MemphisMechanic

You have the forward lean right. But stagger your feet: move the weak side foot forward six inches or so, then look down and bend at the knee until you can’t see the toes of that foot. Boom: forward stance with much more stability. Most of us in A-class or so? We’re now fighting to learn to bend our knees more and shoot & move from a lower stance. For entries, exits, and shooting on the move? A slightly uncomfortable amount of bend in the knees is a good thing. Might as well work on a low, forward stance right off the bat.

There really isn’t a need to choose a gun based on it’s factory mag capacity. The PPQ only holds fifteen from the factory, but setting them up to hold 23 rounds while still reloading with as little effort as a factory magazine is not very hard. You have the same ~140mm to work with, so they all all top out at 23-24 rounds.

Looks better than my first video would have. Work on gaining speed with all of the above advice! Two things to keep in mind for match days: (1) Most guys wait for the beep to finish then react to it.. An easy gain of 0.2 seconds is to simply try to get your hand to the gun before the beep tone finishes, which makes you work on reacting fast. (That beep is 0.3 seconds long on many timers) (2) Always do a 100% speed draw. If the first target is a very long 30 yard shot, many guys will perform a slow draw, and only hammer high speed when the first target is close. Get the gun up and out as quickly as you can. The additional time to refine the sight picture occurs after the gun is presented.

Using one shot lube with both the 1050 and 650... the 1050 requires noticeably less force and my tendonitis in the right elbow doesn’t flare up the next day.

We’ll get you squared away. A gun like an SP-01 with a non-hardened barrel... nearly any shop or gunsmith can ream. But I’m always more than happy to help Enos guys out.

Correct. You will not need to bring a timer, the staff will use ones they’re familiar with and which the club owns.

Yeah, well this was a basic Prusa with one color, I simply inserted a command to stop for me to eject and swap in a new filament between layers.

@two shoes this was one extruder: you simply change filaments when prompted by the printer and it continues working!

I’m using Fusion360 which is a good bit more powerful and very easy to learn, and a Prusa Mk3S I built from a kit last week. I have a few unique ideas for 3D printed Dillon accessories forthcoming. My wife and I are going to be building an Etsy store and buying an Enos vendor space for them, as a matter of fact.

You weren’t joking. Wow. I’ve gone to great lengths to increase my bench’s rigidity over the years. The current one is welded 1” square tubing and it’s bolted into the studs in the wall. I can’t imagine loading on a machine that sloppy.

Agree... to disagree. I thought that for years with my behemoth bench, which featured a solid 1.5” top and the entire structure framed with diagonally braced 4x4s. Then I lagged it into the studs of the wall and saw a noticeable increase in rigidity and ammo quality. Your bench isn’t still enough if your casefeeder is swaying. The ability to provide that while cranking the press back and forth with an 18” prybar comes from a bench that’s built like a railroad bridge.

It’s on wheels. Instant fail as far as suitability.

Just remember, you want your 9mm rounds curvy, just like your women. .40 .45 and most other handgun calibers don’t show this because the walls are vertical, not tapered inward toward the top like a 9x19. In Luger this is a normal thing. If it passes a case gauge it’s good to go.

Click the arrow at the top right of that link.

Why on earth did they put a factory style +2 on the Glock mag? I have never seen anyone run that basepad.

@JatCarver you are at least using a 100-round shockbottle case gauge, right? Those things are mandatory regardless of which press you reload on.

Primer slide mechanism. The pawl / lever under the shellplate at the back of the press. These show wear the fastest... I think.

Tried the Sevigny sights? I like them even better. But yes. A quality set of sights is mandatory and the Dawsons are great too.

The entire point of such extreme penalties is to make all of us much better at handling a weapon than 99% of casual shooters who visit your local gun range... and who somewhat terrify me with their gunhandling. It works. We don’t need to be nice to avoid hurting tender feels. This isn’t a place to find coddling acceptance. You’re handling a weapon capable of killing a good friend of yours if your finger bumps a 1.5 pound Open gun trigger at the wrong time - and does so just once in your entire life. I want you to be terrified of breaking the 180.001 when you turn around and sprint uprange toward me while running as fast as you can. Measures are the perfect amount of harsh.

The blade tech teck-lok hole pattern will let you install any USPSA hanger onto it, like the BOSS or the Red Hill / Springer. Just fyi.

They’re loding for Open with a 5” 1911 barrel and a comp, I’d expect. Just be aware than Major 9mm loads are significantly over book, and very much in +P+ territory. Pursue at your own risk. Profession driver, closed course, etc. In a gun as light as the Glock 19 you mentioned early on, a somewhat more conservative load might be wise. 1500 fps in a 30ish oz gun would be... a handful. I loaded some 124 JHPs to 1,230 FPS with Longshot, and those shot just like store bought defensive ammo at mid-150s power factor. A little loud and a little more recoil than plinking ammo, but hardly a huge change you’d need to work hard to get used to.

Then you’re good to go. WAC, power pistol, AA#7, and Blue Dot are all solid choices for fast defensive-type ammo in 9m under a JHP.

You can attack the same problem from different directions. What I was suggesting was to get used to looking at the target. While shredding it with two quick shots from the holster without a sighting mechanism. Then repeat with the optic on, and just let the dot exist inside the glass while you maintain the same visual focus. But don’t focus on it, and don’t let it slow you down. Looking at the dot as it wanders around on the background, steering it until it is is in the A-zone just like you’d do with a front sight? That is a more precise description of the focus problem. The solution is to learn how to focus on the target’s center and let your body bring the dot to point on which you’re focused. The above seemed to be a worthwhile first step for me.

Oh, one more thing. Shoot things close and fast (5 yard or even less) with the dot turned off. You don’t need more than a crush grip and solid index to shoot a clean double tap or bill drill at that distance. Get a feel for what you’re capable of, then turn the dot on and try it again. Without slowing down... and without losing the target focus you automatically have 100% of the time when the gun has no sights.

Sounds like something my experience fully agrees with. But then, he’s not exactly short on shooting knowledge.