FunkyTownAggie

2a armament if you want light. I think they still have the blemish set with free handguard deal still going on. I think it saves around $300 plus vs non blemished. The blemish is the hole to install the front takedown pin Detent is slightly out of spec, meaning it doesn’t affect the actual usage of the rifle.

Here's an article on it. If you don't want to read all of it skip down to the conclusions. https://www.snipershide.com/training-lesson-mechanics-rifle-cant/

I agree it's not great to cant a rifle, but if you zero your rifle at 100 yards and shooter cants rifle but scope is level to horizon... a 1 moa move in windage on the scope will change the POI 1 MOA as long as the shooter maintains the same cant which in turn means scope is plumb/level to horizon.

If you level the gun to the scope and you cant your rifle (lets exaggerate) at 45 degrees, then your scope is canted 45 degrees to plumb. If you want to move your POI 1" right, you have to dial both your elevation and windage. I'm not saying it's the best and only way to do it, just another option. I personally would rather have a level scope to the rifle and work on shooting the rifle completely level. Some people need adjustable buttpads where the cant can be adjusted in order to accomplish this.

The hiperfire 24c gets my vote. I did babe the JP armageddon roller trigger and it didn’t feel much better to me than any of the $100 single stage drop in triggers.

If you cant the gun naturally, I would mount it where the scope is plumb while you have the gun in your natural cant.

I wish my CK arms grip had more texture to it like my Aggressivr SVI grip. I still like the CK arms more than the plastic STI grip. Overall I like the added weight especially in the grip area where it doesn’t make it that much more difficult to swing the pistol.

As another database point, my My MBX and SVI mags have all run 100% in my SVI, STI and CK Arms 2011s.

Brazos custom has a good pro kit if you want to replace spring, hammer, etc. unless something is obviously wrong with any of the internals I’d just keep it as is for now unless you have a hole burning in your pocket.

I believe that's correct, but also read the C/P was superior in some ways, although I'll probably never realize those benefits. I figured with that being said, i'd just have a new C/P barrel fit to the original top end.

Old thread but new option on the block. The 2a titanium bcg with adjustable gas key runs great in my 3 gun ar15 and weight 5.9 oz iirc.

New 6” sight tracker in 9mm top end from Gans (Gary Natale). I need to get it finished still.

It’s just a thumb shield. It’s Not attached to the safety at all. TennJeep linked it above already. Here it is. http://www.1911store.com/thumbguardbcg.aspx rereading - RePete above was emphasizing what a thumbshield safety vs what the op was asking about which is just a krebs thumbshield.

My plan was to have two uppers. Original is an eagle in .40. I had a sight tracker 6” built in 9mm using a SVI rubbed barrel which comes in C/P ramp only. My plan all along is to just replace the eagle upper with a C/P ramp barrel.

Haha. I didn’t try but was curious. Your answer definitely has kept me from wanting to even think about trying. Thanks!

I had a new upper with C/P ramp barrel fit to my STI eagle frame and had the frame cut C/P. My original upper has a N/W ramped barrel. The original upper will fit in the newly cut C/P frame but this obviously leaves a lot of room between the frame ramp and barrel ramp. I was wondering how much engagment/impact this area takes while firing. You can see where I’m going here can’t you. The obvious right answer is to get a new C/P ramped barrel fit to the eagle slide.

The only thing I can think is the magazine might be pushing magazine release ever so slightly forward which in turn reduces the trigger over travel.

On the Leupold 1-6x, are you talking about the VX6 or Mark 6. If the Mark 6, this would be the first time I've seen someone say it isn't daylight bight. I think the Mark 6 is very daylight bright as is the Burris 1-8 SFP (emphasis on second focal plane). If your budget allows, then swarovski 1-6, 1-8 and kahles are options as well.

For cool factor and self defense, the KSG is probably a better option. I wouldn't mind owning one of these though... just to have.

I definitely had a POA/POI change on my JM 930 to the point that I was racking my brain on how to bring the POI down. After some research, I took off the clamp and the POA matched the POI. I now use a taccom clamp and "free float" the barrel.

Depending on condition and who did the work, I would say 80%-120% of a new stock one.

Brazen firearms quoted $120 for a steel 2011 grip coated using PVD process. Another place that escapes me quoted around $180 for PVD coating.

I wonder why they don't have stainless now. So if you want a stainless look for the entire pistol you have to get it CrN coated now?

Oh I plan on getting it finished, just wanting to test it out a few hundred rounds and make sure I didn't want to make any other changes prior to getting it coated. I see some places charge for cleaning parts prior to coating. Is it safe to assume I can clean it of all powder/carbon residue then flood it with oil before putting it in a bag and not have to pay for them to "clean" the oil off?

I've got a 6" 9mm upper that Gans Enterprise assembled and fitted to by STI Eagle lower. I was pretty sure I didn't want it blued so I'm having him ship it back to me tomorrow in the white. As long as I keep it oiled, and clean/re-oil after each range trip, do I need to worry about rust? My safe is humidity controlled. If I choose to go the DLC route, is JaBuie the best/only/most affordable way? I see Brazen Firearms does TiN in traditional, gold, rose and carbon gray. I thought TiN is only gold, maybe the 2 other colors are different like TiAIN. Is TiN ok for slides. My research shows it's harder than hard chrome but not as hard as DLC. Lastly, has anyone had a 1911/2011 slide melonited and had adverse issues from it?