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Showing results for tags 'Grip'.
Found 22 results
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Greetings! I am relatively new to pistols, have been shooting IPSC just over a year. The gun is CZ Shadowline, fully stock, except for fitted pre-B disconnector and minor internal clean ups. I can shoot it okay from time to time, but lack consistency. Took a class recently, and have been told the grip may be too narrow for my hand size (8.5 in surgical gloves, fairly long fingers). With two handed grip, my left palm sits mostly on the right finger tips and barely contacts the pistol. This leads to poor grip after 5-6 shots in rapid fire drills. Thinking about getting slightly thicker grip panels or maybe an upgrade to Shadow 2 - I find S1 / S2 much easier to control thanks to the checkering on front and back straps. My philosophy is to make the best use of the equipment I already have, but on the other hand one should not be running half-marathons in shoes that are a size too small...
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Hey All, So I picked up an X5 Legion to give carry optics. So far I have been pretty happy with it, and I love the weight of it, but I found the grip dug into the the base of my thumb, which drove me nuts. I realized that all of my favorite guns have wide grips with narrow beaver tails, Tanfo, CZ, 2011. I was afraid to start cutting on the fancy legion grip, so I used part of my $200 rebate to get a standard polymer X5 grip, to modify. The modification was a little rough, because I rushed a bit, but I think it feels 100 times better now. I also realized that Sig does offer a similar narrow beavertail grip the for the XCompact, but its grip diameter is smaller and it doesn't have the same magwell, which we need for competition. Don't even think it would work with the 5" barrel anyway, but I handled one at a local gun shop, and it similarly feels way better than the standard X grips. Question is, would this grip modification be legal for Carry Optics (or Production)? I want to be sure before modifying my actual X5 Legion grip in the same way. XCompact Grip:
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I'm wondering what your guy's opinion is on the schools of thought behind this. As far as Inward Should Pressure goes, specifically what I'm talking about, is in addition to canting and locking your left wrist, and clamping hard with your support hand, you clamp your hands inward (Hold your hands out where your gun would be, but hold them together as if you were clapping. Now try to push them together as much as possible, this is the pressure I'm talking about). The only shooter I've found who mentions this mentality when gripping the gun is Bob Vogel. (Multiple videos of him mentioning this specifically, here's one link: https://youtu.be/688tyvWxaYg?t=207) I feel that when I've implemented this, and I'm actively thinking about gripping the gun like this, my groups get better, period. feels like the gun comes back to zero more consistently and faster than if I wasn't. And my splits also seem to improve a tad. The counter to this, Is that very often, I hear a lot of top shooters talk about everything being relatively relaxed while shooting other than your wrist+grip (shoulders relaxed, arms and elbows bent and not completely stiff, etc.) The specific instance I'm thinking of is in Ben Stoeger's "Breakthrough Marksmanship", where he is talking about general tension when shooting, but I know I've heard it in a myriad of other places and videos. The usual reasoning behind wanting the tension in your body to be more or less loose is for smooth transitions, and more specifically not driving the gun too hard/over transitioning. Which I have noticed is the case sometimes when I'm gripping the gun like this because, instead of driving the gun to the next target with the correct amount of force, the tendency is to use my whole body to over drive the gun because my shoulders are forward and relatively stiff, elbows, while not locked to still have some suspension for recoil, are decently tight and forward, so I over transition sometimes. Are these things not actually contradictory and I'm thinking about this wrong?... Is one consistently better and one worse?... Is it all personal Preference?... Just Suck Less?... Let me know what you guys use and your thoughts, thanks! Also first time post, be gentle.
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I have a SIG P320-M17 with a DeltaPoint Pro that I intend on shooting in IDPA CO. That pistol is SSP legal and so should be just fine in CO. But if I want to replace the stock grip module (a standard carry grip module) with a full-size XGRIP like the XFIVE, would that be SSP legal without the magwell extension? With the magwell, would it be ESP legal (and so CO legal, too)? The root question, I suppose, is whether or not swapping a standard grip for an XGRIP is still legal.
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OK, I know the differences between these 2 gats has been discussed at length before, but I've yet to see a direct comparison strictly on the grip size. From what I've read, the Stock 2 has a shorter trigger reach, but may also have a larger grip? That seems somewhat counter-intuitive to me. Background: I started with a Glock 34, and really like the large, blocky grip that the Glock offers (but that's about it, lol). I then switched to a Shadow 2 earlier this year as it was readily available. I love the gun itself, the trigger, and the accuracy, but honestly I index much quicker/better with a Glock. I'm running Henning grips which helps but still would like a larger/blockier grip like a Glock or 2011. I have XL hands and long fingers, so when I hear the Stock 2 grip is better for large hands, it has me thinking I'd like to give it a try. Unfortunately I don't know anyone at my local club that has one to try out. Any feedback from those with large hands? -
I'm currently at a block in my shooting, caused by an inability to have the sights return to target automatically after recoil without any input from myself. This is crucial to shooting good split times. When I shoot, the gun usually ends up tilted upwards slightly. I use a standard thumbs forwards grip. My grip strength is pretty weak, I struggle to close a #1 CoC gripper, and that's something I'm working on. However, to my knowledge, having the gun recoil back on target has little to do with the strength of the grip, but rather how the gun is gripped. I use a CZ Shadow, which is a pretty big gun. I recently acquired a Sig P210 which is a bit smaller, and found the recoil more consistent on that. My hands aren't exactly small, so I don't think it's a physical limitation. Does anyone have any suggestions or idea as to what I'm doing wrong?
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Background: Been shooting Tupperware + CZ Shadow for a while. Finally got my act together and got an STI Edge. (I have multiple 1911s). Went to the range to put it through its paces. Now I have been working on my grip especially rotating my Left Hand 'forward'/thumb away from body. I have seemed to eliminate trigger jerk, despite still anticipating recoil--thats not the point of this post. Something was slapping my RIGHT thumb as it rode the safety. I suspect it is my gripping the gun tightly and feeling the slide moving. This was something new as I do not have this issue on my normal 1911s. Anu suggestions on what might be causing this? Am I gripping to tight? DO I just let my thumb sit on the safety and not squeeze? When I first started my thumbs would go any which way into space on not even touch the gun--perhaps I have over corrected? Also it seemed that .40 was a lot more snappy that I remembered--especially for a big pistol like the edge. Not sure if this is my new grip, new round, etc. Before I could have sworn there is no difference between 9,40 and 45. Am I just becoming more aware? Or do I need to tweak the gun. I've shot a 45 1911 a lot over the years--never had any 'comfort' issues, but I did really notice the 40 was recoiling--we're not talking .357 mag or anything but it was a noticable step up over 9mm. (Full disclosure--I have a beretta 96 and have shot it tons, just not lately) Also someone call the STI haters. My gun is broken. Feeds Hollowpoints (had some junky 135 HP that were discounted years back. Yes 135 gr hollowpoints), Flat nose, etc without issue. Trigger is meh out of the box, but thats compared to 'My' 1911 which I have tweaked to perfection over the years. Best shooting I've done at 15 yards in a while though. Biggest issue was LOADING the mag as those 40 rounds don't like to slide all the way back.
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Someone in r/CCW was having issues with their grip & recoil control so I made this video to help people, who may have more issues with that, than me currently. I've actually had only 2 live fire practice sessions, that focused on the grip and allowed me to improve the recoil control. So if anything is incredibly stupid in this vid - I would be glad to eat dirt and listen to your advice (don't be fooled by the tone of the video, I only look like a douche, I can listen, I promise, plz bb =) ) Ammo used in live fire is 180gr 1020fps Winchester LEO .40 s&w "purple brass" Handgun: CZ P-09 This was originally posted on reddit, but it's kinda dead there in r/CompetitionShooting and people of different subs I tried to share this and other stuff aren't very interested, so I probably should stick to USPSA forums instead or at least leave this here. Some comments with more advice from reddit users txstgunner & TheHumbleMarksman: For me, it's like holding a bench press bar after you've just lifted off before you start repping, that's what the pressure feels like coming from each hand. You're 100% right on the left hand - really do focus on it until it's subconcious and you don't have to anymore. It helps in transitions as well as helps contain muzzle flip and drift due to bad trigger press. I'd add roll out shoulders so that lats engage. My skin on my hands is total trash from dryfire practice. I developed a bad crack on my right hand middle finger due to the cold dry air we've had this winter. Don't use your support hand thumb to press into the frame with a grip like that, it makes the sights track less consistently.
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Wanting some input on what you guys find gives you the best grip for your PCC? I have looked at several magpul but they seem to be just hard plastic which is not good in sweaty hands etc.
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Looking for some advice as I get closer to completion on pistol. Gonna shoot it for a month or two to make sure there are no hidden issues that need to be addressed before finishing. The slide is Nickel Boron, comp is Titanium. The SVI signature grip is stainless. The STI frame is carbon steel (in the white). I've used Ionbond for several guns with great success. Just would like something other than a black and silver gun. I actually like the way it sits now, but the untreated frame is a no go. The NiB looks good, and is durable, but the slide was very thick. Created some clearance issues when it returned. Contacted Ionbond about other PVD coatings they offer in various colors. Want something more durable than Cerakote. Appreciate any feedback.
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I have a GI 1911. After installing an Ambi Safety, I see that the (1) Grip Safety need to be replaced. Why? Because by resting my left hand thumb on the safety does not pressure the grip safety enough to release the trigger. (2) So, I picked up a Grip Safety with a rise on the end hoping it will be enough to force engagement. This is a fitting job so I was considering sending it out to have done. (3) But, Fitting the Grip Safety impacts the GI style hammer as the hammer spur no longer fits. (4) So I might as well take a look at competition hammers which is an entire process in itself. (5) If a new hammer is to had than the sear engagement will have to be fitted and possibly replaced. My question is that this seem like a lot of changes to get the safety grip to work. While I may want to learn to fit this stuff later, It seems a lot to do first time out the gate. I simply want to use the gun. Is there a definitive NO to disabling the grip Safety by taken metal off the engagement tip of the safety? Or, is pining the best solution and can it be done simply on a drill press? What are your thoughts on this never ending change chain? -
I picked up a spare polymer STI grip to do a little filing to see if I can get it skinnier. Aside from not taking off enough to break the grip or bind up the magazine, anything else I should know? I don't plan on stippling it -- texture isn't an issue, since I've already grip taped the factory one. I still find that I can't squish the little jerk as hard as I'd like with the angles involved. So, show me what you've got and/or tell me what you did.
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The basic question I have is, how do I know I have the correct grip size? My P320 came with a medium grip and I was wondering if its right for me. I think it is right, but from my tennis experience, I tried a larger grip and gained control in my very poor tennis game... In this line of thinking I ordered, back-ordered, a larger grip to try; shoot it and see.... I'm anticipating being able to get more of my week hand palm on the grip... I've learned a lot from you all from stance and grip modernization, training, gun mods, and load info. Have any of you tried different grips? What did you find?
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Just picked up my first 2011 the other day, used but in great shape. The grip has been slightly reduced and textured on the side panels and mainspring housing, but not the front strap. I haven't even shot the thing yet, but down the line I could possibly see myself wanting to opt for a further reduced grip and different texturing pattern overall. I'm not sure if the current texturing could be reduced further and retextured, but for the purposes of this exercise we'll say it can't and I would have to buy a new one to achieve the desired effect. My question is: Assuming it runs 100%, if I were to replace my current grip, is it possible that slapping on a new one would affect the pistol's reliability or performance? Does anybody have any experience with this?
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Does anyone know the dimensions on a CZ tactical sport grip screw? I don't like the way they feel on the thin grips, thinking about a flat top allen type.
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Wondering who does a good grip reduction. Also, can you get a smaller grip reduction with the Gen 4 as opposed to the Gen 3? I tried emailing Grip Reductions . com but they never responded to me. Thanks for the help. Adam
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Just bought a m&p pro and like to make mods but I want it to be able to be used in idpa or uspsa but I see there's no stippling in idpa but u can use slip on grips. I want to know if texture is added to the grip when dura-coating ie. sand etc. which rule does that fall under?
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I've been watching a lot of the videos from this year's USPSA Nationals, and have noticed something while people transition between arrays. Assume that the distance between arrays is 3-4 steps, and no reload is performed between the arrays. Some people will let go of the gun with the weak hand while running between arrays, and some will keep the grip, but 'disengage' (disengage is my term for bringing the gun closer to one's chest). Are there times when you should do one or the other, or is it a preferences thing?
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Ok all you pistoleros, diagnose what I am doing wrong. Both of these targets were from 20 yards on a IDPA target with a 6" orange sticky in the middle. The first was seated from the bench and the 2nd was off hand & standing. I get that I am flinching or jerking the trigger on the off hand, but how it is that the results are high-right from the bench? Is there a bench rest technique that I need to learn? The ammo is all hand loads from the same batch (Precision Delta 147gn, 3.5gn N320, 1.140 OAL, 0.379 taper crimp, PF = 131). Shooting a Glock 34.
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This is a parts gun that I have been working of for awhile now, I had done some work to the feed ramps to make it fed better, worked well. I didn't care for the old style narrow grip safety and decided to get a beavertail grip, I did the fitting myself and found that I may have order the wrong grip safety. There is a noticeable gap in the frame and the safety, is this typical on GI Framed 1911s? It doesn't seem to bother my hand any when holding it, but it sure does look like ... you get the idea. The gap in the frame was there before started this project, is that normal? this is a cheap Interarms frame, there are so many machine marks through out, a lot of time was spent smoothing internal burs that seemed to catch on every moving part. I just want to know if this looks like a decent job, I got to get it refinished and that was all part of the project from the beginning, but I'd like to get some other 1911 owners input on how it looks so far, this is my first time doing anything gun-smithing, other than a trigger job, which is a lot easier than fitting the either safety and then blending any of it in.
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I'm new to shooting GLOCK pistols but am familiar with other striker fired pistols. I shoot the XDm quite well. I'm having a little bit of the typical left problem with my new Gen 4 34. My grip is more or less what BE describes in his book. I'm high on the grip with both thumbs forward. The slide is not lined up with my forearm as is necessary to shoot modified-isosceles. I have medium to large hands. In dry fire the large back strap seems to be best. My question is really about my strong hand 3 fingers. With the large back strap the middle bone of the finger is straight across the flat front of the grip. Is this correct? This seems like it produces the most natural grip with any level of gripping pressure and my fingers don't push the gun around. Thoughts on the placement of the strong hand fingers across the front strap?
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Does anyone have experience with using a DAA Race Master (with STI delrin block) and an undercut STI grip? It seems like it may affect the hold of the RM?
