DJRyan13

isn’t the primer collator a PITA to change size? I bought a second Revo to avoid changing.

Graf’s dealer pricing ain’t bad too but limited availability. If you have FFL, that is a good option.

Tried to order dies a few months ago. Waited 2 months... nothing. Asked about it.. he said he had a family issue. Waited another month... Nothing. Texted and called... Nothing. Week later.. texted. He said his tool is broke and can’t make anything. Said he refunded everyone. Not me. Submitted Paypal request for refund and got money back. Use paypal if you order. Let me know if his tool is working again.

Yeah, my point was next time someone is looking for a $500 case feeder, I would choose that one.

I wonder if you can get the Feedinator delivered down under.... I have been using that for most of my needs as of late.

yeah, you get good and bad motors. Mine have worked well. That pic does look like something happened either a massive voltage spike or a manufacturing defect that slowly burned it out. You run it a lot? I don’t know what the reliability requirements are for this but for comparison, micro electronics for cars are rated for 20yrs with an assumed 10% duty cycle. Meaning you would likely not run it more than 2yrs of time during that 20yrs.

I was loading the 38 special Remington JHP bullets and somehow one cycled around to decap station. The pin went right through the side of the bullet and out the other side and Revo press locked up. I removed the bullet. Pin and die were fine and started on my way again. Wish I took a picture.

Was yours the older double speed or variable speed? I bought the variable speed upgrade for one of my case feeders and still have the old motor which works fine. Pay for shipping and it’s yours. PM me.

Why would you want to? You have plenty of stations, no? Doesn’t make sense to expand in the powder station unless you have to. Expander die are even cheaper than this part.

It’s harder to “feel” things on a 1050. So, you can easily get a missed decap going into the primer station. I only use the swage mechanism when I am swaging which isn’t often as it’s only a one time thing. Good news is a primer being inserted into a case will just blow that primer and not ignite the stack. Doesn’t always ignite the primer either (just crushes it). The only time I get ignited primers in the 1050 is if I have a small pistol primer 45acp when running LP. The 1050 is build like a tank. It can handle the odd screw up. Eventually, I added an autodrive (M7) which has enough sensors to catch things. For example, my favorite is the decap sensor). If a primer doesn’t fall out during decap, the machine stops. Been a long time since I have manually pulled a handle on the 1050 so maybe others can add to the discussion.

You won’t have to crimp the 40 much either so worth trying. I am trying to seat/crimp 38S&W now with the Lee seating die. Not happening. I just need to take the bell out. I don’t suspect those mouse fart loads are going to move the bullets in the cylinder.

The popular Lee FCD (not the collet version) has a sizing ring on it that resizes the case post seating while it crimps. This is good and bad. It helps cover up issues if you had trouble sizing, expanding, seating. Some purists think that is insane. I personally thinks its just added quality protection. BUT, using it with cast (coated or any) is a little bad because it can size down the bullet that you were so careful to size to your bore. For coated bullets it can even ruin the coating. Best way to check is any of this is true is to pull some bullets after you seat to see if coating and size of bullet is still good. Other brands of crimp die don’t have the above protection but crimping separately easier an easier setup. If you look at DAA’s description, they even suggest it is difficult to get the die set correctly. I agree but no harder than any other seat/crimp die. Some folks really like Hornady seat/crimp dies as they like the setup. I have difficulty reading instructions because I am a real man who doesn’t need no stinking instructions. But if you are a better man than me, you can do it. Plenty of folks do (and are!). Personally, if you have to choose between between the safety check of a powder die or making sure your rounds feed perfectly, I would choose the safety. If you are concerned about function for a match, you can always get one of those case gauges to check your rounds after.

What makes their 2 in 1 any different than most other seating dies with crimp function? Theirs looks like a Lee die, no?

Ask yourself this, why are you crimping 223? Never a need IMO. Powder check away.....

It won’t hurt anything. You can always tumble the finished rounds after if you really want to.