MemphisMechanic

The MAIN thing that changed is that the legs of the wall beyond the shooting area can not be used for support: you can’t stand on them any longer.

The starlight system (I think from reloading innovations?) A Mr bullet feeder. Those are the first upgrades you want.

Procedure will differ from gun to gun, but in general...

@RickT short verison on PCC recoil managmeent? Mount the heel of the stock on your pec kinda under the dominant eye, torso fairly close to square to the target. It’ll drive chest straight back instead of rotate you, like it does out at the shoulder. (The dot will track more vertically, not diagonally like it does if your shoulder rocks back with the stock out there.) Grip the handguard way out there with the weak hand and drive it HARD back into your chest. Engage your core and drive your chest forward, into the gun. You should not need your firing grip to support the rifle. Clamped into place at both ends, it’ll move much less when fired. Lean into the gun and get your weight on the ball of the front foot. Observe dramatic reduction in dot movement.

@zzt that’s only against conventional handgun wisdom. Short stroked guns with a well tuned buffer & spring at 135-145 powerfactor are pretty unviersally accepted as the flattest-shooting AR-9 setup in the PCC forum. Gotta get the new guy with a rifle to stop thinking softness, like he wants his handguns to run, and start thinking dot movement & flatness.

I think @B_RAD had to do something like this. I believe it was his post that I saw, though I’m not certain.

If your sight fits tightly enough it needs driven in with a punch / sight pusher... you use brake cleaner to degrease the dovetail, sight, setscrew hole, and set screw... and you coat the dovetail and the setscrew with red loctite then install and torque it? You should never have a sight shift. I never have. True of my installs on Walther, Glock, M&P, or Tanfoglio. (You are removing the setscrew, aerosol-blasting the threads on screw and sight, and reassembling with loctite, right?)

Stop chasing your tail and run some factory ammo through it first, like I told you. You need to isolate the problem to your gun, or your ammo before you spend any time or any money on this.

My buddy hundo’d it the other day. You’re watching an 18 year old kid who is scary fast, and was 6th in the overalls at Production nationals. Entering on the partial is going to cost you excessive setup time, or a high risk of a mike / noshoot.

Patriot Defense.

Is it really dishonesty if you’re lying to yourself even more aggressively than you’re lying to those around you?

Heat it up locally til it assumes the consistency of rubber, wear thick leather gloves so that you can press the gun into the holster and then pretty much pinchpinchpinch all over the area that needs reshaped, working back and forth. (When you stop applying pressure, kydex has a memory and will attempt to return to it’s straight unmolded shape. So keep working it while it cools.) You can also dip it in a bucket of water to instantly lock it into whatever shape it held the moment you dipped it in. If you mess up, warm it up again and start over.

That’s only because he couldn’t figure out a way to triple plug.

How is the gun sprung, and are you running a bolo and a racey hammer? Remember you’re back to the land of the hammer-fired gun. Where a primer that’s merely flush is a high primer, and won’t go bang with lighter springs.

Correct. If you request it during an annual physical, they’ll run the tubes of blood they always draw. Make it clear “you shoot indoors a lot and recently had another competitor test high” or somesuch. Even if it’s bending the truth... I’ve always had to lean on the clinic to get the test run. The primary benefit of gloves is that you typically won’t touch your face as much while wearing them. That keep the lead on your hands away from places where it can easily be absorbed. Most of the lead enters via the lungs while breathing the fumes lingering after shots are fired. This makes indoor ranges much more hazardous, especially poorly ventilated ones where the air smells metallic. Which is most of them. Much of the remainder is taken in by touching your mucus membranes (eyes nose and mouth) with residue on your hands, as mentioned.

A dremel with a cutoff wheel is one of the cleaner ways to cut kydex. It’ll melt it moreso than cut it, so you’ll need to spend some time sanding the edges if you care about a factory looking finish.

This. If a mag is in the gun without dummies in it, then you’re fighting the magazine spring too. (You probably already know this, but sometimes it escapes newbies.)

Look under the forums for handgun types, there is a forum there dedicated to the CZ brand specifically. The short answer is yes. Production rules have been loosened dramatically in the past two years, and you can now replace hammers triggers and safeties with any part you want. Even something flagrantly aftermarket and hot pink. Set the gun up however you like, minus a magwell, and have fun.

You can also take a belt sander to one of the thicker inserts to accomodate your mags. That’s how my DAA Racers got set up for Walther mags.

Does all of the ammo you fed the gun pass a plunk & spin test without resistance? You may need to have the barrel throated to run longer ammo if it is like other Tanfoglios... and there’s no way I’d run Major 9 at anything shorter than 1.160” regardless of bullet profile.

Any chance your machining or one of the optic screws somehow is interfering with the extractor? I’d pull the top end apart and inspect it, with a new extractor spring ready to be installed while I was in there. On a tanfo at least, you can slide an empty case up into the breechface beneath the extractor and it should hold onto it pretty aggressively.

hopefullY john will chime in. I linked him to this. From his instagram’s comments:

What the others said. If you’re going to shoot a highcap SIG, shoot it in production. No way I’m spending money to set up a gun in Limited that isn’t a .40

Exactly this. The DAA powder funnel works wonderfully on the 650/750 presses to stop trumpet-flaring your brass and allow the bullet to insert cleanly instead. Just like an M-die does.