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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Farmer

  • Birthday 11/19/1957

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    Odessa, Wa
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing shooting & reloading
  • Real Name
    Ryan Walter

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Sees Sights Lift (7/11)

  1. Little longer bearing surface too.
  2. Thank’s, you explained it better than I would have.
  3. Like the idea of multiple par times on the AMG.
  4. I kind of wonder if it will work outside those temps but maybe they can’t guarantee accuracy. You might be off .000001 FPS!
  5. ^^^This, and can you feel the difference? That much drop should be pretty noticeable in recoil and sound. If there’s no perceived difference I’d double check the chrono.
  6. I’ve got baffles in a couple of my throwers and it will still falls off as it gets closer to the baffles. Don’t know why but it does. But then there’s those days that the powder measure will throw all around the weight you want or not the same one twice!
  7. Sounds like you’re engaging the rifling. If it were the crimp or neck thickness it would be a problem with the shorter ones also. Take a sharpie and color a long loaded bullet and then chamber it. You should be able to see rifling marks on the bullet when you extract it. Sometimes it’s faint but it doesn’t take much to stick one especially in an auto.
  8. I noticed that the temp range is 20-100 deg. Would this be a problem for you? Maybe someone has used it at lower temps will chime in. My brother cured the lighting problem on his Chrony by putting a couple of those oval HF led flashlights on top of the diffusers. Works great!
  9. I’m wondering if they are going to replace 231 with it. Has similar properties, you use less in some cases, it seems to burn cleaner but it also seems to peak quicker with heavier loads. Companies are trying to make their powders eco friendly and it seems when they do that it speeds them up or they spike in pressure more quickly or run higher psi. They also seem to fit in a more narrow niche. Like Onepivot said it does seem to have more recoil to it, to me it feels snappier than some of the others.
  10. I slip an empty fired case under the powder drop and keep dumping it back into the hopper until a new primed case makes it to the powder drop. After that first case makes it to the bullet seat station I’ll pull the case and check the powder. If it’s good everything goes back in and away we go. I may check one after 25 or 50 or so but after everything is running smoothly it’s best to just keep going keeping an eye on things as I’m loading.
  11. I just looked at some I had loaded with 135g RMR MW and 3.8g of 244 @ 1.09. They were running right at 998.3 FPS with 3 es. Accuracy was fair. Also tried 3.8 of American Select, 993 FPS av, 10 es. Good accuracy. Win 244 does seem to work better in my 10mm for light loads like 165’s at 1050 ect but I need to mess with it a bit more in the 9.
  12. I think you may be getting the processes confused. With copper plated, a lead bullet is electroplated with copper to fully encapsulate the bullet. A FMJ is a copper or brass jacket that is drawn out and a lead core is pressed into, formed, then crimped leaving lead exposed at the base or rear. Some companies (MG) insert a gas check in the rear to make a TMJ bullet, covering up the lead. Exposed lead at the base melts slightly giving off lead vapor that can crud up your compensator. This is why most shoot JHP in comp’s. I am unaware of anyone who makes a Brass Plated bullet, only Brass jacketed. Maybe someone will chime in if someone does make one. Hope this helps
  13. I have a mix of dies that I’ve collected and use. Whatever you have loaded in the past just know the 9mm is a picky PITA compared just about anything else. Now that’s out of the way, I use a RCBS or Lee sizer, Lyman “M” die expander, and either a Lee or RCBS seater and either a RCBS crimper or Lee Factory Crimp Die. It all depends on what bullet and brass combo I’m loading. With .356 lead/plated coated or not, use std crimp die. With .355 jacketed, go with the Lee FCD. Just my 2 cents.
  14. Ok guys, if you had to pick a red dot for best overall usage which ones would be in the top three or four? And why? Price, Value, Durability, Clarity, Features ect. I know things change over time but just trying to get some info and put it in one place for myself and others to view. Thanks.
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