MemphisMechanic

I believe it. My CMMG 16” barrel has been turned down until it shed 8oz of weight on the muzzle half, and cut down to 13.5” for a pin & weld to hit 16.25” total. It’s much lighter up front, and it made a huge difference in how the gun swings. Having NOTHING out there has got to be even better.

@MoRivera The only things that you need to pay special attention to are (1) replacing CMMG’s underpowered extractor spring when it wears out in a few thousand rounds and (2) getting the magazine height dialed in for your lower and choice of magazine. My gun could not run more flawlessly with OEM Glock mags, but if I tried to run ETS mags I’d break the feed lips off. This is simply a function of using a traditional “toothed gear” AR style bolt with a handgun magazine that’s got narrower feedlips than a 5.56 mag. Mags with all-plastic feedlips are wider than OEM ones with different height to the lips. So I elected to set my gun up to run with the most reliable option. That said? this is mostly due to my choice in aftermarket lower which holds the magazine differently than CMMG designed the bolt & barrel for. Other than that, make sure your ejection port is large and find a buffer & spring combination your gun likes. That should be it.

@TonytheTiger. There you go @usmc1974, he’s officially been paged.

3.25-3.3 titegroup should make 135-138 powerfactor. 2.8 might barely make minor with that full-length barrel. 3.0-3.1 will be 128-132 in most guns.

We give you tons of the same reasons every time this topic comes up. For very good reasons - they’re likely. And in 9mm most of us get ..005” to .010” variation, so it comes up often. This is is normal. But here’s the thing: the press is seating off the ogive of the bullet, not it’s tip. And various brands of brass will accept it slightly differently. I’ve seen variations of .008 to .010 with every brand of plated, coated, and FMJ I’ve ever loaded. And I’ve used over a dozen. Then recently... I worked up a batch of 124 XTP hollowpoints. I measured thirty of them because I couldn’t believe they held .002”. Every single bullet was 1.130 to 1.132 which is fascinating since swapping in a coated 124 got me .010 again. The coated ones vary slightly in shape and the JHPs don’t. But what matters is consistent case volume, not consistent distance from base to tip. Aparently you’re still seeing that, because the coated bullets only shot a group 0.5” bigger at 20yds than the high end JHPs. And the standard deviations across a chronograph were identical. So don’t worry about it! Go shoot your ammo. If It groups well, why would you care if it varies in length?

This. I run Everglades plated bullets in my PCC and it never leaves more than easily cleaned gunpowder residue in my comp. Even running titegroup and other filthy powders worked fine. FMJ and coated bullets? They packed it with a concrete-like mass I had to grind out. A soak in kroil and other common techniques to clean compensators wouldn’t touch it.

@kneelingatlas absolutely not! Someone off of a cz forum created it and posted it here. I wish I could remember who. I’d edit the photo with their username to credit it.

First they hype a new ultralight barrel along the lines of what everyone from Taccom to MBX was offering. Then they try to con you into paying extra to put that weight right back on.

Quite happy with the TTI +10 lightweight ones. More than enough capacity for USPSA matches.

I have 5,000 or so through a PPQ which has been direct milled for a DPP. Pins are used. The optic fits so tightly into the groove in the slide that it’s press-fit. This is the third gun this DPP has been on. It’s got at least 10-15k on it. Not one issue, just goes and goes. I’ve seen so many guys have issues with the bolts mounting their MOS/CORE/etc plate come loose, or the bolts holding the optic down to the plate. With the optic fitted to the notch so precisely, my bolts se vastly lower load. Never ever had an issue.

@1911luvr makes a reamer that will cut it. I do glock barrels sometimes for friends, too.

@Chopaka a case gauge Will not help you. EVERY single time you change bullets, you need to load dummy rounds with them. Conduct a plunk and spin test with the barrel of all guns you plan to shoot it through. (If it doesn’t plunk in effortlessly, spin in the chamber freely, and fall out when flipped over? It’s too long. That is what “plunk and spin” means.) Shorten your dummy rounds up until they clear. It isn’t uncommon for a gun like a 9mm CZ-75 to take a certain 125 jacketed at 1.140” but need you to load a coated or hollowpoint 124gr as short as 1.080”. The charts above explain why. As you noticed. My approach was lazier. I’ve cut the throat of all of my 9mm guns to take even the most troublesome bullets out to 1.150”. I know I can load long without doing any checking.

I’ve never seen a polymer framed Tanfo in person, sorry. @waktasz or @johnbu may have messes with them. I think.

Mine shoots 1.5” at 25yd with a 124gr precision delta JHP running around 140pf. Benched in. With a 4x scope. All the ammo I typically run through it for my USPSA use? That’s more like a 3-4” and is all I need at my local matches. It doesn’t make sense to pay the premium for that bullet for 97% of the shots you take with a rifle in a USPSA match. <edit> oops, Hollowpoint, not fmj.

Yes. I find gravel to be the preferred medium. Worn guns are sexy guns.

Same here. Vibraprime or handpicked, neverhave upside down primers in my 1050 and I have no issues with it priming, its definitely the one thing that never messes up. If in doubt, pull it and replace the magazine’s feed tip. They wear out before they look worn out.

I did another one this weekend. This was my production 5” PPQ M2 with the factory trigger in it. Set your calipers to .194” and use them to scribe a line down the sear housing, dragging the other jaw along the outside edge. This is the perfect place to drill and tap for a 6-32 x 3/16” setscrew.

This is one gun I see no need for an autoforward on... The slide stop is literally a mile long. Big hands, small hands, people dropping the release with their weak thumb? It works for pretty much everyone. I want 1911s and Tanfoglios and similar guns to auto-forward because manipulating the slide release is tedious at speed. On a PPQ it couldn’t be more consistent. Or easier.

There’s an election coming up, which always leads to hoarding now. Obama’s election caused a 1.5+ year shortage of primers and powder from guys predicting a total ban, and causing a panic. Then add the “disaster preparedness” factor we have going on right now? It’s going to be a while, I fear.

Interesting to hear that they’re changing angles on the both teeth and such. I didn’t know that. Then again, my gun is now extremely reliable and also the only Guard rifle I’ve ever seen in person. I haven’t had to get involved with their tech support. I just fed it a 124 JHP defensive load I was working up. Went 1,420 FPS for 176 power factor. It just felt *slightly* hotter than the usual ammo I feed it, which was pretty awesome to discover. That round is a handful in handguns. Then had my fianceé run a hodgepodge of every leftover bullet I’ve loaded for 3 years which marginally failed the case gauge and got dumped in a “practice only” bin. 124 power factor LRN, coated TC, 147 FMJs at 140pf... it ate them all flawlessly with slightly mis-sized brass and OALs and powerfactors all over the map. I’m *finally* really happy with the rifle. After a year of tuning & troubleshooting the build.

Leave them in the press. Three months sitting in the press in a damp garage all winter? They still go bang just fine, year after year. I used to strip all components out of my machine each time. Nowdays primer and powder live in it for weeks or months without any concern from me.

How long are you currently loading? Shorten the round ridiculously (Something like 1.090”) and see if they spin. Is this the exact same box of bullets, or did you just open a fresh case? Is the bullet the exact same OD and weight as the previous 5,000 of them or is it .001” wider or something?

@Chili @avastcosmicarena Noted. A bracket which can be mounted from above or below, and a separate model which wall mounts... that would appear to be the ticket to make sure it works for everyone.

Load that AK-47 with pebbles, son!!!

@DJRyan13 ahh of course! Autodriven press guys would want a solution that moves with the press / casefeed assembly. Entirely logical. Thank you. I’m definitely curious to find out how many guys with manual presses will want it on a stand/post versus mounted to a wall.