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Super 1050 ~ Poorly Made


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I treated myself to a S1050 .45 ACP and have really liked it, but it has not been trouble free.

The primer feed took a lot of tinkering. I don't know what I did right, but I hit the sweet spot and it has performed generally well since. I had some off-center mashed primers recently and peered at the primer feed and the crimp swage without finding the fault. I eventually noticed that the little white plastic wedge at the priming station was loose. I ran it up nearly to the case and tightened the screw, which seems to have fixed it.

Mine came with the early short straight advance lever. Operation was jerky. I learned on this board that there was a new part and it would be provided upon request. The first flunky I got on the Dillon phone wanted to charge me $73 for it, but I got through to somebody with the clout to send me the right piece, which smoothed things up considerably.

Ball and small flake powder meter well. I wanted to use 700X for commonality with my shotgun, but its flake size is large enough to cause trouble. I applied a bandaid learned from the cowboy shooters. I strapped a cheap acquarium air pump to the powder hopper and it vibrates enough to settle the powder into the bar cavity and give fair to good measuring. When the 700X supply is down to cover just my occasional round of trap or skeet, I will go to something finer.

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The wrench is a POS

The pot metal is cheesy

The damned thing can really be aggravating when it's not adjusted correctly

but

By a large margin it is the best reloader available to "real" people.

I whined, I cried, and BOY did I cuss when I first started using one...For a while I thought life was better with one of the other Dillon machines... I stuck it out and learned how to and what to and why and finally got the feel of the machine and then life became beautiful.

IMO... :cheers:

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Mine is a really old RL1000 and it too is delicate and tempermental to adjust...I try not to fool with it unless it is really buggered up. But like Merlin said, when it is running and I have it lubed and tuned, it is great.

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The wrench is a POS

The pot metal is cheesy

The damned thing can really be aggravating when it's not adjusted correctly

but

By a large margin it is the best reloader available to "real" people.

I whined, I cried, and BOY did I cuss when I first started using one...For a while I thought life was better with one of the other Dillon machines... I stuck it out and learned how to and what to and why and finally got the feel of the machine and then life became beautiful.

IMO... :cheers:

I can add one more thing about any reloader, it's a tool, a machine. You cant compare it to

an easybake oven, no pushing buttons here, but you could compare it to a power saw !! It cuts wood well

but it does'nt cut the wood for you!! :devil:

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Just heard this past weekend from a fellow shooter that his last batch of Varget wouldn't drop like his previous lots. Might I suggest a blender to make grains smaller :D . Just kidding of course!

I have heard many instances of Varget having inconsistent burn rates lot to lot. I guess you just have to be careful and more patient with extruded powders. I have no problems at all dropping Benchmark, N133, or N135.

Nick

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On the powder measure material...Zinc based casting alloy is actually quite a nice material for such

any other manufacturing process with a simular cost would be plasic.... it could be done in stainless for 10x the cost.

I love my old 1050 :wub: and Dillon has been quite good to me!

Im just contemplating...my status as a Board Jockey :blink:

Jim

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Mine got out of tune last night and I spent some time today getting it back in tune.

Those FREAKIN' "NT" primers are at fault.

I sent an e-mail to the guy I bought the brass from.

Final count was 103 pieces of "NT" brass in a box of 2000, and add in about 15 9mm's too. :angry2:

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I must admit that I too have had recent bad experiences with a new 1050 in 38super. Mine came grossly out of adjustment and had 2 issues that caused complete stoppage within the first 300 rounds. I had to disable the shellplate rachet right away and had to tear down and completely re adjust the primer system. I also still have intermittent problems with cases not making it into the shellplate correctly. I don't expect to have anywhere near this much trouble from a $1500+ product. Sure, the Dillon tech support was excellent but it shouldn't have to be for a new machine.

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The shell plates are VERY acurate and tight ...some brass just dont feed in perfectly..any burr in the extractor groove will do it

38sc can be a booger...my shell plate is new ..and its a very tight fit...I miked the brass that dont feed just right...In my case its the brass

Jim

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The shell plates are VERY acurate and tight ...some brass just dont feed in perfectly..any burr in the extractor groove will do it

38sc can be a booger...my shell plate is new ..and its a very tight fit...I miked the brass that dont feed just right...In my case its the brass

Jim

Amen. I have cases of Starline that is too thick to feed into my 38sc setup. Not all of it, just every 5 or 10 rounds. :angry2:

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I have problems with mine all the time. I have to say the problems are all brass related. Rocks or media in the case. Smaller shells in the case. Mine is over 10 years old and I have been thinking about asking Dillon about sending it back for a tune up. I am getting some variation in primer seat depth. Tried to adjust it to make sure they were seated and kaboom. Back it off a little then have a high primer every now & then. I think it may just be worn a little.

Do they still do the tune up's?

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Hello: I have worked on 3 Dillon RL1050's so far and they all have had different problems. The first one (thanks Merlin) in 9mm was flipping primers and was sticky on the shell plate rotation. I cleaned it up and polished some parts and it worked perfectly. The second press(mine) was crushing primers and sticky as well. I adjusted the primer system and it works great. The last one (Benny's) was the worst one so far. It had primer issues,feeding issues and missing/loose parts. After a little bending,cleaning,greasing and replacing parts it runs great. What I am getting at is you must learn the machine and really look at how it works. They are real simple to work on and clean. As my dad used to say "a machine is only as good as the operator". Thanks, Eric

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Hello: I have worked on 3 Dillon RL1050's so far and they all have had different problems. The first one (thanks Merlin) in 9mm was flipping primers and was sticky on the shell plate rotation. I cleaned it up and polished some parts and it worked perfectly. The second press(mine) was crushing primers and sticky as well. I adjusted the primer system and it works great. The last one (Benny's) was the worst one so far. It had primer issues,feeding issues and missing/loose parts. After a little bending,cleaning,greasing and replacing parts it runs great. What I am getting at is you must learn the machine and really look at how it works. They are real simple to work on and clean. As my dad used to say "a machine is only as good as the operator". Thanks, Eric

Sounds Familiar! Could be applicable in other areas of the sport.

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Scott,

I'm sorry to hear about your 1050 probems.

A lot of folks have posted some great tips, especially Gary from Dillon.

I'd recommend calling Gary (800 223-4570) when you can be in front of the machine. He is not only the most knowledgable, but also the most patient Dillon troubleshooter on the planet.

Please call me if you want to return anything for credit (Bench Wrench, Powder Check System, etc.):

1 877 219-5598

be

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I bought my 1050 used and it was in pieces. I assembled and started adjusting and after a couple of hours got it running with not much trouble. The biggest single problem is the casefeeder occassionally will have a piece of brass land sideways and the hopper will over fill at the tube and fall over the floor. Other than that brass of poor quality will give it problems. Occassional; 22 shells left inside from when they were tumbled toghether and didnt fall out during the seperation process. If I get a new batch of supercomp or 38TJ I can load 2000 rounds without a stoppage or problem. I still stand by my original statement that the 550 is the best loader for the money, easier and less expensive to change calibres and with a case feeder on it, 600-700 rounds /hour is possible. Much simpler and more effective machine.

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I bought my 1050 used and it was in pieces. I assembled and started adjusting and after a couple of hours got it running with not much trouble. The biggest single problem is the casefeeder occassionally will have a piece of brass land sideways and the hopper will over fill at the tube and fall over the floor. Other than that brass of poor quality will give it problems. Occassional; 22 shells left inside from when they were tumbled toghether and didnt fall out during the seperation process. If I get a new batch of supercomp or 38TJ I can load 2000 rounds without a stoppage or problem. I still stand by my original statement that the 550 is the best loader for the money, easier and less expensive to change calibres and with a case feeder on it, 600-700 rounds /hour is possible. Much simpler and more effective machine.

I'm right with you on the 550 being the best loader for the money. Nearly everyone should start with one for there first metallic cartridge press. Based on its simplicy, reliability, and potential "throughput" - no other press compares.

But when you're talking about cranking 1,000 rounds in 35 minutes (w/o a Bullet Feeder, but with an RF 100 Primer Filler), or 30 - 50,000 rounds/year - the 1050 is the King.

be

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The shell plates are VERY acurate and tight ...some brass just dont feed in perfectly..any burr in the extractor groove will do it

38sc can be a booger...my shell plate is new ..and its a very tight fit...I miked the brass that dont feed just right...In my case its the brass

Jim

Yup, maybe too tight. Most but not all of my case feed problems have been with new 38 supercomp brass, no burrs and very consistent dimensions. Starline brass is VERY consistent. I am sure that there is a fix/bandaid for this issue discussed somewhere in these archives, I just haven't run across it yet :)

Edited by larry cazes
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I still stand by my original statement that the 550 is the best loader for the money, easier and less expensive to change calibres and with a case feeder on it, 600-700 rounds /hour is possible. Much simpler and more effective machine.

I agree. If I had it to do over again, I would have just added a case feeder to my 550B and bought another gun instead of the 1050. The time I have spent tweaking this thing is ridiculous.

Edited by larry cazes
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I was looking to purchase a reloading press and have no experience at reloading.

I guess from the comments here the dillon 1050 would not be a good choice for a beginner ?

WHich one do you guys recommend I start out with?

Remember .....raw beginner at reloading here and I'm not into tweaking stuff I buy.

I want it to work the way its advertised to work.

JK

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I've had my 1050 Super for 19 months, and I found that there was a real learning curve that appears to be different from another progressive that I had for 18 years or so.

I had primer feed problems, case feed problems and powder spillage problems, and bullet feed problems.

Primer feed was adjustment - the owners manual and this forum helped cure that.

Case feed problems where tried to be cured with the aid of the owners manual and this forum, but it was Dillon Precision that cured that problem. I ended up getting the older funnel assembly and all is good. I did have case pileup at one point but a piece of card 1" x 1 1/2" was taped to the casefeeder with about 3/8" inside the funnel which stops the case from bouncing back.

Powder spillage was cased by the return stroke travel being too fast and the powder was being flung out of the case. Solution was slow down a bit.

The bullet feed probem was that my left index finger and thimb were getting achy. Problem solve when I added a KISS bulletfeeder.

Edited by RePete
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I was looking to purchase a reloading press and have no experience at reloading.

I guess from the comments here the dillon 1050 would not be a good choice for a beginner ?

WHich one do you guys recommend I start out with?

Remember .....raw beginner at reloading here and I'm not into tweaking stuff I buy.

I want it to work the way its advertised to work.

JK

1st loader, without a doubt the 550. Brian and I are in total agreement on this. Big time flexibility, you can load every claibre in the world except.50bmg and conversions as well as tool heads are reasonably priced I have no less than 8 toolheads complete for my 550 and it loads the majority of my ammo other than 38sc. but for 45,40,40long,9mm,44mag,223,308 and 38super, it is all loaded on a 550. I shoot mostly open so the high useage of the 1050 in supercomp makes it the workhorse for that calibre but I shoot plenty of the other calibres so it is easier and more economic to use the 550.

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