jcwallace84

@Steyrarms That's fantastic, I'll send you a PM! Thank you! I can let you know how it prints and fits.

@Steyrarms If you need someone to test print one of those 9mm stands let me know! ; ) I have a 9mm system, and recently bought a spare for 223. I have a Prusa mk2S printer. I really wish I had time to build models for stuff like that!

I was initially going to get one but decided to wait. I may have to get one eventually. But the silicone idea doesn't worry me too much. Silicone is quite inert, right? Whatever they use to lube primers in the factory probably wouldn't be any less reactive I would think. Once the propellant evaporates there probably isn't much reactive stuff in these silicone spray lubes. But 6 months to a year is all I'd store my reloads for. If I want to stash away ammo I just typically keep it factory.

Fascinating. We lube brass. Some people lube bullets. Now to lube primers? Doing it in the manner described (not spraying primers directly) shouldn't get much if any "lube" inside the primer compound I would think. And who's to say that the primer manufacturers don't also lube the metal cups at some point? It seems like this sort of thing would help primers move along their journey through a progressive press and into the case. I'm interested to see how this method develops.

Same

Also ordered. Hopefully I can retire the vibraprime

What all did they do to your press? I have a manual Evo serial number 25. I know they said they changed the primer ram hardness and could replace it eventually if I wanted. But so far it isn't a problem for me. Is there anything else substantial worth the hassle of sending it back for?

My manual version has been amazing. I have press #25. It was a learning curve for me getting used to the dillon 1050 type operation, and adjusted swage and stuff, I had some learning to do on how to adjust dies for my 223 loading and was one of the early people to get the 2nd guide rod which really stiffens up the press for rifle. I have done about 2500 rnds 223 on it, and about 4000rnds 9mm. Overall very happy with this press (manual version). ETA: I initially got the rifle version with rifle powder measure. For pistol, I just put a hornady LNL powder measure on and it works really well, especially since I can't manually crank this thing up much beyond a rate of 1500/hr

I wondered too, but imagined it was a statement correlating price, demand, and employee requirement. If they determine a price of say 4,000 and will gross 400,000 vs pricing at 3,500 and grossing 425,000 but requiring an employee which would cost 50,000 they would chose the 4,000 price. If I were to run a business, I would guess I would have to consider things like this. I pre-ordered my press at the $2,500 price which included a bullet feeder and everything, and at that price point it was a no brainer. The amount of machining and CAD time/engineering, and the overall package was worth more in my determination after I put it all together.

If you're on a time crunch like me, you can buy a Hornady case feeder fix pre-made from these guys. I did the 3D printed part and it turned out great, it just had an interference of a few hundredths maybe, otherwise it'd be perfect. As it was, it would catch a piece of 9mm neck first and get jammed. It must be a tolerance thing. https://www.sassybrass.com/sassybrass/product/casecage/

That’s a great idea too! This thread breathed new life into my vibraprime.

Well, I just loaded 800 primers in tubes. I put the tape over the plastic lip like the video, but still had tilted primers. I then noticed, for the first time, that the plastic lip angled up and resulted in a gap. I then used a lighter and softened the plastic and bent it a little. The way i've got it fit now it works like a dream! Also, thanks for the tip on not needing to use the plastic tube that came with the vibra prime.

Following. I own the vibra prime and the hornady 1911. I might try these on both, as both have shortcomings, that look like will be mitigated by this trick. Thanks!

So I've loaded my 3k of 223 and am done with that for now. I put on the 9mm conversion kit and that was a bit of a learning process. There was only one minor issue which I corrected, and might ask Mark 7 about when they get less busy. I cleaned everything out nicely, and made sure my timing was ideal. The new 9mm shellplate, while being very nice and shiny, required different timing than my very very early 223 plate. Also, I was having several problems with what I learned was the primer shuttle catching the edge of the primer ram/rod. So I had to adjust the little curved metal piece that sets the lower limit for the primer ram. So if any of your guy's shuttle seems to catch and then fling back, this is how to fix it! I didn't realize that was what was happening at first, but this caused some problems with indexing. So it should all be fixed. Also, I am using a hornady powder measure with 9mm. I measured 6 drops, with rounds in every station, and it ranged from 4.76 to 4.80 with TrueBlue. However, it did drift a little bit after 100+ rounds, but is easy to adjust. Also, am using the powder cop die which I check with a double charge on purpose. Thing works great! Am waiting for the manual version of Mark 7's powder sensor. Also, for 9mm, I was not having luck with both Mark 7's spring case flipper, as well as the very nicely designed 3D printed device. I ordered another one of these: https://www.sassybrass.com/sassybrass/product/casecage/ This has been 100% for me on my old LNL, which I sold.

FWIW my rifle measure from mark 7 is screwed almost all the way in to get 25.3gr of TAC. I think it bottomed out when I tried to do some below 25gr. I bought a Hornady measure for pistol, largely for the sake of cost. It works fine for as fast as I can load manually.