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practical_man

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About practical_man

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    Calls Shots

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    Kansas
  • Real Name
    john dejarnette

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  1. This will do it mechanically https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/lead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx there are several home brew alternatives to the Lewis lead remover. IMO, the genuine article and soft brass screens is cheap enough compared to the cost of damaging a barrel.
  2. I have a 550 and a Square Deal. Both are good machines. I prefer the 550 and manual index over the auto index of the SDB. Personal preference. I would offer that a good light on your reloading station is more important than a powder check station. Something to consider. I had a Lee turret Press and gave it away. Still have a couple of RCBS single stage presses I picked up along the way. Whether you choose a 550 or 750 you will be much happier with those than Lee
  3. Threaded holes work great for me. I can drill and tap a rail section anywhere I want it. mLok and KeyMod are great if you’re constantly changing accessory configuration
  4. Case wall thickness and diameter of expander ball are the likely culprits. Sorting by headstamp is my solution. I also quit using Remington brass except for mid range wadcutter target loads. Have you shot some to see if you’re actually getting recoil induced bullet pull?
  5. and what is that quiet compressor? i have a small Senco that I use with trim nailers. It’s a cold blooded and loud beast but otherwise ok. Looking for something quieter that doesn’t require half a dozen circuit resets in cold weather. Ideally it would run a framing nailer too, but trim nailer is good enough. noise with framing isn’t as bad since it doesn’t echo in yet to be built walls
  6. Ask your doctor or PT A recent accident tore supraspinatus, long bicep, and several tendons in shoulder as well as humerus fracture. Painful. Slow recovery. I cannot yet tolerate recoil or satisfactorily manipulate a pistol. Doc says eventually it will get better as I recruit auxiliary muscles to do the job of damaged ones. Repair surgery might or might not help. I’m deferring surgery for now. To make things easier on my doc we talk in terms of ability to do construction work: holding a nail gun overhead, lifting in the wind, etc. Some docs can be squeamish about guns.
  7. 2As What are some preferred Athlon vendors? thanks -John
  8. Thanks. I have been looking at the Athlon quite a bit. Mixed reviews are what initially kept me from buying one. Some years ago My initial foray into optics wasn’t fruitful. I purchased a couple of mid priced scopes that turned out to be lemons. Once burned, twice shy. I will look at Athlon again. Might be the ticket.
  9. Looking for opinions on a decent mid-tier optic for moderate ranges. Primary use will be experimenting with Rimfire Long Range shooting. Possibly transition to a cneterfire rifle later. Budget is a constraint so top shelf optics are out of reach. (I know, buy once and cry once or buy cheap and cry twice. Still, kids complain bitterly when you don’t feed them so budget matters.) would like to stay below the $1k price point. Looking for something like 4x on the low end, 15x or so on the high end. Not stuck on these magnifications though. In my limited experience with optics I like the ability to find targets at lower power and Zoom as required. First Focal Plane, side focus, repeatable adjustments, and durable are required features. Would like to stick with mil reticle and mil adjustments. Plenty of elevation is also helpful, thought I plan to use a tapered scope base to add some elevation for longer ranges. also interested in advice about bases and rings. First experiment will be with a Savage MK 2 FV. I can shoot out to about 500 yards locally. The idea is to practice with the rimfire on wind calls and accurate ranging with the reticle. I’m a complete novice in longer range rifle work. Please help me get started with decent gear for the task that won’t break either budget or morale. thanks -John
  10. I like this stock as well. Bought a couple from PA on sale. Good fit without a lot of wobble.
  11. Frog Togs are good for light duty and cheap enough. Other poly coated nylon products are more durable, Fashionable, and expensive. Depending on your need it may be worth investing in a rain suit. I recommend against gore Tex or similar products. GoreTex is mostly hype. I’ve worn the issued ECWES since the first generation came out in late 80s. It’s neither breathable nor rain proof. Sweat doesn’t magically evaporate through the pores and water leaks in the seams. I’ve also tried several brands of commercial GoreTex rain gear and boots. All expensive. All uniformly disappointing performance. I advise friends to avoid GoreTex and similar products. Buy good poly coated nylon wet weather gear for when you are stationary. When moving you will sweat and be wet anyway, so stow the snivel fear and get to work. Put on snivel gear at the halt. Warmth. A mid or light weight polar fleece type jacket is useful. Relatively durable. Effective insulation. Inexpensive. Doesn’t stop wind at all, so you may need another layer under or over it. Layers are the important part of dressing for the cold. Cotton absorbs water and chills you, so avoid cotton fabrics when you expect to be cold and wet (unless working around flame hazards that cause synthetics to melt). Wool is better, but expensive and a pain in the neck to care for. Footwear shouldn’t be neglected in cold and wet conditions. Good traction is always important. Properly treated leather hiking boots work well. All that said, I don’t shoot matches in the rain or mud because it’s neither fun nor safe to run around in the mud. I did that for a living once, people got hurt often from falls. Bad juju. Rain gear for a light shower is a different matter.
  12. Stick makes good suggestions. buy a chronograph today. Measurement tools are important to Handloading. A chrono is useful for checking performance and safety. A decent one can be had on sale for around $100 from the usual retailers. I have a Caldwell and a magnetospeed. The latter doesn’t work well with pistols. I’m looking seriously at a LabRadar for convenience. good calipers. Good beam scale. Both are important. Clean your brass before sizing. I just dry tumble my brass is corn cob media from the local welding supply. A little liquid car wax added to the media keeps the dust down and adds some shine. Wet tumbling was not for me. When developing your load, chamber check in your guns. They are the ultimate go-no go gauge and you already have paid for them. Plunk test is a good start. Buy components in small batches till you find out what work for you. Some Bullet profiles can be problematic in some chambers. Once you find what works, buy in bulk and on sale. I get primers and powder from Powder Valley in Kansas, Natchez in Tennessee, , Brownellsand occasionally Mid South. Always on sale. Always when a free of cheap hazmat fee. Of note, Hornady Action Pistol bullets come on sale in the spring and fall. They’re good bullets for semi auto pistols, and can be had for around $0.10 delivered to your door when on sale. Sadly they don’t make HAPs for revolvers so we have to wait for the nearly unobtainable Zero brand JHP for wheel guns. precision delta JHPs have also been accurate for me. They have occasional sales. Lead or coated bullets are cheaper. Various opinion on different suppliers. I’ve tried a bunch. They’re all about the same as far a smoke and fouling. Some are more consistent diameter than others. Bayou Bullets have been decent performers for me. There are a ton of powder choices that work in 9mm. I’ve been experimenting with BE-86 as a low flash alternative to power pistol. It seems promising. Try a few and see what you like. Then buy a couple 8 pound jugs of that. Primers. everyone has opinions on this. I’ve settled in Winchester for auto loaders and Federal for revolvers. Federal are softer so they work well in match revolvers. I think they are too soft for high pressure open gun loads, other have different opinions. Winchester Primers work, are consistent performers, and generally available. I have used CCI primers with good results; they seem to have a harder cup and require a form hammer strike to light them. Great for Service Rifle loads. as a side note, I tried some Eastern European primers during the great Scarcity in the 44th POTUS regime. Mixed results. Not worth the trouble as long as the major US brands are available. Best advice: Take your time and learn deliberately. Get a notebook and document everything about your process and components. That way you can make adjustments based on recorded data, rather than recollection. Get a mentor to help you. My current notebooks also include cost data. I didn’t always do that, but it seems worthwhile now. You should only record data that you will actually use. That’s likely to change over time. machine maintenance is important. Clean and lube your loader on a schedule you can support. It saves headaches. I use the calendar rather than round count.
  13. Blindfire I wouldn’t recommend trying this with a dremel. I speak from some experience in that regard. It can be done that way but it takes a bunch of sanding wheels and quite some hand sanding to polish things out. Not efficient. Prone to error. Holding the parts and dremel at the same time is a challenge even with a good bench vise. The deburring wheels Toolguy uses are a little spendy but they are great for all sorts of metal working jobs. Even touching up your edged tools for the yard. They are efficient and leave a nice finish. Real time savers. If you have a bench grinder or dedicated buffer the 3m wheels are great. Toolguy is a fantastic machinist and exceptional revolver operator/builder. If he tells you something you can bank on it.
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