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swhitney

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  1. Well after running about 5000 rounds through a brand new 1050 I have this to say: This machine is poorly made and does not perform as advertised. Many of the parts are cheap stamped Chinese sheet steel, the springs are equally low quality. The machine rarely goes 300 rounds without some sort of malfunction. Here is a brief list of the headaches this machine deals out on a regular basis: 1) This machine cannot accurately meter Varget into a 223 case. The drop tube fails to settle the powder to any sort of consistent height in the case. Powder chunks are flying all over the place when the shell plate advances as powder frequently clogs at the neck. 2) The powder measure is very poorly made...with some of the most inferior metal to be found, ultra sloppy tolerances topped off with generally poor engineering to begin with. The powder adjustment nut is a coarse threaded machine bolt that can change a load by as much as 4 grains with less then 10 degrees of rotation. All of this adds up to powder flying all over, inconsistent loads and overall very poor performance. 3) The powder warning extra is useless on 223 with this powder measuring system. The loads are never consistently at the same height in the case either due to bridging at the neck, or inconsistent drop tube settling in the case. If you load 223 with Varget save your money on this useless accessory. 4) The wrench that came with the machine is a complete joke and was bent within a day or two of tightening and loosening die nuts. When you spend close to 2000 dollars you would think you get something other then a cheap piece of die cut Chinese crap steel. 5) The primer feed slide and primer feed are constantly a problem. Primers flipped over, crushed, warped are some of the problems. As to the flipped over primers that might be the primer tube loader I bought for a couple of hundred bucks, but then that is still a Dillon issue isn't it. If you tighten the primer drop tube assembly the slide seizes up completely in the channel. 6) The case feeder mis-feeds about 1 case in 20. Either the case is destroyed or it fails to find its home in the shell plate. 7) The primer pocket swager does NOT swage the pocket. Despite dozens of attempts and trying all permutations of adjustment it simply leaves the ragged edge of a crimped pocket. Needless to say this has caused primer seating issues. I am forced to use only un-crimped cases with this machine. It will not handle any sort of crimped case. 8) When originally assembling the machine, the machining (drill-tap) for the post studs that hold the case feeder upright post were so poorly performed that the post studs were 3/16" wider when screwed in. One stud had to be bent downward in order to bolt the post to the studs. I had visions of some worker at the Dillon plant using a Sears Craftsman cordless drill to drill out the base for the studs. 9) If (when) the case feeder throws a case into the tube upside down, the design of the case feeder cut off switch is such that the last case in the tube prevents removal of the tube. Poor design and engineering. 10) The tool head, due to the system of linkages and poor tolerances of engineering in the pivot joints allows the the entire tool head to slop left and right up to 4 degrees of rotation horizontally. This causes unnecessary wear and tear, constantly loosening Allen heads and various adjustments. I expected for 2000 dollars to have a machine that whose machining and tolerances were much higher. Very disappointing. ========================================== Now before some of the local board jockeys jump in and start pointing me at the various hacks and fixes posted on this board such as 'shimming' the primer feed tube, polishing the drop tube, after market powder bars etc etc etc... The point of this post is to bring to the attention of potential 1050 buyers that you are buying a broken machine the day you take delivery. It does not work as advertised, is poorly made...poorly designed, poorly engineered and the machining quality is horrible. CW
  2. I couldn't even throw more than 22gr with the small bar...switched to the large bar after the initial setup... I know about the after market micrometer bolt replacement for the powder bar...but does anyone make tricked out powder bars as well I still think its a bit ridiculous to have to immediately modify a new piece of equipment...but what the heck else can I do... Thanks
  3. I need a link....I searched Freeman, Polish, Powder Drop etc with no luck.... Thanks
  4. Thanks.... Much more desirable than modifying a brand new piece of equipment....
  5. So your suggesting that the 1500 dollar piece of equipment I just purchased requires modification in order to work properly? Perhaps I ought to send the parts to Dillon for repair? I appreciate your suggestion, but do you really think that is acceptable? It would seem that the equipment should work properly with one of the more popular powders on the market.
  6. Having trouble getting Varget to meter with any degree of precision that is acceptable. Further I am getting drop tube bridging and the powder check is going haywire half the time is largely useless with Varget. I am loading 23.5 on one load and 26.2 on another. The larger load is nearly a compressed load, and I am getting bridging in the neck of the case as well. Some tips or tricks would be appreciated, but I think I want to just switch to a more granular type powder... I am loading 223 55 FMJ and 77 Match Kings....and I want to use the same powder for both. I am not interested in complicating my operation using a second powder. What say YOU?
  7. Local ordinance...its consistent with the federal shipping laws...
  8. I have all I can legally posses...16Lbs...should be getting about 2000 rounds per 8Lbs...as soon as I begin reloading I will be ordering my second batch of powder...
  9. I had to use a company check and that went through last week with Brian...then we had issues with Dillon being out of carbide dies in 223...apparently they found the dies and built the unit yesterday...should ship today or tomorrow me thinks....
  10. Nope, not even close! There's no bullet feeder waiting.... But seriously. I don't see much in the way of power supplies, though they may be hidden. Also, Hoofy recommends a mirror up high so you can check brass levels without pulling out the ladder. The guys at Calguns are doing a KISS group buy in a couple of weeks...it will just have to wait....as to the power.... There are three power holes with grommets through the top to a dedicated circuit with a quad duplex and 2 power strips. All of the wiring for the fan and light and battery chargers are plugged into the power strips under the top and the wires are held under the top so you basically see nothing in terms of cords an cables. If you look at the light and the fan on the left side of the work top you don't see any cables...but they are both powered up...
  11. After I ordered my 1050 the other day I noticed the picture in the Blue Press showed a black handle...and the text in Brian' narratives described that the aluminum handle was stock on the 1050...I shot him an email inquiring as to whether I was going to get plastic or aluminum.... Here is Brian's Reply... I have to apologize - I just called to double check and the roller handle for the 1050 is actually plastic. (I'll find that on my web site and change it.) I always thought it was aluminum, well, from when I wrote that approximately 6 years ago. I've never had a single person tell me that they didn't like the roller that comes on the 1050. Nevertheless, if you want to change it to the aluminum handle (I asked), it can be done. You can buy just the roller from the 650's Aluminum Roller Handle separately... but you will need a long-nosed pair of snap ring pliers in order to change handles. Maybe the real old 1050's had aluminum handles, because I could swear mine did. I am definitely gonna switch mine out if for no other reason than the bling bling factor.... If you want just the blue anodized aluminum handle, drop Brian a PM... SW
  12. The stock handle on the 1050 is a roller handle...unfortunatley it is the cheap plastic one.... In my humble opinion...the 1050 should be shipped with the blue aluminum handle... Bump the price...do whatever...when your dropping big coin on a machine...a couple of bucks more is flea dirt on a Blue Tick... 1050 should ship with a blue Al roller, not the black plastic stock currently offered.... My two cents
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