Mark7 Evolution - Tuning & Troubleshooting

[Steyrarms]

So a little update here, got some 2700 PPU .224 62 fmj-bt bullets and 12 pound of Lovex D073.4.

 

Made the pre-setup and adjusted the redding  powder measure BR3 to 24.05gr.

First 10 charges in one pan and bang on 240,7gr. 

2th 10 charges checked one by one —> min. was 24.04 and max was 24.11gr

Not bad for a AP press, and before you start moaning that my scale aint that precise... skip it, I use a Sartorius Entris 64 with a powder trickler for hand loads.

Certified and checked anualy, the entris is accurate down to +-0.002gr.

 

Frankly speaking, redding is the way to go if you like to fill the gap between cheap bulk ammo and time consuming hand match loads.... with the right components I would call it semi match.

[Thetimb]

Well I got my evolution back from Mark7 with the primer collator installed and various other things done to the press. Minus the collator the biggest change is the new powder funnel.

 

Edited December 9, 2019 by Thetimb

[jcwallace84]

2 hours ago, Thetimb said:

Well I got my evolution back from Mark7 with the primer collator installed and various other things done to the press. Minus the collator the biggest change is the new powder funnel.

 

 

 

What all did they do to your press?  I have a manual Evo serial number 25.  I know they said they changed the primer ram hardness and could replace it eventually if I wanted.  But so far it isn't a problem for me.  Is there anything else substantial worth the hassle of sending it back for?

[dosproduction]

Got my Evo about a week ago or so. Quick shipping had it within about 10 days or ordering so that was great. Now I’m running it I have had a couple issues maybe someone can help me with. Running a standard stacked primer configuration. I originally ran about 100 lrg pistol primers Winchester and never had a issue. But upon running Remington primers when ever there was Not a round to be primed as the primer dropped to retract it would catch at a angle and jam up the primer return bar which would freeze up the machine. Any one have this happen and do you think it is just the Remington primers? Next I was wondering if there is any better video on greasing everything? I watched the one on Mark 7 and find it a little lacking. Like how many squirts in the zurk fittings? How exactly do you lube the main piston and guide rods just rub it on? And I think I saw him point to the end of the handle joint but not sure what to do there. Thanks for any info. 

[hurley326]

On 12/16/2019 at 11:16 PM, dosproduction said:

Got my Evo about a week ago or so. Quick shipping had it within about 10 days or ordering so that was great. Now I’m running it I have had a couple issues maybe someone can help me with. Running a standard stacked primer configuration. I originally ran about 100 lrg pistol primers Winchester and never had a issue. But upon running Remington primers when ever there was Not a round to be primed as the primer dropped to retract it would catch at a angle and jam up the primer return bar which would freeze up the machine. Any one have this happen and do you think it is just the Remington primers? Next I was wondering if there is any better video on greasing everything? I watched the one on Mark 7 and find it a little lacking. Like how many squirts in the zurk fittings? How exactly do you lube the main piston and guide rods just rub it on? And I think I saw him point to the end of the handle joint but not sure what to do there. Thanks for any info. 

 

 

Did you contact Misty yet at Mk7?  She's your best resource. It's likely just adjustments needed. See the attached primer seat troubleshooting guide.

Primer Seat Troubleshooting.pdf

[cool]

''Got my Evo about a week ago or so. Quick shipping had it within about 10 days or ordering so that was great. Now I’m running it I have had a couple issues maybe someone can help me with. Running a standard stacked primer configuration. I originally ran about 100 lrg pistol primers Winchester and never had a issue. But upon running Remington primers when ever there was Not a round to be primed as the primer dropped to retract it would catch at a angle and jam up the primer return bar which would freeze up the machine. Any one have this happen and do you think it is just the Remington primers? Next I was wondering if there is any better video on greasing everything? I watched the one on Mark 7 and find it a little lacking. Like how many squirts in the zurk fittings? How exactly do you lube the main piston and guide rods just rub it on? And I think I saw him point to the end of the handle joint but not sure what to do there. Thanks for any info. ''

 

I had primers that went wrong
To remove the incident, I machined this aluminum part with a file,
the primer can no longer turn over or go wrong.

[MountainMan]

The problem I had involved the primer not seating properly perhaps due to a punch issue and then being Brought back half-canted or so in the slide cup and catching against the tab or the stack assembly and stopping the press.  I contrived some covers like you made (mine were obviously far less elegant!) with no effect on this problem.   After some back and forth I sent the press back for a thorough inspection hopefully they will find the root cause and fix...

[cool]

I only had to adjust this aluminum part the threaded holes were original.
I saw that on the latest EVO models these holes no longer exist.

[dosproduction]

2 hours ago, cool said:

So the issue I’m having seems to be the same as Yours Cool and Mountain man. I started filing down a piece of metal to try and do what you did Cool, the plastic plate there I assumed was the issue before talking to the  mark7 people. Hurley I ended up talking to one of the Mark 7 people over the phone he was very helpful. Thought we had it figured out by making the primer punch flush. I’m going to send him a text after this.  

[dosproduction]

Sorry cool somehow I ended up using a quote thing and that is not a quote of yours lol.

[quiller]

I'm finally getting my new reloading space set up. I bought my Evo from DAA in early 2018 and it was delivered in early November of 2018. In June of 2018 we sold our house with the intention of downsizing. However, the contractor could not get the planning board to get out of their own way, so after a year in a two bed-roomed apartments with two kids and a dog we gave up an bought another house. Since I'm an architectural designer I could not leave anything untouched we rehabbed the entire house (well, inside for now...outside will have to wait).

 

Part of the work was creating a 7 foot wide by 24 long swat out of the garage for my new man cave. The house work came first but I picked away at my space. It's finally getting there and this week I set up the press table and Evo. The table is an old electric Hamilton drafting table that can raise and lower, and the cement block are for added stability. I tested the table to make sure it would lift the press and extras and stopped after loading over 150lbs on it, so clearly the motor and 1 1/8" dia worm drive are up to the task. The table is super stable at sitting height but I noticed the extra weight of the case and bullet feeders caused some movement (vibration) when I elevate the table to standing height. I'm not actually producing ammo yet, just cycling the press to get a feel for it. I read here and on a few other forums that folks sometimes mount the case and bullet feeders on a wall so all that extra weight is not hanging off the press. Makes sense as it a lot of weight on a light gauge 1" square tubing. Making a frame and hanging the case and bullet feeders from the ceiling is not an issue and something that I could easily do, but I'm looking for feedback on what you guys think. Do you think the vibration will cause any issues......the powder die is my biggest concern? I really like the idea of changing the height of the press to suit standing or sitting or filling the hoppers or just looking at something without bending over, but I'm a tad concerned that my Hamilton table idea will cause other issue. Cheers.....

 

[Tanfastic]

Here's a tip that is very specific, but just in case anyone might spend nearly a month trying to diagnose a priming issue with the automated primer collator like I just did, maybe this will help.

 

DO NOT use the new-style Mighty Armory die with the spring-loaded decapping pin with this priming system. Seems nearly impossible, but on my press when a case is decapped with the spring-loaded pin the "snap" of the spring transfers through the press over to the primer punch that is in the process of raising up a primer, and it causes the primer to jump around on the tip of the punch. This causes random sideways and even upside down primers being loaded. Captured on slow-motion video it's CRAZY, here's one where the primer literally flipped completely over on top of the punch:

Primer Flipping

 

I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it with my own eyes in slow-mo. I swapped out nearly every part of the priming system chasing this issue down, and in the end it was the die. I put the original style non-spring-loaded MA decap die back on and now zero issues.  Crazy.  But anyway, just in case someone else has that die and random priming issues, hopefully this shortcuts the process for you!

[B_Seehawer]

Maybe just look for a lighter spring on McMaster Carr. 

[Tanfastic]

5 minutes ago, B_Seehawer said:

Maybe just look for a lighter spring on McMaster Carr. 

 

Nah, no more troubleshooting, I'm just going to run the original die and get my ammo loaded for the season now. 

[OptimiStick]

9 hours ago, Tanfastic said:

Here's a tip that is very specific, but just in case anyone might spend nearly a month trying to diagnose a priming issue with the automated primer collator like I just did, maybe this will help.

 

DO NOT use the new-style Mighty Armory die with the spring-loaded decapping pin with this priming system. Seems nearly impossible, but on my press when a case is decapped with the spring-loaded pin the "snap" of the spring transfers through the press over to the primer punch that is in the process of raising up a primer, and it causes the primer to jump around on the tip of the punch. This causes random sideways and even upside down primers being loaded. Captured on slow-motion video it's CRAZY, here's one where the primer literally flipped completely over on top of the punch:

Primer Flipping

 

I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it with my own eyes in slow-mo. I swapped out nearly every part of the priming system chasing this issue down, and in the end it was the die. I put the original style non-spring-loaded MA decap die back on and now zero issues.  Crazy.  But anyway, just in case someone else has that die and random priming issues, hopefully this shortcuts the process for you!

Woah... That is crazy.  I had that exact set up for probably close to a year with no issues at all.  I. Just changed out to the FW Arms decapper last week.   No driver  behind that change, other than to try FW Arms out.  I’ve been using the spring flicker ever since they came out. 

[Tanfastic]

12 hours ago, OptimiStick said:

Woah... That is crazy.  I had that exact set up for probably close to a year with no issues at all.  I. Just changed out to the FW Arms decapper last week.   No driver  behind that change, other than to try FW Arms out.  I’ve been using the spring flicker ever since they came out. 

 

I think a lot of it has to do with the overall setup of the press, the settings you're using, etc. I only posted it just in case anyone else suffered from the same issue and I could shortcut the troubleshooting process since it was such a PITA for me.

[slavex]

great video on that primer flip. Interesting. I don't use the spring powered one on my Revo, it's on the 1050 for processing. I notice the shell plate is getting moved down before the hold down die is really in place, what is causing that?

[Tanfastic]

10 hours ago, slavex said:

great video on that primer flip. Interesting. I don't use the spring powered one on my Revo, it's on the 1050 for processing. I notice the shell plate is getting moved down before the hold down die is really in place, what is causing that?

 

I was experimenting with a looser shell plate to see if that made any difference. I had tried virtually everything, and MK7 sent me a whole array of new parts for the entire priming system trying to chase this down. The only positive is now I can completely strip my press down to the crank and rebuild it in 30 minutes!

[slavex]

@Tanfastic nice dude, I'm the same now. 

[OptimiStick]

Yeah, I'm not quite that fast.I hope I never have to be.

 

I swapped the FW arms back to the MA to try it again and no problems. I bet that drove you crazy trying to track down that needle in a haystack.

[MountainMan]

I now have the automated primer collator. I had occasional sideways primers that was apparently due to some chattery milling marks on the primer collator bowl, as the issue resolved after I smoothed those out per Mark7 support suggestions.

 

i was experiencing variable primer heights using mixed brass. Other than the obvious primer seating depth adjustment bolt setting, the other items I’ve found that impact primer seating variability include the shellplate lock nut position, and the use and depth of a primer seating station hold down die. Both of these factors are noted by Mark 7 recommendations obviously.

 

for the shellplate, I found it needs to be much tighter than what the 1050 was. I can just barely move it by hand when the shellplate is “cleared’ by the so-named tablet screen button. I found that by tightening the nut until a 0.008” feeler gauge just fits under the shellplate seemed to be the right tightness (measured at the last station where the undersurface is easily accessible where finished rounds drop off the shellplate).

 

also I was using a resizing die with the center decap insert removed....I actually use a U die (9mm)...and unless it’s fully screwed down, the shellplate flexes variably (mixed brass) leading to variable primer depths.

 

this setup requires lubed cases and some experimentation with clutch settings....I use One shot to lube the cases and my clutch setting is 4.

 

has anyone else experience or advice to offer? Things are running pretty smoothly now for me, I’m satisfied. 
 

 

[Tanfastic]

On 3/1/2020 at 9:23 AM, MountainMan said:

I now have the automated primer collator. I had occasional sideways primers that was apparently due to some chattery milling marks on the primer collator bowl, as the issue resolved after I smoothed those out per Mark7 support suggestions.

 

i was experiencing variable primer heights using mixed brass. Other than the obvious primer seating depth adjustment bolt setting, the other items I’ve found that impact primer seating variability include the shellplate lock nut position, and the use and depth of a primer seating station hold down die. Both of these factors are noted by Mark 7 recommendations obviously.

 

for the shellplate, I found it needs to be much tighter than what the 1050 was. I can just barely move it by hand when the shellplate is “cleared’ by the so-named tablet screen button. I found that by tightening the nut until a 0.008” feeler gauge just fits under the shellplate seemed to be the right tightness (measured at the last station where the undersurface is easily accessible where finished rounds drop off the shellplate).

 

also I was using a resizing die with the center decap insert removed....I actually use a U die (9mm)...and unless it’s fully screwed down, the shellplate flexes variably (mixed brass) leading to variable primer depths.

 

this setup requires lubed cases and some experimentation with clutch settings....I use One shot to lube the cases and my clutch setting is 4.

 

has anyone else experience or advice to offer? Things are running pretty smoothly now for me, I’m satisfied. 
 

 

 

That's about the same as my setup for 9mm, shell plate is tight, I haven't measured with a gauge but the plate does not flex up and down during cycling, I tighten the nut until I literally can't rotate the shell plate by hand with two fingers, then back it off slightly so I can just barely rotate the plate.  The U-die for sizing is screwed down finger tight against the shell plate at the bottom of the stroke. I use One Shot lube and Clutch is set at 4. When I use once-fired cleaned and polished brass, it virtually never stops with a clutch error on sizing. With mixed random range brass it does clutch out at 4 with some bulged cases - normally if I jog up, increase to 5, then run, it gets past the error. I shoot for .008 primer depth, and even with mixed brass it's always in that range +/- maybe .003. I haven't had a light strike due to high primer for a very long time, and that's with a very finicky Tanfo Stock 2 running light springs and Bolo.

[dosproduction]

Does anyone know if the top main large Allen should keep spinning? Also talking with mark 7 they now recommend to not use moly grease. Does anyone know the new maintenance procedures? 

Edited March 24, 2020 by dosproduction

[Allenmat]

1 hour ago, dosproduction said:

Does anyone know if the top main large Allen should keep spinning? Also talking with mark 7 they now recommend to not use moly grease. Does anyone know the new maintenance procedures? 

 

No, the top Allen bolt should not spin. It should be tight. I am not aware of the new maintenance procedures.

[DJRyan13]

2 hours ago, dosproduction said:

Does anyone know if the top main large Allen should keep spinning? Also talking with mark 7 they now recommend to not use moly grease. Does anyone know the new maintenance procedures? 

mare you asking about grease on the bolt? None of my presses came with grease on bolt (bought since July).