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Found 61 results

  1. How tidy do you keep your station and bench? I’m curious about dust, spilled powder, debris, etc. Say on scale of 1-10 with basic mile markers below. 10- Immaculate- Intel could make chips at my bench. 7.5 Very clean. Frequently dust and always collect spilled powder even if it’s a single granule. 5 Moderate. Clean every few sessions or if dust / powder accumulates. 2.5 As- needed to prevent major accumulation...don’t feel the need very often. 0- Meh. Time is for shooting, not housekeeping. I’m in my garage and also do wood work there so dust is an issue more than spills. Curious what you guys do...
  2. Hey folks! New to pistol reloading and wanting to get the process down in my head before the last of my equipment arrives. Coming from precision rifle so this isn't all foreign to me, there just seem to be added considerations. It seems like for coated bullets, like the Bayou 135s I ordered, that case mouth expansion is critical so as not to swage the coating to expose any lead. So, the first question is how much expansion are you looking for when loading coated vs when loading jacketed. On the crimp, similarly, is there a difference in the amount of crimp desired vs when loading metal jacketed? Are you worried about deburring the case mouth at all? I'll be loading on one of the Mk7 evolutions that should be coming in shortly. Pushing the 135s with n320 and win primers. Looking forward to the journey! As far as dies, got the redding micro taper, comp seater, and carbide sizer.
  3. I recently found Precision bullets and they are by far the cheapest I have found. Has anyone used them yet? I'd be running them in a glock 34 with a kkm match barrel. Thank you
  4. k1llapanda

    Mpx and eggleston munitions

    Hey guys. Search came up with nothing. So if I missed it and am cloning a previous post please let me know i have a mpx carbine and have about 2000 124gn eggleston projectiles. Anyone have any experience with them through a pcc? Any load data with numbers would b sweet. Wanting to use these bullets but afraid to in open so figure try through the rifle. Thanks for any help In advance. Happy turkey day!
  5. flynbenny

    Powder and Temperature

    I've spent many hours reading all the powder vs temperature threads on here and many on some other sites. Some good info, but I'd like to go a little further. I think from my reading the least sensitive powders are nailed down fairly well, what I lack is data on the ones that are more sensitive. I'm going to do a project for a class at my university on this, so I can use some help in figuring out the powders that are least, average, and most sensitive to temperature changes. I'd like to know this for both rifle and pistol powder. I'm going to do pistol for the project, I'll probably do rifle later this year or early next year (since my only .223 is still waiting for a stock and glass). While it would be interesting to test a bunch of calibers I'm sticking with 9mm for pistol and .223 for rifle for now. I intend to test a load that just makes 125 PF, and one that is a bit hotter around 145-150, to see if there's any correlation between air space in the case and output. Testing will be done over a chronograph, with ammunition that has been held for a long period of time at specific temperatures. So far what I have from here and elsewhere: Pistol: Vihtavuori N3xx and 3Nxx are the least sensitive to temp changes, and Hodgdon Titegroup seems to be average. Some powders are reverse sensitive, e.g. more pressure at lower temps. Rifle: Hodgdon H322 and Varget are the least sensitive. Rifles also seem to more sensitive than pistols, seems logical to me because the charge in a rifle is much heavier, usually around 5 times or more than a pistol charge. What are your experiences?
  6. Darthrader18

    Loading 38sc with 9mm dies?

    Does any one know where I can find a list of which die sets (serial numbers) share dies, asking about Dillon specifically. I'm going to start loading for my 2011 38sc. And I was wondering if all 3 dies are different or just one or 2. I plan on getting a full conversion from 9-38sc with individual powder measures. So trying to save time by just swapping a die or 2 out. Thanks all.
  7. I'm thinking I'd like to try a powder baffle to help improve the consistency of my Dillon 650 over the course of a reloading session. Any thoughts on the Uniquetek baffle vs the Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle? Uniquetek Precision Powder Baffle: Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle:
  8. So my wife said she was fine with me reloading. I’m about half way through studying how to set up. Normally would dig in and take months researching myself but I need to get this thing bought before she hears what reloading entails or what it costs! -Shoot limited but may go to open one day -So 9, 40 are primary objectives. Maybe 45 and 223 as well. -I prefer to “buy once cry once” -Reloading in garage -Shoot two matches a month and practice. So probably on lower side of round count for this site. Target System and expected costs XL 650- $580 Die set 9mm- $60 Strong mount- $45 Scale- $100 digital or lever? Handbook- $25 Calipers- $30 Flip tray- $30 Case loader - $580 with one extra cal. Worth it? Buy at Double Alpha? Media tumbler- $50 recommendations? Inputs Bullets Primers Brass Powder Case lube Thoughts on where to buy the system and components? Am I missing anything? Making a common pitfall? Are there Mega Black Friday sales worth waiting for? Thanks!
  9. Would you rather set up your bench in a large uninsulated detached garage or small basement closet? Relevant context: -I live in the mid Atlantic so temps range from 0 - 100. However, I’m hearty...not too sensitive to hot and cold. -Basement area permits bench of only 40 inches wide by 30 inches deep. -Newby 650 reloader. -Not a huge volume shooter. Reloading mostly for PF and reliability. -I have children who crawl so I’m a little paranoid about lead safety. Buying bullets that are plated or coated. Would tumble outside in any event. -Not a ton of air circulation in basement. -Good neighborhood, so theft from garage isn’t much of a concern. -Anti-Gun neighborhood, so I’d feel some anxiety if kids are over to play or someone visits with garage door up. Opsec in basement would be much stronger. I’ve changed my mind a few times and am curious what you guys think from years of accumulated wisdom!
  10. dirty5thirty

    VIHTAVUORI N320 VS Titegroup

    I have been loading with titegroup and love it because of the price I shoot alot for uspsa. I am running Gallent 125's and it smokes alot. I'm wanting to know if switching to n320 is worth the additional cost vs titegroup. I've heard titegroup and coated bullets just smoke alot and that's the name of the game. I'd switch if it really does shoot cleaner and smoke less.
  11. dirty5thirty

    Federal vs Winchester

    I'll be running them in my stock 3. Winchesters run with my old load for my 34 but saw somewhere online that the Federals match are in stock. Is the extra 29$ per 5k is worth it?
  12. awleland

    Shadow 2 load VV N320

    Does anybody have a load worked up for their Shadow 2 using VV N320 powder? Also what is beat OAL and Bullet weight for a stock Shadow 2? Thanks
  13. I'm relatively new to reloading and, unfortunately, I've had a couple of squib loads, which has made me nervous about my reloading technique. I'm using a Hornady LNL, and my setup is the following: (1) resizing die, (2) powder drop/PTX expander, (3) bullet feeder, (4) seating, (5) taper crimp. I thought I was being careful about visually checking my charges, but apparently I've missed a few. I'd like to add an extra margin of safety by adding an RCBS lockout die (or I could use a Powder Cop, but I already have the lockout die). I thought I could solve the problem by combining the seating and crimping into one die to free up a station for the lockout die, but I'm using plated bullets, and I've read that seating and crimping simultaneously isn't a great idea with plated bullets. So what do I do? I've returned to using a single stage press for now, but there's no way I can crank out the number rounds I need that way.
  14. In an effort to speed reloading/save money, I'm considering the Mini XL 650 Case Feeder over the Dillon case feeder system. Reviews online are spotty at best. Has anyone had any real experience with this system? Can you provide pros/cons vs the hi-dollar Dillon system? Thanks in advance, and sorry if this has been covered before.
  15. rbuck

    9mm Major Pistol Powder?

    Any suggestions for Pistol Powder for 9mm Major USPSA open division? *currently using HS-6.
  16. Any good pistol powders but HS-6? Using for USPSA open division.
  17. wTEXgunner

    Brass for 9 major

    I'm new to reloading and new to 9 major. I have a quick question, how specific is 9mm brass needed in reloading for 9 major? I think I've read somewhere that you can't reuse 9 major brass as often and some say because of the pressure the wouldn't reuse it at all. I've also just stumbled across +P brass which I didn't even know was a thing. Should I stick with only new brass, once fired brass, processed range brass or +P brass?
  18. R1_Demon

    Reporting in from KY

    Hey all! New to the forum but no to shooting. I have been shooting for about 30 years or so. I have been a trainer in the shooting arts for about 23 years or so. Funny that I just now decided to give competitions a try. So I decided to try out USPSA and my first match will be on May 7th if I can get everything in order by then. I'm thinking of trying out the Limited Division with a major power factor in .40, I hope. I also just started reloading as well, so I am trying to learn as much as I can at this point. I have read that this is one of the best sites for competition and reloading information so I am hoping to learn a lot and give back as soon as I am able to. I don't know if it matters but I just picked up a Springfield Armory XD(M) 5.25" Competition in .40 S&W to use in competitions. I haven't shot it yet but I'm sure it will handle nicely. Pleasure to meet everyone. Mat
  19. I still see a lot of people wondering why they fail to meet PF at a match. If you just add a few extra power factor points, now you know what can happen. The bottom line is that velocity is random in nature and the BEST way to understand and manage it is to use statistics. You don’t need to have any special math skills. This post provides the simple steps to follow. For the why and more details, see Frontsight Magazine, Jan/Feb 2015 Edition, Pg. 70. The standard deviation (STD) measures the amount of variation (uncertainty) around the average velocity and it should always be used when reloading. The table below maps the chance of failing an official USPSA PF check to the variable Z. Use Z for reloading by simply multiplying the value of Z by your STD (measured using 8 rounds with your chronograph) and add the result to the required velocity to make major or minor PF for your bullet weight. The result is your desired load velocity. Values of Z are shown from 0 to 3 to illustrate the tradeoff between Z and the chance of failure. My guidance is to use values of Z in the 2 to 2.5 range. Note that if you use the STD (i.e., Z=1), which I’m sure some people do, the chance of failing PF is a whopping 44%. Z Chance of failing PF (per USPSA rules) 3.0 3% 2.5 5% 2.0 10% 1.5 21% 1.0 44% Assume a shooter’s standard deviation for a load with a 155 gain bullet is 15 ft/second (chronographed using 8 rounds). An average velocity of at least 1065 ft/sec is needed to make major power factor. To limit the risk of failure to no more than about 10%, use Z = 2.0 and simply add 30 ft/sec (Z*STD=2*15) to the required velocity to meet PF. Thus the desired load velocity would be 1065+30 =1095 ft/sec. It’s that easy! In our example above, if we “just add a few PF points” and loaded to say 168 PF, this is equivalent to Z=1.26 and the result is a 1 out of 3 or 33% chance of failure. If instead we use the measured extreme spread (which can typically run 60 fps or higher) and load to 1065+60 =1125 fps, it is equivalent to 4*STD or a 186 PF and we needlessly incur excessive recoil and higher cost. If you always load to say a PF=170 (1097 fps), your chance of passing is okay so long as your STD remains below 16 fps (1097-1065)/2. However, if your STD is actually 23 fps, Z drops from just above 2 down to 1.4 (i.e., 32/23) and your chance of failure more than doubles going from below 10% up to 26%. This is why you should measure and use the STD. Shoot with any comments or questions!
  20. Hi gents. I'm in the process of configuring my two 550b presses (long story), and I'm wondering if the roller handle is worth the money over the stock handle? If so, why? Seems like a lot of money for an option. Thanks!
  21. Livin_cincy

    Scrap or keep ?

    This photo was posted in another forum. The question was to scrap or reload. Note that this was found because the user deprimed, cleaned their 9mm brass and inspected it rather than depriming on stage 1 during their progressive loading.
  22. So I want to start reloading, concern of mine is I live in an apartment. I read somewhere that it's a good idea to be in a well ventilated/open area when you send your brass through the tumbler, figured I could do that outside or at my girlfriends house. I was wondering if it's ok to do the reloading process in my bedroom? I have plenty room for a workbench, actually just built and set up a 5 1/2 foot workbench that's two feet deep for workspace. Should I be reload somewhere else other than the room I sleep in?
  23. I just purchased a STI Edge 40 S&W Competition Ready Pistol from Dawson. I would like to reload for USPSA Limited division and would prefer to not reinvent the wheel. What have others found to be an optimum reload for competition and accuracy? I would be interested to know what people are shooting in terms of bullet weight/brand/typd, powder mfg/type/weight, C.O.L. etc.) Thanks to everyone in advance for your advice.
  24. Hello All, I'm new to open 38 and wondering which is better to reload 38 super or 38 super comp? My gun will handle both just trying to get a perspective on differences. thanks mark
  25. I understand this topic has been brought up before but ive already eliminated most of the comments people have suggested, Loading 147 gr polymer heads with N320 3.3 gr which used to work flawlessly in an M&P Pro. I now am getting about 1/5 rounds tumbling in the Shadow 2. Crimp is not removing any polymer off the heads. Tried reducing the powder. can anyone help me with this as i am stuck. Note: i would like to stick to 147 gr heads
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