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GrumpyOne

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About GrumpyOne

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  • Birthday 06/04/1968

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    Gainesville, FL
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    Andy Glattli

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  1. The rod needs to be straight up and down. Use the nut on the bottom of the rod to take all of the slack out of the rod. It's pretty easy to make the rod. Simply buy a piece of rod stock the same size as the original, bend an elbow in one end, and use a die to thread the other. That's what I did. I left the short piece at the elbow long enough and threaded it as well, and put a Nylock nut on it.
  2. Well, i tried some industrial bleach. Sprayed on and scrubbed, let sit for 15-20 minutes...it lightened the stains a little, but they were still very visible. Next was the muriatic acid. I found a small spray bottle in the shed, mixed a couple of table spoons of the acid to about 6-8 ounces of water, and sprayed on the worst of the stains...in the case it had adverse effects. Within 5 minutes, the stains were completely gone. I mean completely. No trace. Rinsed thoroughly with plain water. Boat was back to bright white. The only issue I've seen using the acid is, the spray bottles don't last very long. You have about 15 minutes before it won't spray anymore. It got stains out that had been in there for years. Now, I need to get it waxed. For those worried about the mixing of bleach and acid, I thoroughly rinsed the boat after the bleach before applying the acid.
  3. You also want to adjust the rod where the powder actuators are all the way down with the handle of the press in the up position.
  4. So, finally getting around to cleaning the boat after winter storage. The mildew got pretty bad on it this winter. Pressure washing got the majority of the mildew off (boat is an off white/eggshell color), but the mildew has kind of stained the gelcoat. I've tried a couple of different cleaners, but the stain is still there. So, what will remove the stain that a 4,000 PSI pressure won't? Through some research, most are recommending muriatic acid (25% muriatic acid 75% water), spray on, wait a minutes, then rinse off. Open to any ideas. Thanks!
  5. I use these at work for scotch lock wire splices. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-5-13-16-in-ScotchLok-Connector-Crimping-Pliers-D234-6/203195113?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|All-Products|All|All|PLA|71700000014585962|58700001236285396|92700010802552412&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIusKOs7ac4gIVlbXACh0ItQRmEAQYASABEgKzJPD_BwE
  6. I caution EVERYONE to watch their attitudes. Posting GuidelinesAttitudePlease be polite. Or if not polite, at least respectful.No bickering. Regardless of the subject matter.Antagonistic, offensive, or quarrelsome tones are not acceptable.No trolling. No alternate accounts.
  7. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.k8nd.com/documents/hl38sup.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjOxZr1y4XiAhUBPa0KHQDBB3MQFjADegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw31vtfKBviTUmY0tlVvp2er
  8. Exactly what makes this an Open gun?
  9. One of the most unsafe things I've seen at a match was somebody eating Krystal burgers at 8am, and no porta potty on site.
  10. Maybe for 223, but not in pistol. The cups are harder, and the anvil is not seated completely when you take them out of the package. The only primers I have ever had issue with are Remington's. Thousands upon thousands of Winchester with no issues, no issues with CCI, none with S&B, none with Magtech...only Remington. In one brick, I bet I had 30 failures with Remington...I bet I haven't had 10 failures in 100,000 Winchester primers.
  11. Winchester. You won't find many using Remington primers.
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