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Frog Lube Issue, Gum Up


RedlandsShooter

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Hello All, Just wondering if anyone that uses Frog Lube CLP (liquid) for cleaning guns has experienced the product gumming-up when a gun is in storage for extended periods of time, like 6 months or more?  I recently experienced it with two shotguns, firing pins gummed up along with the hammer assemblies and on a Glock where the striker assembly and channel where gummed causing periodic light strikes.  In every case, when the gun is disassembled I found a sort of orange/brown gummy residue from the Frog Lube CLP.  Once cleaned the guns work great.  This only occurs when the guns are not used for extended periods, never experiencing it on weekly shooters.  

 

Has anyone had good experience with a particular CLP that is good for removing tough carbon residue and preserving while no gumming?

 

Thanks in advance for sharing any of your experiences.

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Froggy didn't work for me either.  I wanted to like it.  The Froggy fans just kept telling me to put it on and then wipe it all off. 

Followed the directions and gave it multiple tries, but whatever was left congealed over time and also slowed down in cold weather.  

It didn't get in the FP channel, but it got sticky inside a clean gun just sitting in the safe.  No bueno, Froggy. 

 

I like BreakFree CLP and M1.   Weapon Shield, Ballistol, EEZOX, and others are all fine if you just use them.

  

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4 hours ago, RedlandsShooter said:

Hello All, Just wondering if anyone that uses Frog Lube CLP (liquid) for cleaning guns has experienced the product gumming-up when a gun is in storage for extended periods of time, like 6 months or more?  I recently experienced it with two shotguns, firing pins gummed up along with the hammer assemblies and on a Glock where the striker assembly and channel where gummed causing periodic light strikes.  In every case, when the gun is disassembled I found a sort of orange/brown gummy residue from the Frog Lube CLP.  Once cleaned the guns work great.  This only occurs when the guns are not used for extended periods, never experiencing it on weekly shooters.  

 

Has anyone had good experience with a particular CLP that is good for removing tough carbon residue and preserving while no gumming?

 

Thanks in advance for sharing any of your experiences.

 

This issue came up not much over a year after it hit the market.

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20 hours ago, Darthrader18 said:

I use lucas extream duty products. I have actually been able to tell a differance using lucas compared to other products. and from what I have heard you are not the only person who has had issues with froglube. 

 

 

 

I really like the Lucas products. Their extreme duty greases are excellent. I haven't as much experience with oils. I have been using Mobil 1 and Royal Purple with good results for years. 

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We have actually forbidden the use of Frog Lube at our department for the reasons mentioned by the OP. Duty guns treated with Frog Lube, which sit in holsters and cars for long periods of time without use or attention, would show up to firearms training unable to function because they had become gummed up so badly. For the last couple years we have used Lucas Oil's CLP, Extreme Duty Gun Oil, and their Extreme Duty Grease. The stuff stays put without becoming gummy, and performs in all the awesome weather we deal with here in the NW. There are tons of other products that will work as well, but the point is....Frog Lube isn't a good way to go for guns you need to go bang when you need them to go bang.

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On 1/27/2018 at 2:53 PM, practical_man said:

Synthetic motor oil works well for me. 

;) Yup.  Strange there are those who think there is some magical oil that performs better than synthetic motor oil because it comes in a little bottle for a large price.  To go one further, I have run a particular diesel oil in my race bikes and street bikes for years.  450 motocross bikes, 1,000 cc road race bikes, and 1400cc sportbikes.  Not one oil related engine failure ever.  Once, the scavenge pump went out on one of the 450 motocross bikes and by the end of the race most of the oil got pumped out the breather.  Tore it down and didn't need to replace anything.  I am sure if it ran just a bit longer it would have been catastrophic, but considering, it performed extremely well.  Pretty sure the sliding parts in a firearm don't go through nearly the heat, pressures, and dirt an ICE produces.

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On 1/29/2018 at 10:00 PM, sitw said:

;) Yup.  Strange there are those who think there is some magical oil that performs better than synthetic motor oil because it comes in a little bottle for a large price.  To go one further, I have run a particular diesel oil in my race bikes and street bikes for years.  450 motocross bikes, 1,000 cc road race bikes, and 1400cc sportbikes.  Not one oil related engine failure ever.  Once, the scavenge pump went out on one of the 450 motocross bikes and by the end of the race most of the oil got pumped out the breather.  Tore it down and didn't need to replace anything.  I am sure if it ran just a bit longer it would have been catastrophic, but considering, it performed extremely well.  Pretty sure the sliding parts in a firearm don't go through nearly the heat, pressures, and dirt an ICE produces.

 

Rotella T6 synthetic 5-40 by any chance?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
27 minutes ago, Garmil said:

Everything I have ever used has worked just fine and I couldn't tell a difference between any of them..

 

This.

 

Synthetic high-temp bearing grease out of a tube meant for a grease gun, and plain old motor oil.

 

Works every bit as well as anything else, at 10% of the cost.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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