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Mark7 Evolution - Tuning & Troubleshooting


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15 hours ago, cool said:

Hello
in my opinion the best is to use a powder suitable for this dispenser


 

agree... but wonder what M7 says is suitable for the PM. I was curious so I looked. I don’t see a description on their site.

 

I only thought to look because a few weeks ago I wanted to know what was suitable for the Digital PM:

 

  • Works smoothly with all powder types including extruded stick powder
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I just got around to working on my press 6 months after It went in to mark7. The primer collator and sensor are AWESOME! It's a totally different press now.

 

I was missing the ejector bar at the last station that knocks the bullet into the tray and as always Misty is correcting that issue and sending me a new one today.

 

She is the best and always takes care of Mark 7's customers!

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Hey everyone just got a new evo with auto drive.  Press arrived Wednesday and I assembled and set the dies.  made some rounds to head to the range on Thursday and out of 100, 3 had primers mashed in sideways.  those rounds were a little hot so yesterday I made 50 more and had no priming issues and the load was right where I wanted.  tonight, I made around 450 rounds to get used the press and I am frustrated to say the least.  priming issue came back and tried a few things to try to get it to go away.  tried loading at lowest speed (1000) and at 1900 and issue was present at both speeds.  Always a sideways primer.  I thought I may have found it with the hold down die but adjusted that and made 100 more before calling it quits.  should have quit before that.  Out of those 28 had sideways primers.  Of course, I will be calling them on Monday to get this worked out but didn't know if anyone here has any suggestions as to what to look for.  It seems like the primer shuttle comes in pretty hot at 1900 and I was thinking that that may be jolting the primer before insertion but every time I looked, I couldn't see it happening.  The last 100 I was watching the bullet die and gave up watching the primers since the batch before seemed to do better with the hold down die adjustment.

 

Anyway, any help or ideas to look for over the weekend would be much appreciated.

 

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51 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:

 

Hogrider,

 

Thanks for the response. I will definitely look into that in the morning.  I couldn't let it rest and remember seeing this video and thinking that poor unlucky bastard what are the chances (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEMFEmF2fqs).  Then was thinking what the heck might as well try so I put the the lee universal decapper in for about 30 rounds and seemed good.  Then I adjusted the Lyman spring loaded decapper (got it with the die pack) so that it ejected later in the stroke so that hopefully the primer would be closer to seated upon the click of the decapper.  made 70 with no priming issues.  A little hopeful but will try more tomorrow to see and if it still sucks try rearranging the dies like the post you mentioned.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update on my Evo's vacation to Mk7 in Florida. I mailed my press off to Mk7 for a rebuild a few weeks ago and it came back last week. If you read my earlier posts my machine is one of the earlier ones and I had all manner of issues. I had some time over the weekend to finish setting up and after some initial tweaking I ran 50 rounds through the press late last night. 48 of the 50 dropped into the cases checker without issue. The other 2 only sat high by less than a 1/32" but did seat if I pushed on them. However, both of those rounds plunked tested in my barrel without issue, so I call that a pass. The new powder dropper is great and fine tuning is much easier. Once set up I checked a few rounds and it was spot on. Overall the press feels great and I think it's fair to say it's working as expected and far better than before. I simply never got 50 rounds in a row off the machine that all case checked before!

 

Attached a few photos of my set up. I build a 1" tube ceiling hanger with some stock I had laying around so I could get the case feeder and MrBulletfeeder off the press. I found with all that extra height up high on the press the whole press would vibrate when I cranked on the handle. This is in part due to table set up, but I'm too lazy to bend over any more and as this is an old Hamilton Drafting Table it will go up and down via an electric motor. Really handle for looking at something down low on the press! The concrete block add stability and the green tie downs lock the blocks to the base, but still allow the table top to go up and down. Normally the table top is in the all the way down positions. After initial testing this set up seems to be working fine.

 

I'm very happy with all the help I received from Misty and Tom of Mk7. Customer service was/is top notch and they went the extra mile to get my press up and running. Just wish that more companies would follow Mk7's lead on customer service. Thanks again Mk7!

 

Press_2.jpg

Press_1.jpg

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Anyone have any odd noises on downstroke? I get a crazy noise that sounds like binding on downstroke after 500 rounds to where I have to stop the press and grease this area in the picture and it reduces it from happening but the noise is still there. I have the entire tool head removed as well to pinpoint where its coming from. 

 

https://i.imgur.com/luvixH5.jpg

 

Video below. You can hear binding/click a little bit on downstroke. This is after a fresh greasing, after 400-500 rounds if you do a manual jog down you can hear it binding more on downstroke at that point.

 

https://i.imgur.com/ouSBdqr.mp4

Edited by Thetimb
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2 hours ago, Thetimb said:

Anyone have any odd noises on downstroke? I get a crazy noise that sounds like binding on downstroke after 500 rounds to where I have to stop the press and grease this area in the picture and it reduces it from happening but the noise is still there. I have the entire tool head removed as well to pinpoint where its coming from. 

 

https://i.imgur.com/luvixH5.jpg

 

Video below. You can hear binding/click a little bit on downstroke. This is after a fresh greasing, after 400-500 rounds if you do a manual jog down you can hear it binding more on downstroke at that point.

 

https://i.imgur.com/ouSBdqr.mp4

 

 

I ran the press without the tool head for 100-200 rounds and got over zealous with the red n. tacky on the crank and that seems to of fixed the problem. 

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On 3/1/2020 at 10:23 AM, MountainMan said:

I now have the automated primer collator. I had occasional sideways primers that was apparently due to some chattery milling marks on the primer collator bowl, as the issue resolved after I smoothed those out per Mark7 support suggestions.

 

i was experiencing variable primer heights using mixed brass. Other than the obvious primer seating depth adjustment bolt setting, the other items I’ve found that impact primer seating variability include the shellplate lock nut position, and the use and depth of a primer seating station hold down die. Both of these factors are noted by Mark 7 recommendations obviously.

 

for the shellplate, I found it needs to be much tighter than what the 1050 was. I can just barely move it by hand when the shellplate is “cleared’ by the so-named tablet screen button. I found that by tightening the nut until a 0.008” feeler gauge just fits under the shellplate seemed to be the right tightness (measured at the last station where the undersurface is easily accessible where finished rounds drop off the shellplate).

 

also I was using a resizing die with the center decap insert removed....I actually use a U die (9mm)...and unless it’s fully screwed down, the shellplate flexes variably (mixed brass) leading to variable primer depths.

 

this setup requires lubed cases and some experimentation with clutch settings....I use One shot to lube the cases and my clutch setting is 4.

 

has anyone else experience or advice to offer? Things are running pretty smoothly now for me, I’m satisfied. 
 

 


where did they have you sand down on the bowl? I am setting sideways primers that get stuck under the black arm in the bowl. It stops the rest of the primers from moving on and I constantly have to use an Allen and knock those sideways primers back into the bowl. 
 

I was told they were working on a new primer collator bowl that fixes all these issues but haven’t seen or heard anything. 

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5 hours ago, Thetimb said:

What’s the recommended tightness for the shell plate nut that has the allen set screws?


I asked Misty the same question. Didn’t get a clear answer. Essentially tighten it as much as you can allowing it to index properly. With the 1050, I tightened it hard then backed off 1/8 or so turn. Revo/Evo seem to like it tighter. 
 

would be great to see other experiences.

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3 hours ago, DJRyan13 said:


I asked Misty the same question. Didn’t get a clear answer. Essentially tighten it as much as you can allowing it to index properly. With the 1050, I tightened it hard then backed off 1/8 or so turn. Revo/Evo seem to like it tighter. 
 

would be great to see other experiences.


too tight and you will trigger jamsense and other stuff. I had to muck with it to find a sweet spot. It was kind of a pain to where I don’t want to take it off again. I spent a good 20 minutes trying to find the sweet spot. 

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9 hours ago, Thetimb said:


where did they have you sand down on the bowl? I am setting sideways primers that get stuck under the black arm in the bowl. It stops the rest of the primers from moving on and I constantly have to use an Allen and knock those sideways primers back into the bowl. 
 

I was told they were working on a new primer collator bowl that fixes all these issues but haven’t seen or heard anything. 

 

Well i had the same problem, it was a pain in the bud so i cut some ziptie to a V shape pusher and glued it onto the black arm. Since i hate crappy fixes, a few months later I designed and printed pusher and feeder thingy. Works perfect.

I had upside down primers (S&B SP) from day one, but only 1-2 in a 1000. When I was loading 223 with S&B SR I had up to 8 in a 1000. So I did some research and found that my primer bowl handles Large primers with no issues, but small ones causing trouble. Long story short, some duct tape in the area where up side down primers get sorted out, fixed that problem. Last session 0 up side down primers in a 5k Round session!

 

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14 hours ago, Steyrarms said:

 

Well i had the same problem, it was a pain in the bud so i cut some ziptie to a V shape pusher and glued it onto the black arm. Since i hate crappy fixes, a few months later I designed and printed pusher and feeder thingy. Works perfect.

I had upside down primers (S&B SP) from day one, but only 1-2 in a 1000. When I was loading 223 with S&B SR I had up to 8 in a 1000. So I did some research and found that my primer bowl handles Large primers with no issues, but small ones causing trouble. Long story short, some duct tape in the area where up side down primers get sorted out, fixed that problem. Last session 0 up side down primers in a 5k Round session!

 


mind sharing the stl?

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98feb4cb-067a-427b-b4zj8g.jpegNot sure i still have it. Printed 2, should last forever. 

 

M7 should make them out of aluminium. It does require a bit of filing to get a nice sharp edge on the beginning of the ramp.

 

You can also see the duct tape where the cut out is, works perfect.

I guess they tried the „one bowl fits small and large primer“ approach... nope it does not!!! 

 

This is something you mainly see with US products. The idea is good, the effort is there but instead of going the extra mile, they (all kind of US manufacturers) go shortcuts. In the end all they got are frustrated customers and a lot of upgrades.

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the new bowls they've moved that wiper to after the first cutout to cure the issue of primers bunching up at the wiper. There is a new piece to replace the black finger that primers go sideways under, in both aluminum and plastic, works great for me, no more sideways primers at all. 

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9 hours ago, slavex said:

the new bowls they've moved that wiper to after the first cutout to cure the issue of primers bunching up at the wiper. There is a new piece to replace the black finger that primers go sideways under, in both aluminum and plastic, works great for me, no more sideways primers at all. 

 

Yah I am waiting on that new bowl myself. So while trying to figure out my primer issues I noticed that the way my evo with the onboard primer collator index's causes a lot of movement on the back pf the press that impacts the primer bowl. If you turn the sound on you can hear when it index's and see what it does to the primer bowl.

 

Does everyones evo with a collator index like this or does mine need to be smoothed out some how? Don'd mind the squeak, I quickly ran out to record this. 

 

https://imgur.com/a/kgxuwhj

Edited by Thetimb
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Well, you are in troubles. 

 

No your Evo should not shake like that, nighter should it squeak.

 

I just disassembled, cleaned and greased my press yesterday and she runs smooth like silk.

I did had a bit a jerking once, when I assembled the toolhead with the ram to the top.

 

So here is your homework:

Remove the toolhead and run it again —> if the jerking is gone... happy days, you need to pay more attention when installing the toolhead.

 

If the jerking remains, remove the shell plate and run the press again —>

 if she still jerks, you know it comes from the main shaft or the connected mechanic.

Also remove the primer disc since dirt beneath can cause troubles too.

 

If all that does not help, it comes from the main pin mechanic or the tire under the primer disc.

 

Another important thing, make sure the belt of the drive is really tight, otherwise you will get backlash.

 

Finally what is wrong with your primer bowl? Seems everyone except me gets a new one :) 

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5 minutes ago, Steyrarms said:

Well, you are in troubles. 

 

No your Evo should not shake like that, nighter should it squeak.

 

I just disassembled, cleaned and greased my press yesterday and she runs smooth like silk.

I did had a bit a jerking once, when I assembled the toolhead with the ram to the top.

 

So here is your homework:

Remove the toolhead and run it again —> if the jerking is gone... happy days, you need to pay more attention when installing the toolhead.

 

If the jerking remains, remove the shell plate and run the press again —>

 if she still jerks, you know it comes from the main shaft or the connected mechanic.

Also remove the primer disc since dirt beneath can cause troubles too.

 

If all that does not help, it comes from the main pin mechanic or the tire under the primer disc.

 

Another important thing, make sure the belt of the drive is really tight, otherwise you will get backlash.

 

Finally what is wrong with your primer bowl? Seems everyone except me gets a new one :) 


 

It jerks like that with the tool head off and shell plate off. Mark7 installed the collator and it came back to me like this. I just assumed it was normal. 
 

The squeak is gone I had ran 1k through it before the video and needed to grease the pins. 

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2 hours ago, Steyrarms said:

Holy cow, I will make a video of mine tomorrow.

If my press would run like this, I would return it straight away!

 

 

Yah I am starting to think this is part of my problem on some other issues I am having. Here is a video with no plate or tool head.

 

I think its the main shaft. There is something wonky with it when its done on downstroke and entering the upstroke. Video below, turn on sound. 

 

Definitely something going on on the upstroke. The loud clicking on upstroke is the primer collator assembly underneath moving around but its not enough to shake the entire primer assembly.

 

I can see the press tablet shake when it happens as well as the primer bowl. I am guessing something is jacked with the main shaft. I am pretty sure this is one of the first couple of machines DAA shipped a while ago. It has low miles and has been back to Mark 7 once before. 

 

https://imgur.com/a/94uXYWS

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wow I can't imagine what that clunking sound is at all. It doesn't sound like the clunk I once had that disappeared when I tore it down and put it back together (I think that the base plate can maybe twist a bit when you're moving it and that can make things go clunk). 

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