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Everything posted by mpom

  1. Have been running a 930 for about 5 years, and the 940 appears to be a 930 with lots of parts either sourced or copies of Oregon 3G upgrades. The ONLY reason I went w the 930 is low cost compared to competition, but the 940 is close to the 1301, another gas operated SG. OP, check out the 930 threads on BE.com to get a background, as it seems the 940 likely has similar if not identical issues to the 930. It took me a year or two to get the springs balanced, sharp corners and loading port sorted out, but now it is a sewing machine. Will it last as long as a 1301? Not likely but I am not a high volume SG user. So if you like to tinker and have some mechanical skills, the 940 MIGHT be a good choice, but if you want reliability from the start, unfortunately would recommend a 1301 or a recoil operated SG such as Benelli or Stoeger. Sad that Mossberg could not work out the bugs in the 940. Mark
  2. The gas port is on top of the barrel, the set screws on the bottom pull the gas block down, which usually eliminates gas leakage from barrel/gas block interface. A clamp on gas block self seals the gas port. A bit of leakage between gas tube and gas block is normal and expected, as mentioned above. Now some gas block use a cross pin to secure to barrel, just like the M16 you had, but you did not mention which gas block you have. Mark
  3. Reminds me of H&K chamber, which has longitudinal grooves. Agree, look inside sizing die, should be a smooth cylinder, no grooves. Then look at the cases that have not been resized, as they may have those grooves already in the cases. Finally, ask your friend where those cases came from. Range pickup, fired in his weapon, purchased? Odds are once resized, those cases will function fine, but strongly recommend you use a case gauge. I case gauge routinely, saves headaches, especially during a match. Mark
  4. The thread Lior linked to discusses the internal mechanics of striker fired pistols leading to what you are describing, which is happening in all your M&Ps, to varying degrees. Have you tried dry firing with a mag loaded with dummy rounds, to create upwards pressure on the slide? That would reduce/eliminate slide movement upwards when striker is released and recoil spring becomes unopposed by striker spring. As far as overtravel , are you saying significant overtravel would not affect poi, compared w same pistol and minimal overtravel? Not arguing, just trying to learn. Mark
  5. Are the fire control components OEM or Apex? Wondering how much overtravel your triggers have and if that is the cause of the muzzle movement with the break. If OEM trigger parts, you can try to make a temporary overtravel reducer to see if this is a factor. Can use double sided tape to hold a small piece of plastic to frame behind trigger, or if lots of overtravel, maybe tie a small zip tie around trigger... All my M&Ps have either Apex parts or JB Weld overtravel "bumps" and I only see the muzzle jump in dry fire if I loosen my grip. Mark
  6. Believe Apex has 2 sear springs, and I prefer the purple over the yellow. Puple one is actually stronger than OEM. Prefer it because the trigger pull with stock springs and Apex parts ends up at around 3.5 lbs. That is great for competition but 2 of my M&Ps are carry guns as well as IDPA match guns so prefer trigger pull closer to 4 lbs. Mark
  7. Thanks, Yekcoh. Actually running a M&P, very similar platform. Mark
  8. Any info on going from a typical OEM 17# to a 13# wrt to the questions the OP raised? Would one expect more red dot movement and frame battering? My very limited experience showed less gun bounce and perceived dot motion going from 17 to 13# recoil spring, single session, single handgun. Mark
  9. More details would be very helpful. Can you check and see if trigger resets with the slide off? That is, pull trigger towards frame hard, while keeping it there, push trigger bar to right so it disengages from sear. Then slowly release trigger and see if loop reengages the sear. Another possible issue is the striker not catching on the sear, thus no reset. Can you determine which scenario is occuring, or if its a different one altogether? Mark
  10. Suspect most here do their own installs and adjustments of Apex trigger components, and would be glad to offer help in diagnosing and correcting your issue, if you are interested, but if you want a gunsmith, suggest you check w Apex for a recommendation. Mark
  11. Maybe only 1 person mentioned the C3 early on, but I'll bet at least half a dozen have purchased one based on this thread. I know I did and suspect more did, based on requests for the discount code. Mark
  12. Agree, and at 25K rounds plus probably a bunch more of dry fire mag changes, not surprised a spring goes tits up. Makes sense to change all the springs in the gun and magazines. Mark
  13. I wonder if the bolt is actually pushing the new shell forward, only to have that shell not chamber, but stop dead, causing the bolt to bounce back and then get hung up on the next shell coming up from magazine. Suspect if the shell that stopped cold would have been chambered the bolt would have followed and locked. Can you reproduce this issue with dummy rounds? Have you checked for any sharp edges at chamber mouth that could catch the shell as it attempts to enter chamber? Mark
  14. I believe the OP is trying to shim the barrel extension onto the barrel, so barrel nut shim will not work, different dimensions. Mark
  15. Thats what I did for a friend. He got the kit which included springs and new sear and striker block. Trigger pull became smoother but not much lighter. Ended up removing some material from the sear to reduce engagement with striker, now its acceptable. Mark
  16. Sounds like you neeed to make a shim to take up the space, thus achieving reasonable torque between the barrel and barrel extension, prior to installing the pin. There are shims available for shimming barrel extension to front face of upper receiver, don't know if the dimensions match what you are seeking https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrel-hardware/washers/barrel-nut-shim-kit-prod96013.aspx, https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/barrel-parts/rifle-barrel-hardware/washers/barrel-nut-shim-kit-prod96013.aspx If not, 0.001 stock is very thin, can probably be cut with sharp scissors, just prone to bending and tearing, may want to use weak glue to attach to thick paper prior to cutting it to shape, so its easier to control. Let us know how it goes. Mark
  17. I dont know what Apex recommends but its easy enough. I first measure the opening with a feeler gauge, pick one 3 or 4 thousands smaller, place it in the opening and squeeze down, top of candy cane to the flat bar below with a smooth jawed pliers. The feeler gauge limits the new opening so its not squeezed closed too much. Rinse and repeat to get the results you want, but be forewarned that doing the above reduces overtravel, and you want just a bit. Mark
  18. Unless you install a weaker striker spring, which the flatly may or may not come with, primer ignition should not change.
  19. Another option is high temp low strength thread locker. Low strength so its not impossible to remove in future. If you place a dot of paint on bolt head and a matching dot on gas key so dots are next to each other, you will know if bolt has moved. Of course, totally unnecessary if you can locate a MOACKS tool. Mark
  20. If a longer gas system is the answer to softer shooting, then what is the result of gas tubes with a loop or two? Sounds like a simple modification without the added weight of a longer barrel. Mark
  21. Hamilton Bowen, Bowen Classic. If the revolver was assembled with overclocked barrel, shouldn't S&W fix it on their dime? Mark
  22. Adjustable gas block? Replace steel/tungsten buffer weights with aluminum ones? Above should set you back less than a $100. Mark
  23. Cannot find loading data for SP in 380ACP, anyone care to share? Thanks in advance, Mark
  24. After trying a few muzzle brakes and finding them either too blasty or creating too much muzzle depression, I settled on the Frank Proctor brake. More blast than a flash suppressor but less than most brakes, with pretty good performance. https://www.recoilweb.com/frank-proctors-new-muzzle-device-67177.html Unfortunately hard to find today, seems Troy no longer makes it. Did get good reviews in this comparison of various brakes https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/ar-15-muzzle-brake-shootout-3/ Mark
  25. My wife's is also very reliable, I did tweak it some, such as reducing hammer/sear engagement area to get a cleaner release, same weight as OEM, just less creep once the wall is reached. Also built up an overtravel stop on frame behind trigger w JB Weld, filed to proper size. Sweet shooter, she is considering it for CCW. Mark
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