MemphisMechanic

@GDIS46 he’s mounted an inexpensive backup camera on his press which is aimed into the case to verify the powder drop. On the 1050 it’s *really* hard to see into that case.

You’re thinking correctly. Start at 10% under max and let a chronograph be your guide.

Crimped primer pockets and really tight ones in foreign brass were the reasons I upgraded to a 1050 when I exclusively load 9mm. Superior depriming, swaging, and a user-adjustable priming system? That was it. No matter the brass, I consistently have CCI primers seated .007-.009” below flush and they run flawlessly in hammer fired guns. I had all kinds of headaches with Tanfoglios with light springs with my 650. Now I barely bother to inspect primers when case gauging my ammo. They’re always perfectly seated.

Thanks for the tip!!

I’ve never found that to be the case. Group sizes in everything I’ve reamed have been the same before and after. And your statement depends GREATLY upon which round nose bullet you use. Plenty of bulbous 124 and 147 coated bullets in .356 will still have you loading down around 1.0090-1.110” while other might get you out to 1.130” See below:

@Pinka you can also have the throat extended with a carbide reamer (since Shadow 2 barrels are hardened) if desired. I bought one specifically to allow me to load to 1.150” with any bullet profile in my Walthers, which have similarly short chambers. I’ve done a few Shadow 2s and P-10s for buddies who got tired of loading short just so the ammo will run in their CZs, too.

Anyone broken one yet? Have seen multiple reports of SROs breaking on insta, and it was mentioned a few episodes back on the hit factor podcast. Seems like they are roughly as reliable as all the other dots when used by guys who train hard and burn through a lot of rounds. Which means a backup optic is a good idea.

Much like Production, IDPA isn’t *actually* populated by guns that people carry. In SSP, the Glock 34 is the most commonly seen gun. @Von your gun is 100% good to go. You want three magazines, a good stiff quality belt, two magazine pouches, a straight-drop hip holster, and a nice stiff jacket or vest to conceal the gear. https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Blade-Tech-Single-Mag-Pouch-BLACK-RIGHT-P129.aspx https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Shooters-Connection-CarryIDPA-Belt-P3992.aspx https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Safariland-Open-Top-Concealment-Belt-Slide-Holster-Model-5196-Right-hand-P5140.aspx This is one example of a combination of gear that will set you up nicely, at a good price point too. Ready Tactical, comp-tac, bladetech, and Safariland gear are all common at IDPA matches. Each offers any or all of the required gear.

AKA, no Taran Tactical guncandy model, with her belt chilling atop a pair of leggings.

Everglades plated bullets leave absolutely no residue in your comp. Coated bullets left me grinding a cement-like cake out of my compensator with a dremel, which I am not eager to repeat. Granted I found a very clean combination of bullet and powder, but after 2,000ish rounds the ports were roughly half of their original size!

@Shep, If in doubt, set it to .378 with a pair of calipers like @HesedTech suggested. I’ve found that to work well on pretty much everything. The way to verify it as a good setting is to pull a bullet. Particularly with coated or plated it is important to have two things present: 1. A very light mark where the case mouth was, or none. You shouldn’t be able to catch your fingernail on it. 2. The bullet should measure the same diameter both above and below the place where the rim was crimped. Also. Keep in mind that 9mm brass varies from roughly .010 to .014 at the case mouth. Some brands will be getting crimped more than others. You’ll notice some variation.

Is your PCC compensated? If so, restrict yourself to plated or JHP bullets unless you do not mind grinding cement-like lead deposits out of it’s ports regularly. Ask me how I know. Also, your OAL is going to be determined by the contour of the bullet you choose. The same (short) chamber might take a certain 124gr fmj out to 1.150+ and yet fail to feed a round nosed 124gr any longer than 1.110”

If you get the inside of the cases clean a bad sticking issue is always a problem. Try it without the pins and reduce your Case tumbling regimen until there’s still some carbon inside the cases. It acts like powdered graphite lube and helps greatly to mitigate the sticking. This one is a very well known issue, and you’ll find lots of discussion on it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Spring-Assortment-Kit-84-Pack-13554/203133714?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25H-G-D25H-25_4_BUILDERS_HARDWARE-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-BuildersHardware_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25H-G-D25H-25_4_BUILDERS_HARDWARE-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-BuildersHardware_LIA-71700000044822926-58700004636006010-92700039037730264&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjcfzBRCHARIsAO-1_Op7mjFkMmXJe0rh3plG-wgGAkMFor2CaarQaV5G7pZZZ7x2mAVMLOEaAgu6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds My local store had this in stock.

Correct. Don’t spin it. Just flick it shut with a snap of the strong hand’s wrist... movie style. Particularly advisable if it’s someone else’s high end gun, and you do it in front of them. Edited to further exaggerate sarcasm.

But hilarious.

This. I’d rather scroll past ads than see the resource disappear. I’d also pay $20 a year for the forum. I’ve donated more than that anyway.

1. Polish this funnel until it looks like a mirror. 2. Are you wet tumbling with pins?

Agree with @Balakay. Disassemble and clean the priming system and pop in a new spring every year or so.

Reloadable means they can easily seat with that number of rounds - you don’t have to drive it in with a full force hammer blow. It’s common to have to download many extended magazines by one round so that you can effortlessly insert them (while running) underneath a closed slide. I posted the combination I’m running to get a 23 round walther PPQ / Q5 magazine. This combination clicks into the gun just as easily as an unmodified factory mag:

@B_RAD I just switched over to 147 RN bluebullets from a 125 bayou. It always takes a couple of adjustments to get the collator to weed out those last few flipped bullets. My plan is to mount my phone over top of the collator (it’s 6” below a shelf) and film it dumping bullets into a bucket on high until it messes up. I find you can dial it in really quickly if you can see exactly what’s happening. (Duh, right?) I used to try to weed out these rare inverted bullets while I was loading ammo like most people do. That’s not a great plan.

@MNshooter the rubberbands eventually stretch and dry and crack. I another one last week, so with time at home tonight... it was finally time to fix it for good.

Others have done this. Armanov sells a kit for it. There’s a reason why. I’m finally going hundreds of rounds without a single hiccup. The dropper has roughly triple the downward pressure it used to have, even when it was full, and it never hangs up causing two bullets to drop. Once I tweak the feeder to stop dropping 3-5 bullets in every 100 upside down, it’ll be perfect. The dropper performed perfectly for 700 rounds tonight. It’s never done that before. (search keywords for myself for later: dillon 1050 return spring Mr bulletfeeder dropper assembly)

Short stroking does often increase felt recoil, but that doesn’t mean you should abandon it. As stated above, we’re taking softness entirely out of the equation. That’s not the goal. Adding felt recoil is just fine if the dot flattens out, right? Whether it gets flatter with a given modification will come down to your buffer, spring, the bolt’s weight, you comp, your bullet’s weight & velocity. And a host of other factors. It’s puzzling reading posts where experienced large men are firing a 6 pound handgun from their shoulder, and they’re focused on making the gun shoot more softly. Setting it up to chew one ragged hole as fast as you can work the trigger is what matters. (Note: I’m referring to PCC setup for an experienced competitor. If you’re building the gun for your recoil-shy wife to shoot, as mentioned above? That’s a whole different topic.)