MemphisMechanic

This. With DA/SA, you draw with a DA pull. Then release the trigger to the single action travel length and work it back and for each sucessive shot

The old one has a chance in hell of running, and may have been built back when STI made their name on decent quality guns. I’d wager 3 new guns out of 4 go back to the mothership for warranty work within 6 months, and none of them will probably live to 50k rounds without replacing a major part. If your local range has a few guys who’ve bought DVCs or Staccatos, you’ve seen the same thing. I’m sure other can back me up.

On the other hand, if I carry polymer guns daily then I’ll keep running a similar mechanism in my competition guns. You’ll shoot the same score with either platform given equal levels of practice, so it really doesn’t matter which one you ultimately choose. It’s all just shooting what you personally enjoy.

@IHAVEGAS that’s definitely true. After years shooting polymer guns, and with a strong desire to keep shooting them well? I never liked the fully-decked Tanfo’s complete lack of travel as weight was added to the trigger for a precise shot. Nor did I care for the ultralight return forward. This one is purely a preference thing.

@RGC because triggers in general don’t matter as much as people think, and as I said, the worst thing I did to my Tanfo was turn it into a gorgeous 1911 trigger. I prefer they creep as weight is added between the wall and the break. I don’t want it to stack, but I prefer guns that roll back linearly as your pull progresses. Factory Tanfos have really good triggers with a respring and a LOT of polishing. In other words? Personal preference.

See here for instructions on increasing hammer travel with the bolo. Before doing this, degrease the gun and coat the ramp in the frame with a sharpie and dryfire it in DA a few dozen times: If your disconnector isn’t rubbing it, the adjustment will gain you nothing. This dimension varies widely from gun to gun. I’d also recommend doing the same for the half-cock notch and the firing pin block and firing pin. If your sear is contacting the half-cock notch on the hammer, or your firing pin is making contact with the safety block... you need to remedy those issues first.

<bump!> Putting this back at the top for a few guys with new Tanfos who might want to look at it. The interesting stuff is on pages 1 and 2.

Correct. But mostly, as I said above? I prefer a bit of a rolling break. I found I didn’t like the 2011-like trigger which a lot of guys are after. I shoot polymer guns too much. If you want your SA to behave like a good 1911/2011 then the titan/bolo combination is a good choice and you should buy the Patriot stuff. ...Just know that primer seating depth is very important. IMO, a 1050 is the way to go for Tanfos. Mine buries CCI primers in consistently swaged pockets .005”-.009” below flush. I used to obsessively check my primers when running ammo through the hundo case gauge after it came out of my 650. Now I barely glance at them, save to check for flipped primers. (It also helps that I’m running a Walther Q5 with the factory striker spring, which lights off anything.)

The extreme interruptor / disconnector is the same as the factory one. Just like the sear and the sear cage. The only difference is the finish. For years, IPSC competitiors were forbidden from polishing internals. Xtreme parts have a silver-ish finish that is much smoother than the black coating ours get... and their finish just might happen to hide a little polishing if it happens to occur. If I were to build another tanfo, it’d get a full workup of good springs, and a single piece sear. However the trigger, hammer, and disco would be left alone. Incidentally enough, that’s the setup that many of the guys winning major matches with one happen to be running.

the Tanfo spring is half the length of the CZ; CZs have a much better design to hammer/strut/spring when it comes to chasing lighter pull weights. With a Tanfoglio the biggest frustration is owning an otherwise terrific Dillon 650 reloding press. They simply will not seat primers to a consistent depth, and you’ll need several extra pounds of hammer spring. I also won’t run a bolo and titan combination in any Tanfo I own anymore. For the minor increase in trigger sexiness, you lose a considerable amount of hanmer travel versus the stock components in double action. It’s dramatic enough that you can easily see the difference with your naked eye. They don’t hit as hard without a modification to restore the hammer travel. (Primarily, I wish I hadn’t gone titan/bolo because it causes the trigger to shatter like glass with zero creep. It’s a 1911. I prefer a gun with a rollling break like most polyer guns, consistently moving rearward as you add weight.)

Much better!

@titandriver there are a lot of alloys of tungsten out there. I had a hunch they chose something softer and easier to machine. Occasionally people complain about their tungsten guide rods gouging or wearing down after a few thousand reps of the recoil spring scrubbing up and down it. That wouldn’t make sense if it were a high grade tungsten carbide, which is what machine tools are frequnently made of. It’s a pain to machine, but you could probably grind a recoil spring all the way down to dust without doing more than dulling it’s finish.

Clearly, You don’t shoot with the right friends.

The first thing I’d try would be to speed them up to ~137-140 power factor and see if groups tighten up. Oftentimes they will, but not always. Once you know that, work to preserve that level of accuracy through PF tweaks, OAL, etc while shooting at slower speeds.

Were you able to actually drill it, or did you *grind* the depression into the center of the head? Drilling a quality tungsten carbide alloy without something diamond-tipped is not going to turn out well.

Passing along a good price I found on the Gun Deals subreddit:

Okay. Not a great application then. Thanks!

Can you give me more detail on this one? Sounds like a problem that could be solved with a 3D printed version of an adapter in some tough plastic.

Clean Shot is a step up from titegroup. ( Pretty much nothing short of a powder like Clays fills less of the case than titegroup.) Clean shot would be worth it just for the upgrade in cleanliness. You’ll see a dramatic reduction in nastiness of your firearms by switching. ESPECIALLY if you ever shoot coated bullets.

It’s called lawyer speak. They can’t publicly admit they make the propellant specifically to load 9mm +p+ Hand Grenade with.

@chipsher you tried an extra power BCM-style extractor spring in the gun, I’m sure?

Sorry. Big differnce. The rest of us see it.

In general... if your thighs aren’t burning, you aren’t as low as you could be. And probably should be. If your hands and forearms aren’t burning from gripping the gun, you’re similarly leaving quite a bit of recoil control on the table. Until your muscles grow used to the effort, dryfire practice should pretty much destroy your forearms in 10 minutes or less. If not, grip harder. (See the GM’s reply above mine, with his enthusiastic agreement.)

It wasn’t a bad gun. But there are other options with superior ergonomics, etc now.

Fully agree. I’d switch to the SIG P-series, but I’ll likely never own another M&P. Just a preference thing, and having an M&P 9L for eight years, it’s a well-informed preference.