparison though. CK do offer a stippled plastic grip (same as DVC) and that model costs within about $50 of a DVC (price of both guns at same supplier). I agree the test firing thing as a a reason for your malfunctions isn't exactly kosher. I tend to wonder actually sometimes whether all guns are test fired or not. To the point in your later post about providing load data. Even though you clearly won't be loading 9 major there are still a massive range of loads for 9mm. consider factory loads which come with everything from 115gn to 147gn with shapes from RN FMJ, HP and a range of OAL. Then we have handholds where some go as light as 90gn for steel challenge and in USPSA some shoot 160gn or even bigger in 9mm minor. coated lead, jacketed, plated, different brass. powder from super fast to medium burn rates. loads from 100PF right up to 140pf or possibly more in a 'self defence' load. OAL's from as short as 1.080 right out to 1.165 or more. I'm not sure if SVI actually provide a load but I do know they recommend people use 3N38 in their IMM open guns. I think the variety of loads is probably a lot to do with why some people get a gun from a builder that runs from shot #1 and others need some tuning/adjustment. Sometimes there truly IS some problem with a component on the gun (ejector, extractor are pretty common issues that need attention). I completely agree the gun SHOULD run (but it's hard to guarantee it will with all loads) and that if it doesn't run with your particular load the builder needs to make it run. That is most definitely within scope.

Looks to me like the gr is caught against the comp stopping it moving back. If you can: try and push the barrel back down into the slide. You may have to push the guiderod forward a little as you do it. Once the barrel is back in the slide properly the guide rod should be free. Then an you can stick a paperc lip in the hole in the gr then remove the gr. remove the reverse plug. Then pull the barrel out through the front of the slide. Youre not the first to get stuck!