Super 1050 ~ Poorly Made

[swhitney]

Well after running about 5000 rounds through a brand new 1050 I have this to say:

This machine is poorly made and does not perform as advertised. Many of the parts are cheap stamped Chinese sheet steel, the springs are equally low quality. The machine rarely goes 300 rounds without some sort of malfunction.

Here is a brief list of the headaches this machine deals out on a regular basis:

1) This machine cannot accurately meter Varget into a 223 case. The drop tube fails to settle the powder to any sort of consistent height in the case. Powder chunks are flying all over the place when the shell plate advances as powder frequently clogs at the neck.

2) The powder measure is very poorly made...with some of the most inferior metal to be found, ultra sloppy tolerances topped off with generally poor engineering to begin with. The powder adjustment nut is a coarse threaded machine bolt that can change a load by as much as 4 grains with less then 10 degrees of rotation. All of this adds up to powder flying all over, inconsistent loads and overall very poor performance.

3) The powder warning extra is useless on 223 with this powder measuring system. The loads are never consistently at the same height in the case either due to bridging at the neck, or inconsistent drop tube settling in the case. If you load 223 with Varget save your money on this useless accessory.

4) The wrench that came with the machine is a complete joke and was bent within a day or two of tightening and loosening die nuts. When you spend close to 2000 dollars you would think you get something other then a cheap piece of die cut Chinese crap steel.

5) The primer feed slide and primer feed are constantly a problem. Primers flipped over, crushed, warped are some of the problems. As to the flipped over primers that might be the primer tube loader I bought for a couple of hundred bucks, but then that is still a Dillon issue isn't it. If you tighten the primer drop tube assembly the slide seizes up completely in the channel.

6) The case feeder mis-feeds about 1 case in 20. Either the case is destroyed or it fails to find its home in the shell plate.

7) The primer pocket swager does NOT swage the pocket. Despite dozens of attempts and trying all permutations of adjustment it simply leaves the ragged edge of a crimped pocket. Needless to say this has caused primer seating issues. I am forced to use only un-crimped cases with this machine. It will not handle any sort of crimped case.

8) When originally assembling the machine, the machining (drill-tap) for the post studs that hold the case feeder upright post were so poorly performed that the post studs were 3/16" wider when screwed in. One stud had to be bent downward in order to bolt the post to the studs. I had visions of some worker at the Dillon plant using a Sears Craftsman cordless drill to drill out the base for the studs.

9) If (when) the case feeder throws a case into the tube upside down, the design of the case feeder cut off switch is such that the last case in the tube prevents removal of the tube. Poor design and engineering.

10) The tool head, due to the system of linkages and poor tolerances of engineering in the pivot joints allows the the entire tool head to slop left and right up to 4 degrees of rotation horizontally. This causes unnecessary wear and tear, constantly loosening Allen heads and various adjustments. I expected for 2000 dollars to have a machine that whose machining and tolerances were much higher. Very disappointing.

==========================================

Now before some of the local board jockeys jump in and start pointing me at the various hacks and fixes posted on this board such as 'shimming' the primer feed tube, polishing the drop tube, after market powder bars etc etc etc...

The point of this post is to bring to the attention of potential 1050 buyers that you are buying a broken machine the day you take delivery. It does not work as advertised, is poorly made...poorly designed, poorly engineered and the machining quality is horrible.

CW

Edited April 15, 2008 by swhitney

[al503]

Sorry to hear about your issues. 1050's are great but they are definitely not perfect. Out of the three 1050's I've had (still have 2 of them) I haven't had 10% of the issues you've had with all three of them combined. However, you seem to be loading rifle ammo with crimped primer pockets. I've never loaded rifle ammo (I've never shot a rifle before either) so this may be another animal entirely.

I love these things. Being able to pump out a comfortable and sustainable 800 rounds/hour of .40's and have every single one of them mic out between 1.220-1.221" is very gratifying. I wouldn't consider loading on any other machine including the 650 that is collecting dust in the closet.

Hope you get your issues resolved. Perhaps a fellow shooter in your area that may have more experience with the 1050 can lend a hand.

[DonT]

Sorry to hear about all the problems you are having. I assume you've contacted Dillon with your complaints? And what was their response?

[bruce282]

Popcorn anyone ?

Bruce

[AikiDale]

tick....tick....tick....

Before the hammer falls let me suggest that many, many of us have loaded many, many rounds on 1050's and would not go back to other presses. It is possible you got a lemon, or, it has some maladjustment or faulty part, in which case the nearly universal experience with Dillon has been a good one.

I'm with DonT on this one, what happened when you spoke with the folks at Dillon?

Are you just grumpy because it is TAX DAY?

[JThompson]

Popcorn anyone ?

Bruce

Edited April 15, 2008 by JThompson

[Alan Meek]

This will be a short one for sure just about long enough to enjoy a cold one

[Flexmoney]

I see no reason to close the thread folks. So quit drifting it and spilling pop-corn all over the place.

- Admin.

[GmanCdp]

he may have a valid point...but it should be moved to the "what i hate" section

[Flexmoney]

Let me give some direction. It wouldn't be allowed in the what I hate section. And, if it turns out to just be using the forum as a soap-box to air 'customer service' issues, then it won't be allowed on the forum at all.

As it stands now, it is information and discussion about shooting related gear.

Maybe we can stick to comments on the subject at hand...

- Admin

[jmorris]

I’m not sure if you are just trying to flame or are looking for solutions.

You wouldn’t go buy an airplane and try to fly it without reading the manual would you? No extruded powers with the Dillon measure, the Hornady measure with the case activated drop is one solution if you add a baffle and remember there is no failsafe rod. Use a spherical powder and your life will be less stressful.

If the measure that came with your machine will change 4 grains with only 10 degrees of rotation, you definitely need to stop using it and send it back. If my math is right that’s 144 grains in one turn!

I don’t use the powder check with .223 either replace it with a KISS feeder instead.

You got a wrench?

Not sure about your primer problem. I’d try reading the manual and set the swage properly and that should fix the crushed/warped ones. Then get out the instructions for the RF100 and set it up correctly and your flipped problem should go away.

The only reason I bought the 1050 was for the swage operation, if you can’t set it up correctly send it back. You shouldn’t live without it.

I too had the case feeder issues you bring up, all of mine went away after I mounted the machine on a bench that didn’t move (yeah, I know thats in the instructions too).

The tool head has locating dowels to ensure alignment as the various operations are performed what Allen head fasteners are loosing up?

If you really can’t stand it one bit, I’ve got a brand new in the box LNL AP I’ll swap you. Well the powder measure is used but it will meter Varget.

[GentlemanJim]

Imperfect...everything is

The 1050 HAS to be set up and adjusted very well...most problems can be traced back to an error in adjustment.

I dont care for the swage function...brass is too inconsistant for it to work real well...and I dont want to sort and readjust

I prep all rifle cases individually

Primer issues can be a pain...but again its setup

I wore my case feeder out..Dillon replaced it with the current model(much different from original)

For a while it was droping cases upside down(1 in 50 or so) but has stoped doing it after a while.

If in fact some machine work is incorrect ...I would bet Dillon will repair or replace it.

But you know...That wrench...it sucks...what is that all about??

Hope you get it all together

Jim

[cnjaxx]

I have had problems with my Dillons, I would probably loose the argument, if I tried to place blame for the porblems, on anyone but myself. My experience is to first read the instruction manual, and read it again, while you're doing your setup.

I would also like to add that Dillon has always walked me through the problems, even though there would have been no problem, if I would have taken the time to read the book.

I don't know of a better product, or a company that will stand behind their products than Dillon.

[XRe]

I'm not going to tell the OP that he's wrong I have maybe 300 rounds worth of stick time on a 1050, so anything 1050 specific I really know nothing about anyway...

I would agree that, for spending the kind of coin we do on the machines, you'd think some things could be a bit better. The powder measure could definitely have a finer adjustment screw to the powder bar. I know Dillon doesn't offer a powder bar adjustment that's "repeatable" for liability reasons. FWIW, I find the UniqueTek micrometer powder bar to be just the ticket for both issues for pistol - I presume that for rifle it would be equally beneficial.

The build of the powder measure works fine for most stuff, but Varget has been one of those powders that just doesn't like to meter for most folks. The cleanup that I've seen done on the Dillon powder measure to flow Varget smoothly would jump the price of the powder measure up a bunch (likely double). Its unfortunate that a very popular powder for 5.56 also happens to show the flaw in the powder measure...

I've also run into goofy stuff like mounting bolts not quite lining up with things, and bent sheet steel parts not quite fitting together correctly, and yeah, I'd like to think that they'd arrive flawless and smooth, too, but.... such is life in the big city, unfortunately.

You bent the wrench tightening dies?!?!?! Yowza... You might over tightening those dies and lock nuts a hair, then?

Dillons aren't perfect... but, believe it or not, they do seem to be better than the competition, overall... One of the strengths is their customer service (as others have said above). I would encourage you to give them a shout, and see if they can help you out. The 1050 is reasonably complex, and I understand it might need some initial adjustment to get it squared away - the guys at Dillon know their stuff in that regard.

As far as ammo production goes, the next closest thing to the 1050 is quite a bit more expensive, so... In some ways, following some tweaks, its still the best game in town, vs. spending 3-4 times more to get high output... My grandfather would have said the things not broken... just in need of some improvement...

[warpspeed]

Something does not seem quite right here.

I have loaded 10K + rounds of 223 with Varget on my 1050.

I have processed at least twice that much military brass as well.

1) My experience with Varget in 223 has been very good. Make sure you are using the large powder bar. It is not perfect and I do occasionaly get bridging and spilled powder but it is not so bad that I would change powders. Stick powders are notorious for metering problems. There are several good ball powders for 223. Perhaps you should try one of them.

2) My powder measures, all 4 of them, throw within 0.1 gr without fail. Maybe you got a bad one ?

3) Can't speak to the powder warning - don't have one.

4) I have never found the need to wrench on the press so hard that would bend the wrench.

5) The primer feed slide and primer feed on my press has been flawless. I read the directions and it works 100%.

6) The case feeder on my press has never mis-feed unless it was dirty. Sounds like debris, most likely powder, on the shell plate. Compressed air will do the trick.

7) The primer pocket swager is a PITA to get adjusted but once adjusted the way they described in the manual, it removes the crimp nicely.

8) I'm having a hard time with this one - perhaps a picture ?

9) Unless you have modified it, the whole thing moves up on the post, providing clearance. Lift gently and the clearance needed is there.

10) That sound wrong. My tool head does not "pivot".

If you are having problems, call Dillon. They are very good at standing behind their products.

[Jman]

Now before some of the local board jockeys jump in and start pointing me at the various hacks and fixes posted on this board such as 'shimming' the primer feed tube, polishing the drop tube, after market powder bars etc etc etc...

The point of this post is to bring to the attention of potential 1050 buyers that you are buying a broken machine the day you take delivery. It does not work as advertised, is poorly made...poorly designed, poorly engineered and the machining quality is horrible.

CW

Your opinions are appreciated. I'm sure that Dillon will work with you to resolve each of your concerns. Let us know how this all works out.

Jim M

[Rob Boudrie]

First off, Dillon will take the 1050 back if you don't like it. My feelings about my 1050 are more of the "my cold deal reloading room" variety.

Some valid points are made - the powder measure (the part that attaches to the plastic hopper) does appear to be made out of a low grade metal, and the stamped sheet metal wrench is pretty close to useless - two minor details not in keeping with the otherwise excellent quality of the machine. I don't see any of the tolerance issues that are mentioned though, and mine has been working wonderfully for 15+ years. The only part that "wore out" was the lever that moves the primer bar - it took a slight bend and didn't fully move the powder bar. On cheap part later (remember, the 1050 warrantee is limited, not lifetime) my press was as good as new.

[hitman]

I am going to bite the bullet and help you out sw.

I will give you ONE HUNDRED US DOLLARS and pay for shipping the broken down 1050 to my door.

[tightloop]

I am going to bite the bullet and help you out sw.

I will give you ONE HUNDRED US DOLLARS and pay for shipping the broken down 1050 to my door.

Man, I am really surprised that Merlin isn't in on this one already...bet he'd go $110.00 at least...

[dillon]

switney,

I am sorry you are encountering some apparent problems with your 1050. In order of your listings,

Prefix) All parts of all Dillon reloading machines are made in the US of A, using American made steel, including the springs.

1) With attention to proper technique for an extruded powder, you can drop Varget powder charges within +/- .2 grain.

You have to pull the handle down more slowly, giving powder time to FALL through the funnel, and not be pushed through the

funnel by the powder above it. If you insist on loading 223 just like a handgun, then change to a ball/spherical powder.

You do not say what variation in powder charge you are getting, but it sounds like you may be "slapping" the handle instead

of making a smooth cycle, lifting the handle up at the same speed you pull it down.

2) Regarding the powder measure, by what definition is the measure material poor or faulty? We have been using zinc casting alloy to

make our powder measures for over 25 years. Choice of material is irrelevent. The bolt thread for the powder bar adjustment is a 1/4-28, or FINE thread. If a 10 degree adjustment gives you a 4 grain change in weight, then it sounds like the powder bar is not fully travelling.Contact us for assistance in adjusting the powder measure.

3) The powder check can tell you several things;not just if the powder level in the case is high or low. It also tells you if there is debris in your case,

causing the powder level to appear excessive. If you feel it is unnecessary, contact whomever you purchased it from and arrange a refund.

4) Tightening die lock rings is not the same as tightening the head bolts of a Chevy small-block. Die lock rings just need to be snugged, not torqued down.

If you bent a wrench then you are overtightening. Contact us for a replacement.

5) regarding primer feeding, I suggest you cycle the handle without brass in the shellplate and remove the primer when it comes up. See

if primers are sitting straight on top of the primer punch as they come up through the shellplate. Next, push down on the edge of the shellplate

by the bullet seating station. If it feels springy, then the shellplate lock ring needs to be tightened. At the priming station there is a white plastic wedge. This wedge should almost, but not quite touch the case. Set it so it is within .002" or so of touching the case.

6)You aren't clear, but it sounds like the problem you are encountering is the cases being pushed into the shellplate. This is most likely related

to the shellplate locking adjustment referred to under 5)

7) Properly adjusted, the swager does remove the crimp from a primer pocket, and leave a smooth, radiused entryway. I am at a loss to understand how the smoothly radiused end of the swage rod can inflict a ragged edge. The instructions are pretty much step by step. As a visual aid, take a deprimed case,

color the primer pocket with a black sharpie. You can then watch the progress of the swager as you adjust it upward. Properly set, it takes noticeably greater effort to operate the handle down with a crimped case than with uncrimped case.

8) The mounting post does not rest on the table. There is no reason to bend the stud, there is sufficient room to align everything.

9) Simple solution-turn off the motor, work the case feed plunger by hand to remove a case, THEN remove the tube.

10) The hardened toolhead pins are what aligns the toolhead and the shellplate. I fail to understand how the toolhead float is a poor design.It is there

to allow alignment to remain constant even if uneven or unusual wear occurs elsewhere in the linkage, increasing the useful life of the machine.

This limited toolhead movement won't loosen anything, or cause adjustments to wander.

We are happy to assist you in getting your machine to function properly. We are equally happy to give you a refund if you really feel our machine

is the poorly designed, poorly made broken machine you proclaim it to be.

[el pres]

I load Varget also and everybody I know does not because it doesnt meter well. Most people stay away

from extruded powders with progressive presses. Varget can work well but you have to have patience when

makeing your initial adjustments. I load on a 650 but the metering quality is the same.

When you adjust the powder bar you need to make very small adjustments and when you ck the charge

you need to have a case installed in every position so that the presure on the shellplate is as it will be loading.

Then recheck and adjust for the first 10-20 cases while loading also.

There is nothing out there better then a Dillion except for one a time handloads on a RockChukker, for consistancy

anyway. You need to step back and learn everything about the machine for a week or so or I'll take off your hands for

$200.00+ shipping right now!!!

[Tom S.]

I took the time to read back through all of SWHITNEY's postings and think I have found the major problem in his earliest post:

"I am not at all intimidated by the learning curves on any of these machines...though I have no experience in progressive center fire machines...I am sure I can handle it."

No progressive press is perfect - period. All will require set up, tweaks and even (gasp) user modification. If you lack experience, this can lead to exactly the kind of comments he has posted. This is doubly true if you either don't seek help or disreguard it when offered:

"So your suggesting that the 1500 dollar piece of equipment I just purchased requires modification in order to work properly?

Perhaps I ought to send the parts to Dillon for repair?

I appreciate your suggestion, but do you really think that is acceptable?"

I would suggest using one of the following courses of action:

A. Have someone who is experienced with this reloader look at it, operate it, and explain how to use it. Pay attentention why they are there and listen to what they say.

--OR--

B. Send the reloader back. Buy any of the competitor's and use it.

Edited April 15, 2008 by Tom S.

[D.Hayden]

For number 9

9) If (when) the case feeder throws a case into the tube upside down, the design of the case feeder cut off switch is such that the last case in the tube prevents removal of the tube. Poor design and engineering.

Dillon:

9) Simple solution-turn off the motor, work the case feed plunger by hand to remove a case, THEN remove the tube.

Also.. there's a hole below the case feeder.. I use a peice of small welding rod.. you can push the cases up (after pulling back the plunger) far enough to remove the tube easily...

[Rob Boudrie]

Regarding the powder measure, by what definition is the measure material poor or faulty?

In the old days, the nub on which the actuator level (the trianguar doohickie) pushes to engage was not secured at both ends and it would, with time, break off. Design improvements have resolved that issue and the nub is now secured at both ends so it's not serving as a lever arm looking to break.

This is a case where the material is fully up to the functional requirement of the job (I haven't broken one since the design improvement) however, some people recognize the difference between "just good enough" and "the best material" - just as some care about the difference between 4340 and 4140 on a carbon steel gun. I don't consider zinc castings to be a high grade material for anything, but then, not everything needs high grade material.

[racerba]

nevermind

Edited April 15, 2008 by racerba