Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

rooster

Classifieds
  • Content Count

    787
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rooster

  • Rank
    Calls Shots
  • Birthday 01/07/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    tampa,florida
  • Interests
    shooting
  • Real Name
    charles hodgdon

Recent Profile Visitors

1,825 profile views
  1. The Dillon dies are fine, but they tend to leave a wasp shape, which I don’t care for. I know it helps with setback, but the Redding gets down just as far and no wasp shape. When I was using the dillon I ground down the base of the die even with the carbide ring to get down even further to remove the bell which happens when fired in unsupported chambers.
  2. In 9mm your going to have as much as +or- 10 thou. You can cut that down quite a bit by loading same headstamp. Another problem is that your seat dies work off the ogive of the bullet. Because of the variation in the bullets themselves your not seating off the same place on the bullet everytime,, however the part of the bullet in the case is pretty close. If you were to seat off the bullet tip then your oal would be spot on, but you length of bullet in the case would vary. Jacketed bullets are going have the least variation, but I have measured them and they are off also. It’s all a combination of variables that you as the reloader have no control over. Just load and shoot.
  3. I had the same experience in 9mm, there was no neck tension. My bullets literally fell inside the cases. I went back to my Redding and everything was back to normal. I have used Dillon, and the Lee u die, the Redding titanium carbide die is the best resizing die I have used to date. When I case gauge I might get 2 rounds out of a hundred that won’t pass.
  4. Is the connector adjusted properly? The cam on the slide must push the connector hook over enough to let the trigger bar pop up so it can engage the firing pin lug. You should be able to slip a piece of paper between the connector and trigger housing.
  5. The early rods fit a round wire spring. The rods that he’s selling now take ISMI which are flat wire. Most people run a 13 lb spring.
  6. rooster

    Ghost Connector

    Johnny Glock is a freaking ocd animal on Glock triggers. I have learned so much from his videos. He should charge money for all the info he gives out for free. Try the dot connector, has a pretty good wall and a very good let off.
  7. rooster

    Ghost Connector

    I have measured and drawn and copied the TTI against the minus and could see no difference. Taran uses some kind of finish on them. However they break a little further back than the minus. It is definitely a rolling break with a slight wall. When they first came out I sent one back as it almost ran out of travel before it broke. But they are fine now. It’s all geometry, as the angle goes more to horizontal the pull lessens, but the travel is longer. As the angle goes more vertical the pull raises, shorter distance and it breaks cleaner.
  8. The trick is to find a gauge that is smaller than your barrels chamber. So if a round sits proud in your gauge and fits your barrel you know your good. What I have learned is to use a maximum cartridge gauge, instead of a gauge that is cut to minimum chamber dimensions. If your barrel is cut to minimum chamber dimensions, those dimensions are larger than a maximum case gauge dimensions. So any round that passes a maximum case gauge has to fit in a minimum cut chamber.
  9. Sorry didn’t see that you were shooting open. Might not be able to shoot coated.
  10. Buy coated and save your jacketed. I just got 2 orders from D&G. Pretty fast shipping considering all the happening these days.
  11. Yes, good catch. Flair should be .385-.388
  12. rooster

    Ghost Connector

    Tried about every major manufacturer of connectors there is. When it comes to connectors Glock has their s—-t together. A good polish job and their minus, or dot connector cannot be beat. The only other connector that’s as good is the TTI. Change the safety plunger spring, and polish the trigger bar, change the striker spring to a 4.5 lb. and your good to go. The minus will give you a rolling break, the dot a nice crisp break that is not as heavy as the 5.5.
  13. I have gone through 2s3f, 3 Barsto, and 2 KKM‘s. For me they were all no better than oem. I decided to try one more time after reading how barrels were made. I read where button rifling was the preferred method of rifling match grade rifle barrels. Of all the barrel making companies only KKM and a new kid on the block rifled barrels using this method. KKM does 1in16 twist, Faxon a maker of AR barrels does the traditional 1in10. Their barrels are also salt bath nitrided. I bought one and I can tell you straight out that it is more accurate than stock. Another plus is it’s as reliable as stock. I have over 3k through it and not one failure. The only negative that I have come across is the chamber is real short. The longest bullet so far has been the Blue Bullet TC. I can load that out to 1.115, everything else is around 1.085, to 1.070. I say for most shooters stay with stock until you are sure that you should move on to a aftermarket barrel. Inside of 15 yards the stock barrel will be fine. From 15 on out is where the aftermarket market will start to out do stock.
  14. I have a 550 so this might not pertain to you. Set it up just like you would any other funnel. It’s just longer. The 5 turns is just a starting point. You want the powder bar to travel it’s full extension, and the case flair should be good at .585 to about .588 for 9mm. Enough to set the bullet in place. What I do is over flair the case then run just the case in your seat die. Measure the flair again, then set your funnel to a few thou. over that. Doing this keeps the case straight because it’s contacting the die wall on the way to accept the bullet. The alpha dropper is a great improvement over the mbf, I get no stick at all, it worth every penny.
×
×
  • Create New...