MemphisMechanic

A friend with a 3D printer and I have begun collaborating. The current thinking is to make this easy to mount on a shelf, or slap a cheap 90* bracket on your wall and have it wall-mounted. A quick first look at a potential design for the attachment to the MBF, with cutout for the motor and wiring... and easy angle adjustments:

Install the BCM spring by itself. No O-ring nor rubber stud needed. You’ll probably find it helpful to use a C-clamp or pair of smooth jaw channel locks to compress that ultra stiff spring.

@Intheshaw1 that’s also why Chad Reilly has two exercises that work the extensors in the forearms, and two which work the flexors. Doing these daily got rid of my tendonitis issues in the elbow. Doing them twice a week keeps that pain away entirely.

There’s some guy out there named Nils who does rather well with a factory weight Canik. People made GM regularly with plastic guns and won big matches with them long before metal guns came into fashion. And if you look... they still do. Shoot what makes you happy. Metal. Plastic. All good.

I can’t believe so many of you can casually discuss having multiple wheelgunners consistently running them at your matches. I’ll see one lone revo shooter a few times a year. Maybe.

Go with the RI one. Multiple light sources all around the toolhead means no shadows. The ILF’s single light isn’t as even or helpful beyond looking at the powder charge.

If it’s mild steel, mail it to me. I’ll get it turned to the OD you need.

I guess it won’t be your CO grip now, according to @C_Tanner’s post! Damn. But not unexpected.

I’m looking at designing an easy to produce system to mount the MrBulletFeeder collator to the wall above the reloading bench. With your machine, how far is the collator away from the wall? Is that where you want it, or would you want a little more space between casefeeder and the MBF? How deep is your reloading bench, from wall to front edge?

You can also stretch the spring’s midsection slightly. The main reason you hear so much about tuning the MBF and return spring is the fact that so many of us run them on a Dillon 1050. Setting it up on a LnL or my old XL650? Easy. On the 1050 the shellplate is static, and the toolhead moves up and down. That makes it more work to find a position where the spring isn’t pulled tight at the bottom OR sagging on the upstroke, causing bullets to collect in the middle. Here’s mine running: The additional spring makes tuning easier because the dropper won’t stick open if the MBF is putting the slightest tug on it anymore.

I’d do $10-20 a year in order to be able to access the classifieds, and to delete the banner ads that everyone who elects to browse for free will be seeing. (I voted banner ads, btw.) I’ve been negligent in kick Brian some money for the sales and purchases I’ve done well on, recently. Sending him a few $$$ shortly.

Switch to live ammo. They’ll keep their distance. Don’t forget to add your ear pro for this style of dryfire.

It was a great powder. I still have an unopened 8 pound jug of it I will use someday. But as stated… You really have to start at minimum and work your way up each time you open a new bottle. You never know exactly what density or burn rate you’re going to get. I never loaded 115 grain with it, but the loads I did work up are shown in the table below.

I’m going to look into fabricating a run of wall mounts for the MBF. We’ll see if I hit upon something worth making a few dozen of.

USPSA, do whatever you want to the slide. No 80% lowers permitted: Firearm manufacturer must be on the Production list. (So no 1911 or other single action firearms either.) IDPA permits milled slides. Do not know about 80% frames.

The thing about gripping hard during a match is that it doesn’t require THAT much endurance: Even a long field course is perhaps 20-30 seconds total, half of which is “relax the grip while moving, loading, etc.” So you squeeze for five seconds here, run over there, and repeat. The trick to gripping hard is... that you have learn do it via dryfire. It has to be instinctive to crush down on the gun as the slide comes up into your vision and you prep for the first shot, and stay forearm-burningly tight until you break the gun down and move to the next positions. Which means when you’re dryfiring... it will wear you out heavily at first. Which is a good thing: it’s uncomfortable, but all exercises which build strength are. Before long you’ll find it completely sustainable. Always make sure to grip the gun as hard as you should when dryfiring: I am the poster child for building bad habits with dryfire back in the B-class days. Chief among them were a relaxed grip since I knew the gun wasn’t going to go off, and transitioning the gun to an imprecise spot on the targets just to stay ahead of the par time.

Right now I’m very glad I can load about 15k rounds of 9mm without leaving my house for anything. But I sure do wish I’d grabbed more primers. I have the bullets and powder to load another 20k rounds.

Regarding the weak hand, coming from a novice? Harder. If you were shaking someone’s hand, you need them to be cringing. If your forearm isn’t burning from the force exerted, you’re leaving performance on the table. Cha-lee is good. Very, very good. (See below) And he grips the gun harder than almost anyone. Get him a video and let him help:

First, it’s a weak hand issue 90% of the time. Second, you filmed from the one angle that shows us nothing of what the weak hand is doing.

Regarding the table, let me save you some time: I had a massive workbench I’d built with 4x4 lumber for the legs. With very large diagonal braces. Performance of my press improved noticeably when I lagged that 250lb bench into the wall studs. Rigidity is a must: you’re basically using an 18” prybar to drive the press back and forth with most of your body weight behind it. That said... I sold that bench to save space and I’m currently loading on this. For three years it was in a closet with a 650 on it, which worked exceptionally well. (I sold the 650 and upgraded to a Super 1050.) I built this with 3/4” square welded steel tubing, but could easily be constructed from 2x4s. Two legs in the front. Two screws anchored into the wall studs in back. 24” x 20” and far more rigid than my old table. The top is a piece of 3/4” oak from home depot meant to be the top of a stair in a hardwood stair case. It was cheap and with a coat of polyurethane, works great!

Also I think you’re up to the same thing I’m up to. I’ve got 600 total rounds to load with 147 and 124 JHPs for “rainy day” ammo. I’ll be running longshot in mine, simply because it’s the only slower-burn powder I have on hand. We won’t talk about charge weight. +P stuff is something I tend to leave off the internet.

A7 and Blue Dot are fairly slow burning. Use them until whatever stash you have onhand is depleted, then switch to something like N320 or Sport Pistol or the like. When any of us can find powder again after the covid-panic, that is.

If they sell guns which have a defensive purpose or reloading components, that particular vendor is doing rather well right now... So some of them are hurting badly I’m sure. But certainly not all of them.

A plated bullet has a thinner/softer copper coating than the jacket on an FMJ. This means that it conforms to the rifling and seals the bore more quickly. Less of the gas escapes around and in front of the bullet, so it’s more efficient. If you use the same powder charge, bare lead bullets are the fastest, then coated and plated, and finally jacketed projectiles. Between brands of FMJ or JHP you can also see noticeable differences in velocity. For instance, among the American practical shooting bullet manufacturers? A Montana Gold FMJ is slower than a Precision Delta. Presumably, the PD has a slightly softer copper jacket.

My gut says call your credit card company and reverse the charges. Did the require any form of contact to provide your FFL information before “shipping” became the order status?