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Found 16 results

  1. Hello, I am brand new to reloading and looking for some recommendations and and load data to use for 147gr FP Black Bullet International (BBI) and 147gr blue bullets both RN and FP. I have Ramshot Silhouette and Accurate #7 powders, losing mixed brass with CCI 500 primers. Intended for 9mm minor for USPSA. I called BBI and asked their recommendations and he said those powders would not get best results and recommend a shotgun powder. Just looking for a little guidance if anyone has good load recipe with what I have or a powder they would recommend for those bullets. Thanks!
  2. Hey all, I’m wondering what powder you would suggest to use for multiple calibers? I’m looking at starting to reload 9mm, .380ACP and .45ACP. Is there a preferred powder that would work well for all three of those rounds? If it is a powder that would fill up cases to avoid double charging, then all the better. I’m not looking at making competition rounds at this point. Just solid reloads for all three calibers. Thanks! Mat
  3. Looking for recipes. Purchased Winchester Super Handicap by mistake. Somebody said that it can be used for loading pistol ammo. Just trying to use what I have. Have different grains of bullets. Anything would help.
  4. Which one is more accurate ? Truncated Cone, Flat Nose or Round Nose in 9mm. Tell us your pistol set up. (Make, Model, Barrel, Barrel Length, etc.)
  5. I'm just getting into reloading, still buying most of the equipment. 9mm is what I will be focusing on, and I'm looking for a few loads to start off with. The OAL requirement is because of my plans to use the same components for use in my G34 and my PCC. Any help would be appreciated.
  6. *Found a formula error and fixed Reloading Cost-2020.xlsxSo, I first made this spreadsheet back in the mid 2000's when I started reloading. I've been on a layover for the past 4 days so I decided to update it and see what's changed in the decade and half plus since I first made it. I updated it a little when the great ammo/reloading supply shortage of the mid 2000's hit, but haven't touched it since. I figured I might as well share it with others as well. I've seen several threads along the lines of "Is reloading worth it", "what's reloading cost", etc, etc over the years, so I figured this would be a great tool for someone getting into it to figure out their upfront and long term costs. Or for that matter, anyone interested in how much they are saving...or not saving...by reloading. My quick take away is, with the increase in cost of components and the drastic drop in ammo prices, you have to reload A LOT to see any substantial savings. I love the process of reloading in general, but if I were getting into it today I'd have to think long and hard about it. I'd probably still do it, because for me it's not just the cost savings, but the freedom that it brings. Not to mention the ammo that's prefect for each and every firearm I own. And one of the biggest issues for me is you never know when the next "crunch" is gonna hit. I started reloading before the last Big Crunch hit, and one of the main reasons I did it was because I just had a feeling something was on the horizon and I wanted to make sure I had ammo when I wanted it. Not just when it was available. Anyway, I tried to updated to the spreadsheet to make it understandable to look it and figure out what the data was telling them, and to be able to change it to suite your specific needs. Obviously it's tailored to my calibers, bullets, primers, powders, etc, but you can change anything you want. It's not a perfect analysis, because there are just so many possible combinations it would take a 100 years and a 100 sheets to account everything. But I feel like it gives a good "rule of thumb" analysis of the cost of reloading. I use FMJ and JHP for almost all my pistol rounds. I found over the years that when you buy in bulk the fractions of a cent you save on lead coated, or plated just aren't worth it to me personally. I use middle of the road bullets for precision rifle work like Sierra or Nosler. And Bulk Horn 55gr FMJBT for AR stuff. I averaged out powder per round based on common charge weights for a given caliber. I think most things are self explanatory, but I also put a lot of notes to clarify what things I was using and what my line of though was. I'm sure I left some details out. If you have any questions, just ask. The first section is a cost per round break down for common combinations. Second section is cost per round break down of common equivalent factory loadings. Next section is the percentage savings (or lack there of) for reloading over factory ammo. Last section is a place for someone to put the cost of reloading equipment and then figure out how many rounds it will take to break even in terms of yers. I averaged the cost per round for this section based on just high/low average. Obviously the more expensive your factory ammo is, the more you are likely to save reloading. In this section you input the number of rounds you expect to shoot a month, and based on your overhead cost and cost per round it will tell you how long it will take to break even shooting that many rounds per month. Again, it's not perfect, so please I beg you don't remind me. But it will give you better than a rough estimate. I am working on a Mac so it was originally in Numbers, but I have exported it as a xls spreadsheet for the Windows users. There might be some "translation" issue between the two the formats. I have also loaded the Numbers version. If you have an issue, maybe try and open the Numbers version in Excel and let it do the translation to see if that helps. I appreciate all the help I have received over the years here, and I hope this helps someone else. Lastly my suggestion would be do download a copy and duplicate the downloaded copy to make changes too. That way if you mess something up you can always go back to the original and copy it again. 169592097_ReloadingCost-2020.numbers Reloading Cost-2020.xlsx
  7. I still see a lot of people wondering why they fail to meet PF at a match. If you just add a few extra power factor points, now you know what can happen. The bottom line is that velocity is random in nature and the BEST way to understand and manage it is to use statistics. You don’t need to have any special math skills. This post provides the simple steps to follow. For the why and more details, see Frontsight Magazine, Jan/Feb 2015 Edition, Pg. 70. The standard deviation (STD) measures the amount of variation (uncertainty) around the average velocity and it should always be used when reloading. The table below maps the chance of failing an official USPSA PF check to the variable Z. Use Z for reloading by simply multiplying the value of Z by your STD (measured using 8 rounds with your chronograph) and add the result to the required velocity to make major or minor PF for your bullet weight. The result is your desired load velocity. Values of Z are shown from 0 to 3 to illustrate the tradeoff between Z and the chance of failure. My guidance is to use values of Z in the 2 to 2.5 range. Note that if you use the STD (i.e., Z=1), which I’m sure some people do, the chance of failing PF is a whopping 44%. Z Chance of failing PF (per USPSA rules) 3.0 3% 2.5 5% 2.0 10% 1.5 21% 1.0 44% Assume a shooter’s standard deviation for a load with a 155 gain bullet is 15 ft/second (chronographed using 8 rounds). An average velocity of at least 1065 ft/sec is needed to make major power factor. To limit the risk of failure to no more than about 10%, use Z = 2.0 and simply add 30 ft/sec (Z*STD=2*15) to the required velocity to meet PF. Thus the desired load velocity would be 1065+30 =1095 ft/sec. It’s that easy! In our example above, if we “just add a few PF points” and loaded to say 168 PF, this is equivalent to Z=1.26 and the result is a 1 out of 3 or 33% chance of failure. If instead we use the measured extreme spread (which can typically run 60 fps or higher) and load to 1065+60 =1125 fps, it is equivalent to 4*STD or a 186 PF and we needlessly incur excessive recoil and higher cost. If you always load to say a PF=170 (1097 fps), your chance of passing is okay so long as your STD remains below 16 fps (1097-1065)/2. However, if your STD is actually 23 fps, Z drops from just above 2 down to 1.4 (i.e., 32/23) and your chance of failure more than doubles going from below 10% up to 26%. This is why you should measure and use the STD. Shoot with any comments or questions!
  8. I’m a little stumped and wondering if anyone could help me out. I bought some 147gr HST pulls and when I load them I’m getting a bulge in the middle of the case where the base of the bullet is. I’ve adjusted my dies every way and in every combination I can think of. This happens with all head stamps. Even with everything left the same I’ll get some that go into my case gauge fine while others are way off. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix this? Example:
  9. I had a request for a single caliber version so here it is. You can just swap out the number in the 1 remaining field for whatever you want to find cost to reloading that single caliber. FYI, it was easy to edit the original, just delated all the fields for calibers I didn't want, and the only formula I had to fix was the Avg cost per round at the bottom. I went to just add this to the original post, but there didn't seem to be a way to edit the post any longer. Can you only edit a post for a defined period of time? ReloadingCost - Single Calber-2020.xlsxReloadingCost - Single Calber-2020.numbers
  10. Hi everyone, I've been away for some time! So I'm using West Coast plated 180gr. RNFP in my .40 limited guns. One has a well-used Scheuman barrel, and the other a brand spankin' new Nowlin. One lot of these bullets (I had at least 3K) would tumble to the point that I couldn't reliably hit a 12" plate at 10 yards, and could very well throw a miss on a metric target at 15! The bullets that hit were obviously going through sideways. I did all the usual, checked for too much crimp, checked for not enough bell...no good. So I call West Coast, give them the lot#, and they say send them back, we'll replace them. They were very good about replacing 3K that I had left. I loaded the new bullets without changing a thing with the load or the press, and proceeded to go out and shoot a 1 3/4" group offhand at 25 yards! (Way better than usual) Thing is, West Coast will give me no explanation for why the other lot was so crappy, and not knowing is driving me nuts. Does anyone have an idea what may have caused the first lot to be so erratic??
  11. Well after owning my XL650 for a year I finally loaded 6 batches of 10 rounds each working up in powder grains to get a sense of the differences. Prior to this week I had never shot a reloaded pistol round (9mm). I've got to say I friggin' loved it. My first ten rounds were 3.6gr of Titegroup with 1.125ish OAL. Shooting a 124gr Hornady FMJ-RN out of my Glock 34 I use for USPSA CO. I worked up .1gr on each of the next 5 batches. I shot all through my chronograph and documented the fps of each round. But I have a question about process for working up loads and getting consistency with OAL... Like I mentioned I only worked up 10 rounds in a variety of powder grain amount. I have been reading on here (after the fact) and found some suggestions for consistent OAL such as making sure the shellplate isn't too wobbly and making sure each station of the shellplate has a case on it. Both make sense except how do I work up small, consistent batches that way? Am I thinking too small? Should my test batches be more rounds (like 100 or so)? Do I just put the beginning and end rounds aside and shoot them for practice? Or should I recycle the materials for later use? Would love to hear your best practices in this process. My OAL was all over the place not consistent at all. How consistent should it be? For example if my target is 1.125 what is an acceptable range? What is a preferred? I'm a little OCD when it comes to consistency but I wonder if I'm not being realistic. Hopefully longer runs with a full shellplate will help matters. I think my bell may be too large now as well now that I re-read the manual. I attached my data in case anyone wants to take a look. Just know that the OAL documented is approximate since it wandered... Thanks in advance! Load-Data-Record-Book.pdf
  12. Hey folks, Have something of a mystery here... I am sizing on my Mark7 press with a redding Ti-Carbide sizer die. It is leaving these bizarre marks on random pieces of brass and I have not been able to deduce why. I am not decapping on the sizer so the central decapping stem is not present on the die. Checked the interior body of the sizing sleeve and it looks clean and mark free. Ideas?
  13. Hello Folks, To start, I do reload and have for a couple years so I'm not a total newb, but not an expert by any means. This is a bit of a mixed discussion through a couple different questions. First: Trying to decide between staying in Limited and upgrading my gun or moving to Open. Currently shoot Limited with a Glock 34 Gen 3 but looking for a 2011 as an upgrade. I recently shot myself in the foot (not literally) and was able to shoot an Open gun in 9 major. Boy oh boy that was a mistake!! I had far too much fun doing so, but don't have the slightest clue on open guns in the way of reloading. My dilemma is whether or not to stick with Limited or jump to Open and expand my horizons. Reasons on why or why not to switch? Second: If I jump to Open, I've seen that coated bullets aren't super great because the comp vaporizes the coating and builds up in the ports. A friend recommended Montana Gold bullets specifically. I'm only familiar with the name, as it is renowned in the sport, but I don't have much knowledge on them. What makes them so great over any other brand? Please feel free to school me, as I'm always looking for more information on loading and gun knowledge! Thank you for your input and time! -Muddawg
  14. Up until today I’d been running Campro 147’s with Vihtavuori N320 through my non-optic ready Shadow 2. I discovered that the Optic Ready isn’t loving that combination quite as much, but it sure does love the 124’s. Making a switch in my reloading as soon as I’ve shot through the 147’s reloads.
  15. Some of my once fired brass for my .223 has scratches that are deep enough to feel with my fingernail, but they are tiny. Are these dangerous? or are they too small to cause any harm? i know dents are not too bad but i dont know what to consider for reload and not, because it is quite a few of them. but they have only been fired once. Thank for any advise.
  16. Just wanted to share the DIY strong mount I came up with for my rock chucker. Used a boat seat pedestal made by Attwood, purchased at Walmart for $10~ I did have to put a piece of wood between the press and pedestal to elevate the press high enough so the link assembly would clear the bench. I clamped the wood to the pedestal using C clamps and drilled the mounting holes through the wood and pedestal at the same time. This helped keep the drill bit from walking. This method possibly could work for a dillon press too if you got the 13" high pedestal and the mounting surface was wide enough. I used the 7" pedestal. For $20 it's a great way to get the press on and off the bench quickly when working with limited space.
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