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Blackstone45

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About Blackstone45

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  1. Agreed, snapcap thing is only to prove that they're flinching when they are adamant that they are not. Best way I think to help fix a flinch is a lot of dry firing to build that muscle memory of only moving your trigger finger.
  2. Wish it was affordable to get my hands on Steve's books in the UK
  3. After I got the LOK palm swell grips, my recoil management has never felt better
  4. Back in 2011, the CZ SP-01 Shadow was my first gun purchase, after reading a few reviews about it and getting a really good deal on one. Only this year am I finally replacing it with something else for competition shooting but it'll probably forever remain in my cabinet.
  5. Let my support hand wrist fully heal
  6. I have an update: So it turns out I don't have an overtravel screw in my trigger, there's just a hole there. I tried working the hammer with the trigger fully back and it felt pretty smooth. I did notice a new issue. When I pull the trigger, then rack the slide and gently let the trigger out to reset, if I then gently started to squeeze the trigger again, occasionally (about 1 in 5 times) I hear a click and the sear seems to begin to disengage. The hammer also moves a little. If I release the trigger there, the hammer will fall to half cock with the trigger. If I squeeze the trigger fully, the hammer drops as usual. Any ideas about this?
  7. And to confirm, that's the screw that's in the face of the trigger?
  8. Could you clarify what you mean by working the hammer? So pull the trigger all the way to the rear, and wiggle the hammer? Thanks all for your suggestions so far, will check the various screws in the morning
  9. Today during a match, my gun appeared to fire a second shot immediately after the first. This is obviously a problem. A month ago I did a deep clean of the gun, including taking the sear cage apart to clean it. Is it possible I didn't put it back together correctly, or does it need replacing? After the match I tried to reproduce the problem but wasn't able to, despite putting another 100 rounds through the gun. I'm also not ruling out the chance that I somehow bumpfired it? My SA trigger weight is around 3lb
  10. Yes the more mushy-feeling trigger compared to a crisp SA trigger will take dry firing to get used to.
  11. But 10.4.3 DQs you for a discharge while loading, reloading or unloading. So I don't think you could in good faith argue that you were still engaging targets if you loosed a shot after "if finished ULSC" when you were clearly unloading the gun.
  12. In Hwansik's recoil management video, there's a training technique to help isolate locking the strong hand wrist while keeping the fingers relaxed for trigger manipulation. I'll try to explain it as best as possible but it's better if you watch it. Hold your strong hand out like you're going to shake someone's hand. With your weak hand, try to rock the strong hand up and down while holding it at the wrist. If your wrist is locked correctly, you won't be able to rock the strong hand. To check that your fingers are relaxed, you can just feel the muscles in the strong hand. They should be soft and not hard.
  13. Yep you absolutely should be dry firing with the same grip as you would in live fire, because you'll get a nasty surprise when that recoil happens and the gun starts bouncing around in your hand.
  14. Hi all, please hear me out on this one. I'm shooting a PPC (not PCC) match this weekend and I have to use a club Glock 17. I'll be shooting out to 50yards using factory 124gr S&B 9mm. Am I correct in assuming that glocks are factory zeroed to 25yards? And if so, approximately how much do I have to hold over (or under?) at 50yards? I would work this out myself on the range if I could, but there are no opportunities for sighters.
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