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Everything posted by mpom

  1. With latest version I did not need to remove any material from muzzle end of barrel, only trim the part contacting breech face and the pad contacting locking block. After fitting 1911 barrels, thisbwill be a walk in the park for you, just watch the videos by Apex. They recommend a hard fit, where initially you need a few lbs of pressure on rear of slide to complete return to battery. Slide closes fine during live fire.
  2. I assume the part starts as a casting, so that deformity is probably the sprue cut off. Not hard to round off with a stone. Mark
  3. There is an "H" marked trigger bar for the gen 1 m&p, supposedly the newest version, perhaps that is what is meant by heavy. Got mine from Brownells. Mark
  4. Since the 22Compact is a single action system, I removed material from the hammer to reduce engagement and what is perceived as creep. Even w polishing, trigger pull is not much lighter, around 4 lbs, but much shorter. I also built up a small dome of JB weld behind trigger on the frame, which I sanded down till hammer is released, to reduce over travel. Trigger pull is much improved. Mark
  5. Agree, a JP can be set up to be super crisp, as in no takeup, minimal to imperceptible travel and no overtravel, reset is about .03". Plus with hardened components, does not change over time. Does take some time to install and adjust.
  6. mpom

    little Help

    Am far from a great shooter but found out a "skinny" front sight not very accurate, perhaps because so much light on each side leads to inconsistent alignment w rear, compared to narrow light bands. Mark
  7. mpom


    Also running Glock striker springs, no noticeable increase in trigger pull weight, probably because in the M&P the trigger pull only rotates the sear, does not push striker back compressing striker spring, unlike the Glock system, which does further compress striker spring. Wolf 5.5 or 6lb Glock striker springs usually available from Brownells, or Wolff directly.
  8. If the loaded cartridges enter and fall out of the case gauge without effort, would not worry about rotation, think they will enter and fall out of the barrel when firing. Just test fire before the match. Mark
  9. Think you will find the info in the correct subforum, namely "1911 style pistols".
  10. Well, at the sale price for the new 135 gr bullet I ordered some, .357 diameter, will hopefully play nice w the Apex barrel in my M&P and the OEM S&W barrel in another pistol. Reasonable shipping charge makes it a no brainer. Mark
  11. 620 makes more sense for barrel installation as its rated for higher temperature than 609, I would think.
  12. Have you tried a different magazine for the lock back test? I assume with an empty mag the action locks back when pulling back on charging handle. While its apart see if you can blow compressed air through the gas tube to be sure its it's clear.
  13. A couple of things I would check while waiting for the gas tube to arrive: is the gas key showing signs of gas blow by as would happen if its 2 bolts were loose? Do the bolt rings pass the stand up test, where you pull the bolt out and stand the assembled bolt carrier group on the bolt? Bolt should not collape into BC if rings are good. Does the action operate smoothly when pulling charging handle back fully and lock into battery when CH is released slowly? Similar force required compared to another rifle/carbine? Does BCG move freely with upper separated from lower? Something is not right and I feel your frustration at trying to solve the issue
  14. Doubt it's the muzzle device. Gas tubes are cheap, worth replacing, especially if old one has high round count. If rifle runs well and locks on empty w original gas block, and empties are ejected between 3 and 5 O'clock, then I would call it good as you really dont want less gas then that. So basically you are out the cost of the AGB.
  15. Now that you have the gas block alignment sorted out, I would look at the action spring and buffer. Are you sure the rifle length one is "normal" strength and not "extra" or "plus" strength? Also, if this is a race gun rather than an alll purpose home defense/race gun, a lighter weight buffer would reduce reciprocating mass and rifle movement during recoil. Since the rifle ran well with 223 ammo with the non adjustable gas block, wonder if there is something wrong with the SLR, as WFO it should mimic the fixed one in gas flow. What does SLR say? Most important, personally would not run the gun with carbine buffer and spring as gas key might impact the upper receiver in its rearward travel.
  16. Sounds like there is no dimple on the bottom of barrel to help center the GB over the gas port, so you need to find a way to center it. Hole in gas block should always be larger than gas port in barrel. Pencil lines parallel to bore bisecting the gas port and gas block opening is how I line up the gas block to get concentric matching of holes. Cannot tell from photo but it's possible gas block is covering a small portion of gas port. No stiction or deflection of end of gas tube entering gas key on bolt carrier, and inside of gas tube clear? Mark
  17. Check the gas port diameter, if the gas block is sitting properly (coaxial circles surrounding gas port) and the gas tube is totally clear and seals well against gas key. Not sure of current recommendations on rifle length gas port diameters, but not hard to find on M4carbine.net. Mark
  18. After smoothing out the engagement surfaces on my 2 M&Ps I noticed smoother and easier capture of mags during a reload, not what you are attempting to accomplish but a welcome side effect. Mark
  19. Sounds like Gen 2 has a brighter dot/horseshoe plus a slightly different reticle, ATSR4, vs ATSR1 for the Gen1. Mark
  20. Going to purchase the Gen 2 Midas BTR, compare it to the RT-6 and sell the least liked one, probably the RT-6 Just need some time for shoulder to heal before I am cleared to resume shooting, couple of months.
  21. Thanks BD, that info is helpful. I really like the new BTR reticle called ASTR4. if you helped design it, congrats!. Currently running a Burris RT-6, my 1st 1-6 power scope and wonder if the PST and BTR gen 2s have better glass? The RT-6 has some fisheye @ 1 power and the reticle is a bit busy for my taste, so curious if the other 2 are a step up in optical quality since they are also more expensive. Mark
  22. Has anyone compared the Midas BTR gen 2 1-6 to the PST gen 2 1-6? Seems like a fair comparison as they are close in price. I can tell from the specs/online info that the Vortex is a bit heavier, has a smaller center dot and made in the Philippines vs China, but would appreciate any feedback on differences in clarity, brightness or other optical quality. Thanks in advance, Mark
  23. Think the blow out price on the Athlon Midas BTR 1-6 is because a new version, Gen 2, is coming out. Makes the budget scope choice even more difficult Gonna stick with my Burris RT-6 till something is out that is significantly better at less than twice its price. Mark
  24. Which part of the striker broke? No issues with thousands of cycles on my striker, Wolff extra power striker spring. Mark
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