MemphisMechanic

@BSwanson if you like the ergonomics of the M&P, put an apex barrel into it and it’ll be more accurate than any factory glock could hope to be. If you sell it, you won’t get much for it. Even the 2.0 is routinely avaialable brand new for $400 or less if you catch the right sale.

That’s a 147 loaded at an OAL of 1.062. Of course it fits the chamber... I’d rather cut my chamber to allow the gun to feed longer ammo. Particularly since I have a great source of mixed-age 9mm brass. You see, once a case has been loaded a few times you’ll find a lot of them may bulge. You’ll find a belly develop on the side when you’re shoving a bullet that long so deeply into your brass. Loading 147 to 1.140 results in far FAR fewer case gauge failures than stuffing it back to 1.160-1.090” territory. I don’t even know how many Tanfo, Shadow 1&2, Glock 5th gen, and Walther barrels I have cut for my guns and a few friends. Dozens. @PhilTerry pull the barrel and drop the offending round into the chamber. Does it drop in and spin freely without resistance? If not, you’ve probably found your problem.

Sent you a PM. Note: I can’t do .40s. Just 9mm.

This! A QC10 dedicated lower is the way to go. I’ll shortly have one for sale in the classified’d with a fat BMiller magwell and the stripped matrix arms upper the National champion recommended. Just gotta cerakote them to match. (My personal preference is for a more stable platform than the Taccom ULW, too. I personally feel takes a lot of work to muscle/drive the gun hard enough to keep it on-target for followup shots.) Highly suggest going this route!

If you’re sure you want to stick with the mass longterm, I’d spot weld the pin into the bolt if it were my rifle. Permanent if you don’t do anything to it, but some work with a dremel can still remove it someday if needed. ...but then again, I have a rather nice welder in the garage.

I like the TTI +10s. Slide the pin down with a fingernail or bullet tip and it pops off easily. Also has a more secure feel with less slop on an OEM Glock mag than my MBX extension.

I don’t know anyone who is serious about competition use of their PCC who is running a gun which locks back. Both of my lowers with that feature saw them rapidly removed.

Completely normal. I came into shooting sports as a manner of seeing what I’d actually be capable of doing under stress involving a handgun. Like all of us, the answer was “I am much, much less than capable than I thought I was.” There are two reactions to this: About half the people can’t take the harsh truth and they never come back. Half of us see it as motivation and can’t wait to learn and do better at the next match.

@DonJones the gun I was working on is a Tanfoglio Stock 3. The ambidextrous safety for a stock 2 or stock 3 should fit your gun of it doesn’t use a CZ-style safety. I use a polishing compound from an auto parts store meant for polishing wheels which works very well. Load it up on a felt wheel and use your dremel. I used the same stuff on the slide and frame rails. I would not run a lighter recoil spring or hammer spring if I were using a Tanfoglio for defensive carry. A through polishing to smooth the trigger out is all I would do.

Referring to the second video: Your feet move in ways that indicate you aren’t programming your footwork which will occur between targets during an array. That should be sorted out when planning the stage. It looks like your feet shuffle wherever you find they needed to in positions one and two. Those positions also look like places where you could have set up to attack every single target without needing to move your feet between them. The loads into and out of position two cost you serious time. They aren’t quick enough to avoid slowing down your movements or ability to engage your next target.

Good advice for Glock extensions in general, and TF pads regardless of mag or extension size.

Glad you liked the video series I put together. We have a dedicated Tanfoglio forum, which is here: https://forums.brianenos.com/forum/202-tanfoglio-eaa-ifg/ I’m not certain if the safety off the Stock 2 or 3 series will fit your gun, but that’s what I was working on in the video. Hopefully it will. It wasn’t an aftermarket part: Many of Tanfoglio’s competition guns come with double-sided safeties.

This was your first opportunity to learn a lifelong lesson: All chances to purchase a Kimber should be bypassed. There are many gents for whom a Kimber is their beginning gun in Singlestack. They showed up with it. However, I have never ever seen someone’s second or third purchase for SingleStack feature the word Kimber on the side. There’s a lesson to be learned here from your experienced peers.

This one contains a pre-translated version of their press release: https://www.all4shooters.com/en/shooting/culture/sports-and-law-enforcement-military-firearms-manufacturer-sig-sauer-is-bankrupt-production-in-germany-is-to-be-discontinued-the-eckernfoerde-plant-will-be-closed/

I actually put the factory springs back in it. I don’t care for the SF so all of my guns are polymer still, so no Overwatch trigger.

Make sure to check it weakhand shooting too. Factory trigger with strong triggersafety spring, lighter sprinco trigger spring. On the final target I went weakhand (as a lefty) to avoid a hard lean and...

A 15 pound spring is shockingly heavy for a hammer-fired gun running minor ammo. Cocking the hammer takes much of the slide’s rearward momentum away, so most guys are running 8-10 pounders in metal DA/SA guns. Correspondingly, I’d probably want to run a spring in the 10-12 pound range if I were shooting soft 147s in a lighter polymer gun with a hammer. With some research I believe you’ll likely find a spring intended for aGlock or Walther or other firearm will run the P09 just fine. Many 9mm platforms use rather similar diameters and lengths. (A 12-13 pound spring is virtually standard in striker fired guns like the Glock and M&P and XD when set up for minor competition ammo, just for reference.)

Here’s some more: Comtinuing this course of action, you’ll very shortly find yourself banned from the classified forums you’re chasing. ...Fifty legitimate posts...

It definitely is.

For a weak DA/SA such as a CZ with a 10.5ish, or a Tanfoglio with a 13-14, a flush primer is a high primer. In most brands of brass, CCIs are truly bottomed out at .004-006” ish below flush, winchesters .007” or so. Roughly. (CCI primers are physically taller than Winchester.) If the primer is merely flush, it’s deep enough for most guns to light it off... but not a gun with a weak double-action strike. This is also why all the revo guys shoot Federals buried deep. Same mechanism, different platform. I ran CCI 550 Magnums in a Tanfo loaded on a 650, and that combo took serious tuning. For the past few years, I’ve been shooting a PPQ with a full power striker spring and CCIs buried 100% of the time on the swage and stuff... er... the 1050. Can’t recall the last time I had primer issues. They get a glance now, versus every round in the hundo inspected carefully.

The factory hammer spring is 17.5-18lbs. The extreme Medium spring is 16ish, and does not stack severely like the factory spring does. It’s the short term answer for CCIs in a 650 with a Tanfoglio. The gun will eat anything.

Patriot does good work and does it fast. They’re a solid option I always recommend... and I’m sure other shops are out there who can do it well. Most of the barrels I’ve cut have been hardened Shadow 2, P09, P10 Walther, or 5th Gen Glock, which are all hardened steel allowys which the big shops won’t touch. They’ll ruin a highspeed steel reamer before you get the job done, so you have to go tungsten carbide. ( @1911luvr has the reamers I use custom made, so buying one through him is also an option. Be aware that carbide reamers are NOT cheap, so it only makes sense if you have a half dozen barrels to work on.) I’m always happy to cut a 9mm 1911 or SP-01 or Tanfo, too. But any competent gunsmith can handle that task.

People used to run a Type 3 disconnector for CZs back before anyone made a disconnector for the Tanfos. Oldschool tech and required extensive fitting, like reaming one of the pin holes. Made by Cajun Gun Works, I believe.

@Slalom45 I might suggest replacing the sight and keeping the existng rear as an emergency spare / backup. LPA Tanfo rear sightsare not exceptionally durable.

This is the only factory rifle I’d take to a match unfired, and find myself surprised if it malfunctioned. If you want to piece your rifle together with a quality upper and lower, fill it with JP moving parts and it will run.