MemphisMechanic

You’ll have fast accurate ammo that is great for defensively-oriented ammo with that combination. Loaded to minimum it will recoil a lot like factory ammo, which is not bad at all. If you want poof poof soft ammo? You’ll need to change powders. I wouldn’t. Load it and practice with it.

Yep. Plain old rubber bands work! The right dumbbell exercises, and 15-25 pound dumbbells on top of them? Works even better. Never have elbow issues again.

When I have issues like this it’s because I’m doing exactly what the years shooting iron sights trained me to do: Find a spot on the target, bring the gun there, pull my focus back to the sight as it arrives in the A-zone. It’s really hard to learn to focus on the targets at speed, but it’s the only way to shoot straight. Dot guns are anti-irons: If you aren’t seeing the holes get punched, then your are looking at the dot, rather than putting the dot on the target. The only fix is to do a lot of live fire until it becomes habit to shoot the wrong way.

Lee set with a U-die and a factory crimp die is a great setup for a 650/750. I very much prefer them to Dillon’s.

More than likely, that bullet mold finally wore out and they phased them out for the grooveless bullet. Many other companies have done so.

All these big benches... I used to load on a massive 24x48 inch table, and it was great. But loading in the garage’s summer heat wasn’t fun. This 20x22” welded steel table with an oak hardwood top has worked out great! I built it to allow me to load inside - in the guest bedroom’s closet. With the shelves positioned next to it, I had plenty of workspace and storage. https://instagram.com/p/Bpi5oGcFe-v/

I was repping the 125 for 5 when I didn’t do any work. Could do 10 on it, or 3 on the 150, when I was using them regularly... But I’m a heavy equipment mechanic by trade. My job itself involved lots of regular grip exercise.

The gun won’t shoot any softer. If anything felt recoil will increase slightly. But, *if* you’ve gotten your buffer weight and recoil spring reasonably well tuned, when you crush the gun back hard against your shoulder like a gorilla and really lean into it? The dot won’t move as much when you’re shooting fast. If your grip, stance, and spring/buffer/ammo tuning isn’t already done... there won’t be much of a difference.

Make sure you polish right here, as highlighted on my instagram page: Get that smooth. Both the spot in the first photo, and the location on the trigger bar shown in the second one when you swipe right. Get the striker block plunger and it’s hole smooth. Smooth the back of the sear hook where it engages the striker, and the lug on the striker which mates to it. Polish the trigger bar surface that engages the striker block. That’s all I do anymore. Disassembly and reassembly of the sear housing/sear/disconnector/etc is such a pain that I used to dab some polishing compound in there and rub them against each other a bunch of times... then clean and oil it. Now? I just shoot it. The gains to be found from polishing inside the sear housing are minimal to none. I put the creep-removal setscrew in there, and otherwise leave them 100% stock and unpolished.

To pull the sear housing all you have to do is remove the rear rollpin and pry the housing gently out of the frame. Wiggle the trigger and disconnect the trigger-bar spring along the way. You can have the sear housing out of the gun in less than a minute. The trigger, bar, and the slide release levers can stay in the frame.

Have you noticed a decline in locap friendliness with the gain in carry optics and PCC shooters? Around here it’s common to run into stages designed by guys who really don’t think about laying things out to be interesting for guns with 6 to 10 rounds in them. Either there are no options (everyone in Prod or SS has to reload in the exact same spots, thereby making us shoot the stage the same way.) Or all of the options suck (multiple flatfooted reloads.) I find myself enjoying carry optics more than production these days, simply because *all* of the stages are enjoyable with the extra capacity.

You’ll end up converting eventually, because the grip required to do it your way isn’t nearly as consistent.. But rather than talk you out of it? Yes. Just order lefthanded mag pouches.

Bullets are the easiest component to find. Try finding primers next.

I’m looking forward to playing with these once my 3D printer arrives in a few weeks. That’ll be fun. Thanks for reminding me about this post, guys.

ProMag. It loads 5 at a time: http://9mmar.com/colt-style-9mm-mag-loader/ And personally I think the MagLula is vastly quicker, and less work to use.

@mikey_golds I get that. I’ve often thought it’d be fun to cast bullets if I had sufficient free time, and someone handed me the equipment for free.

@RangerTrace he obviously intends to do it as a hobby to decompress. Not because it’s necessary.

You were shopping Toyotas. Consequently I didn’t list a space shuttle as an option!

It’s in the first post. Hahaha

Ben Stoeger is a good example of how effective this can be. Videos of him don’t usually look zippy and fast compared to the athlete guys like JJ Racaza. He’s not pushing when he wins. Just shooting insane points, and avoiding the mistakes everyone else will make.

It’s not bad if you stick with the same primer size. Swapping from large to small primers isn’t hard... but is a bit irksome since the screws are annoyingly placed. I’ve only ever loaded 9mm, so I’m cheating. Lol. You’ll deal with more of a pain setting your bulletfeeder up for a new caliber than with the press itself.

All of them chained together.

With the 650 it’s extremely easy to see the powder charge... and if you aren’t placing bullets on a 650, you have nothing to distract you from “pump the handle, look in the case, pump the handle, look in the case” rhythym. Start by loading without the bulletfeeder until you get a feel for how to clear jams and get all the dies dialed in, then add an MBF.

Go with a Dillon 650 and a mister bullet feeder. It’ll feed any bullet you want to load, and the press is much less frustrating than a red one.

Look for wear on the pawl that indexes the shellplate. It lives under the sheelplate at the rear of the press. Take a look at the priming system as well. Look at the handle/linkage/crankshaft mechanism beneath the press and check for play or lack of consistent lubrication. You want one. I had a 650 for 9 years, sold it, have had a 1050 for two years now. Worth every penny.