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Sorting 9mm brass


fireman1776

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I don't know if it is common, but it did happen to me when a piece of stepped brass snuck through on the reloading process.

Second shot on a 32 round stage, had to disassemble the pistol and then pull out the ring of brass from the chamber.

 

 

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For a few years now I always check brass that I collect from the indoor range I shoot. If you have a tag listing that you collect brass, they RO's often use a broom and push anything into your lane. They don't care what kind of brass it is, and what size.

So, coming home, I pour it into an old colander and go with a magnet through it; picks up all the steel "brass". Then I hand pick the Aluminum cases and toss, then sort out the other calibers...

The brass then gets sorted as follows: first check every round for steps inside, and cracks - toss this into the brass scrap bucket.

While I have the brass in my hand, I sort them as follows:

WIN, FED and RP go into one container = this is the best brass (at least for me)

PMC, Blazer, and some brands other go into the second container =  my second choice

CBC, SB, PPU (NNY in Cyrillic) etc and some other go into the third container, this is the brass I leave at the other range I go to.

All other odd stuff, mainly some weird looking and anything military  goes into my brass scrap bucket (I get something like $2-$2.50 per pound at my scrap yard).

This is my personal selection process...so others may differ. The brass in the first picture would go into my scrap.

I do this process for .45 as well, sorting out the .40 and I keep them for a friend.

Edited by RudyVey
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13 hours ago, RudyVey said:

For a few years now I always check brass that I collect from the indoor range I shoot. If you have a tag listing that you collect brass, they RO's often use a broom and push anything into your lane. They don't care what kind of brass it is, and what size.

I'm kind of the opposite of this these days. I have probably 10K of 9mm brass that is sorted for stepped/damaged cases and wet tumbled. So when I go to the range, I sweep my area clean and push anything in front further down the range before I start shooting. I only want to pick up what I shot. Yeah, I'm sure I have a small net loss each time I go, but for now, I'm good with that. Saves me time at the reloading bench.

 

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Attaching a strong magnet to the outside of your casefeed tube is a good way to catch any steel cases that sneak in.  I used to just tape one on, but a friend gave me a nice printed magnet holder.

 

 

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On 3/14/2022 at 3:34 PM, VortecMAX said:

+1 on this.  The swage gage by Ballistic Tools is a must have item.  You can use the "go" end to check for crimps, and the "no-go" end to check for worn out brass.

 

Mike

 

Another +1 here.  I wish I had gotten one sooner.  I have both the small and larger primer swage gages.

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The second post of this thread talked about “Norma” brass. I never thought I would come across it as Norma brass is expensive. I loaded 100 rounds yesterday and I got 8 pieces of Norma brass. Flash hole is way to small to get a pin in there. Maybe Norma got a new “Covid” supplier?

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I decap separately, and with an FW Arms die, it makes quick work of the Norma brass.  It swages out the flash hole a little larger, and I've had no issues loading/shooting any Norma brass.

 

Regarding headstamps, I separate out any stepped cases, along with SVT and CBC brass.  I learned through trial and error when running completed rounds through a case gauge, 99% of my failures were with CBC and SVT brass.  I'm also finding some recently picked up S&B brass with really tight primer pockets, which have no visible crimp marks.  I finding it easier just to toss those and move on at this point.

 

At this point it takes me longer to sort the brass than it does to load it.  It is worth it though.  

Edited by thor447
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20 minutes ago, thor447 said:

I decap separately, and with an FW Arms die, it makes quick work of the Norma brass.  It swages out the flash hole a little larger, and I've had no issues loading/shooting any Norma brass.

 

Regarding headstamps, I separate out any stepped cases, along with SVT and CBC brass.  I learned through trial and error when running completed rounds through a case gauge, 99% of my failures were with CBC and SVT brass.  I'm also finding some recently picked up S&B brass with really tight primer pockets, which have no visible crimp marks.  I finding it easier just to toss those and move on at this point.

 

At this point it takes me longer to sort the brass than it does to load it.  It is worth it though.  

To your last statement, with the price and rarity of components, plus the occasional jam-ups while loading it is indeed worth the extra time. 
Just curious, have you tried to swage the S&B brass just to see if it helped?  I’m wondering if it’s like some I had where the pockets are tapered and it doesn’t help. You have to uniform them to cut out the taper. A real pita. 

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On 3/19/2022 at 9:41 PM, zombywoof said:

Look what I just found.

image0(2).jpeg

I'm fairly new to reloading, I'm assuming this is stepped brass? I've only seen this in steel cases that I discard.

The FW Arms decapper with the small pin does a good job on the Norma cases.

Edited by Speedwagon
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On 3/11/2022 at 1:30 PM, lefty o said:

a primer pocket go-no go gauge is a handy tool. especially if you are getting older and blind and hate trying to read all them tiny headstamps.

Never knew about these, good info. Just ordered them. 

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2 hours ago, Speedwagon said:

I'm fairly new to reloading, I'm assuming this is stepped brass? I've only seen this in steel cases that I discard.

The FW Arms decapper with the small pin does a good job on the Norma cases.

Not stepped, berdan primed, note the 2 flash holes 

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4 hours ago, Khaot1c said:

 

Just sorted about a pound of those out of my stash.  Curious what the price of scrap brass is going for theses days...

Here about $2 per pound of mixed brass scrap - I always drop of a mix of primers and the bad and broken brass at my local scrap yard.

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On 3/21/2022 at 10:57 AM, Speedwagon said:

I'm fairly new to reloading, I'm assuming this is stepped brass? I've only seen this in steel cases that I discard.

The FW Arms decapper with the small pin does a good job on the Norma cases.

There is nothing worse IMHO then snapping the recapping pin if these aren’t found proactively 

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On 3/11/2022 at 12:30 PM, lefty o said:

a primer pocket go-no go gauge is a handy tool. especially if you are getting older and blind and hate trying to read all them tiny headstamps.

Never heard of this before, but it woulda saved me a lot of spilled powder pains! Ordering one now.

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3 hours ago, SlvrDragon50 said:

Never heard of this before, but it woulda saved me a lot of spilled powder pains! Ordering one now.

A little tip, they have a groove on the stem and one is larger than the other. Go-no-go. Mine were real similar in size so I marked them with a green and red sharpie in the groove. Much faster to see. 

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10 hours ago, Farmer said:

A little tip, they have a groove on the stem and one is larger than the other. Go-no-go. Mine were real similar in size so I marked them with a green and red sharpie in the groove. Much faster to see. 

good point, i filled the groove on the no-go side with red model paint.

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Not as common, but I also lookout for OZK stamps, I think these are from Freedom Munitions stuff, these are stepped but also brass COATED steel. The cases stick to my magnet when I'm removing tumbling pins.

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