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How Far Do You Zero Your AR in 3 Gun?

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+1 on zeroing the Strike Eagle at 50 yards. I usually  go about 2 inches on top of the bullseye. The longest shot I've had in 3 gun matches is 400y and to can still hit it without any complications or crazy adjustments.

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With a vortex strike eagle I follow their manual. I zero the crosshairs at 50/200 and that puts the post at the top right on at 100. I can consistently hit 1 moa with 55gr out to 200 and then past that I use 75gr out to 600. The bottom mark on the reticle is at 580 with 75gr. No trouble at all hitting 3moa steel from 300-600 with that setup.


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Check your manual about your reticle. Quite a few of them that are BDC are designed to function with a specified zero. For me and the Vortex HD 1-6x it specifies a 200yd zero.

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I typically zero hoser ammo at 200 yards.  But if I have a match with a lot of long distance, I will zero the first hash mark on my 1-6 razor at 300.  Rest of the hash marks line up great, and the difference at 100 with my hoser ammo is negligible. 

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100yd zero and I know the holdover for all close stuff and my hoser bay stages as well as my long range. A tip, I use strelok and for a long range stage I will draw my holdover/reticle on a sheet of paper with the corresponding targets and tape it to my stock with clear tape. Ive thought about doing the same thing with a quarterback armband.

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200 METERS with optics (usually 75 grain bullets).  When shooting open, I zero the dot at 50.  My optics are usually calibrated to a 200m zero and I think it's a great all around zero for optics.

 

300 YARDS with irons (usually that's with 53-55 grain bullets - shooting flatter is better with irons and IPSC rifle stops at 300 meters which is the only place I'd shoot irons anymore.)  

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I have mine zeroed at 50 yards and that works well for me. But my opinion is that it doesn't really matter what your zero is, it's about knowing your gun and knowing the distance on your hash marks. 

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Thanks for the info guys. Has me rethinking what I will do with mine when I get it. Was going to zero at 100, but now I'm thinking I'll try it first at 50 and go from there.


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Posted (edited)
On 7/11/2017 at 7:28 AM, Cuz said:

Thanks for the info guys. Has me rethinking what I will do with mine when I get it. Was going to zero at 100, but now I'm thinking I'll try it first at 50 and go from there.


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I'd still suggest zeroing at 200 since that's the yardage where zeroing (elevation drops) starts to matter.  Your 50 yard zero will be close (usually) to your 200 yard zero but if you zero at 200 at least you know you'll be dead on at 200, at least elevation wise.

Edited by FunkyTownAggie

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Posted (edited)

A 50yd zero is not necessarily a 200yd, never has been for me anyway. It may be close, but not on. I mean several inches not on...

ALWAYS verify at 200 (or your selected zero) after setting a PRELIMINARY zero at 50 or some other close range.

jj

 

Eta; just a word of advice. (And I see this a lot) Don't go to a match with a 50yd zero and expect to hit long range targets...

Edited by RiggerJJ

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200yd zero.  And +1 for RiggerJJ of confirming you're zero at 200yds

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Running a Vortex Razor 1-6 with the JM-1 BDC reticle.  My Zero is about 220yds.  I actually zero the 300yd stadia line on the BDC reticle at 300yds.  This causes the remaining lines to line up a little closer for my load.  When zeroed at 200, the 300 was hitting at 280ish, 400 at 360ish, etc.  

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So it seems nobody zeros at 100 ? My vortex pst 1- 4 says to zero at 100 and the 1st hash mark is good for 50 which I have it at but more often the shots are 50 or less .....some 100yd or 150yd max shots. I was considering switching to a 50 yard zero.

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7 hours ago, tattooo said:

  I was considering switching to a 50 yard zero.

 

If you look back to Shooterdrew's (2nd posting), if your longest shots are 150 yards, you're much better staying at 100 yards.

 

BUT, I'd run a few rounds at 50 and 150 yards to make sure   :) 

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50/180 yards for me. No thinking between 30 and a little over 200 yards that way.

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I get out at sunrise when it's completely calm and zero the 300 yard BDC mark at 300.  Then I shoot the 100/200/400/500 yard mark to see where they are hitting with my load and compare it to the data from my balistic software and make notes. 

If the Match only has 50, 100, or even 200 yard long range shots I'll zero to those distances to eliminate the need for hold over/unders.

The reason I like to zero at 300 is I've had a nice 1-2" group at 100 or 2-3" group at 200 start to move 3-5" off center as I stretched it out to 500-600.  Heck if I had the distance I'd prolly zero at 400 or 500 because if you're dead nuts at 400-600 the closer stuff is going to be deader nuts!

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On 2/24/2017 at 9:01 PM, kurtm said:

It is usually best to run an "absolute zero", but you will run the risk of trigger freeze. (as pointed out in another thread on this same subject)

I'm sure you wouldn't have expected anything but a frosty response to that

 

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i run a 100yd zero, mainly just used to it from precision rifle.  I run a straight mil reticle with no BDC so it just works well for what I'm used too

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Much good advice already given, I zero similar to Jesse T., i.e. 300 yard hash if the reticle has one.

 

One thing to consider:  If you travel to matches and are concerned about your optic/sights getting knocked around, some ranges may only have 50 yds available before the match for verifying zero, so whatever your zero it’s probably a good idea to know your offset at 50.

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I have used the 50 from the beginning, I then realized the importance of doing it at 200 instead. Made a difference. I've become confident with that zero out to 200. Even with a red dot.

 

But where I have a problem is beyond 200, where my local match seems to reside. You won't see many rifle targets inside 100, and you see a lot out to 400. AND, you could be scoping those through a bus window! 

So this zeroing to the 300 yard hash mark is starting to make a lot of sense. Think I am going to try that. Thanks Jessie, and the other fellas that mentioned it.

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