Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Farmer

Classified
  • Content Count

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Farmer

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Odessa, Wa
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing shooting & reloading
  • Real Name
    Ryan Walter

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. H110/296 needs heavy bullets, tight crimp and a strong primer, ie CCI 350 or WWLP to really perform to its full potential. You can use lighter bullets but that’s where you get the unburnt powder and giant fireballs from. I generally don’t load under 240g with it. I have a 208 wad cutter that I load with 231 and it’s very accurate and fun to shoot. The 44 is a very versatile accurate round, if you just remember that for a light plinker use a faster powder and for a true magnum go slower.
  2. Thank you Shadowrider for that information.
  3. Are you getting ALL the lead out of your barrel when starting out? A bronze brush wrapped with some copper chore boy strands will scrape it out easily. Any that’s left in the corners will just tear up the new rounds and start over again. And No, shooting jacketed Won’t magically clean it out! Main reasons for leading are, poor fit, rough bore, poor lube and too high of psi or velocity for the alloy used.
  4. I re-checked mine with the phone yesterday. I noticed it first with my old Motorola flip phone but it is the same with my iPhone. At 3-4 feet away it will give a -1.2 to -3 reading that jumps around. This is only when the phone is either accessing the network or when a call comes in. It seems that when they are at “idle” there’s no interference. I have an older RCBS scale which is the same as the older Pact models. It also raises hell with the auto powder measure. Just some info for you all.
  5. I use AA#9 because it’s almost the same weight as h2o. (Within .1 +-grains per cc) Sorry I didn’t have any sig brass. Buffalo- 12.8g Made by Starline CBC- 12.8 S&B- 12.9 NAT- 13.0 WCC-12.4 Starline-12.8 PMC-12.7 CCI-12.4 FED-13.0 Hornady-13.7 Speer-12.6 So far these are all the ones that I have done. All were sized, primer seated, filled with #9 struck off level and poured into scale pan & weighed.
  6. Take a couple pieces, throw them in a small bottle (pill bottle) with 1/4 tsp of lemishine and water and shake it for a min or two and see what it looks like. I’ve seen some crazy results lately and wonder if it’s the water. One fellow was bitching about his new sonic cleaner that the tank was rusting. Really? Think about that. He showed it and the water looked like something that came from a swamp. It was loaded with iron and whatever. Not saying yours is that bad but it’s something we need to keep an eye on with all the different alloys that the company’s are using nowadays.
  7. Are the flash holes normal size? If they are too small it can sometimes push the primer back more even on a light load. I would also take one of those and reload it to see if it does the same thing.
  8. ^^^this. And the ball bearing suggestion. I know my Loadmaster isn’t the newest & coolest but I can control how fast the shell plate starts and stops to prevent spillage. Can’t say that about the dribbling powder measure though.
  9. Thanks for the example/explanation, helps to know the “little things” for improvement.
  10. Isn’t there a power port for ac use? Sorry I’m not familiar with your scale and was just giving suggestions that have worked in the past for other people.
  11. Let it warm up at least 15 min before calibrating/using, I just leave mine on if using it several days in a row and it’s much more stable. Keep your cell phone at least 6’ away or more. Magnets too. Fluorescent lights can be a problem. Haven’t tested LED’s yet. A good surge strip can sometimes help but not really necessary unless you have dirty power in your area. Make sure scale is on a solid surface. I set mine on a 1 foot square ceramic tile with rubber feet on the bottom. Actually .02 isn’t squat to worry about unless you mean .2. Just a few things I’ve run across over the years.
  12. After reading many of those I remembered that I once had something similar happen and never did figure it out. But reading all the stories from many of you here of missing anvils I wonder if that’s what it was. It was a stiff load (compressed) of AA#9 in my 454 and Rem SR primers. First one went pfffft with smoke out of the cyl gap of my Super Redhawk. This was a bit unnerving to say the least! Upon inspection after the smoke cleared it had taken the bullet and powder charge and shoved it about an inch down the bore. The powder was packed in so hard I had to use a brass pick to dig it out before driving the bullet out. Fortunately it had made it Past the cyl gap but I have never had that happen before or since. I have never seen a missing anvil in 45 years of loading but I guess it can happen.
  13. I once had my powder measure return chain come loose and it wasn’t pulling it back to the stop. Basically short stroking it and getting a partial charge. I caught 5 of them but missed one that my BIL got in his box. Fortunately we were just practicing when it showed up and no harm was done.
  14. Just looking at the burn chart (I know) shows AS slightly faster than SP so that would make sense that less is more and a bit cleaner. What I find odd is that e3 is a fair amount faster but as most have stated is very similar to AS. I thought of trying both but thought the e3 might be a bit more peaky than the AS, sort of how Clays reacts. Am I incorrect in this thinking?
  15. Die grinder & carbide bit.
×
×
  • Create New...