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Tanfastic

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About Tanfastic

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  • Birthday August 7

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  • Location
    Area 3
  • Interests
    USPSA Competition

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  1. I started with an Evo and added the autodrive later to make it an Evo Pro, so yes you can do that. It costs a few hundred bucks more to upgrade than just buying the Evo Pro up front, so that's a consideration. My advice would be that if you think you WILL add the autodrive at some point, just do it up front and be done with it. I pulled the handle on the Evo for 6 months (after 2 years with a manual 650) and definitely wouldn't give up the autodrive now. Probably depends on how much you load, I'm running about 40,000 rounds per year right now.
  2. Already discussions about it on the main Mark 7 discussion thread.
  3. It should be a good thing. It's not an old established company that a bigger company acquires to milk it like a cash cow, it's a fast-growing hot new thing with advanced engineering and serious "growing pains". The stability of a larger backer with significantly more production capacity and the ability to fund the growth sounds great to me. They're totally overwhelmed with how fast the presses took off in the market and have been playing catch-up for a year now, and never catching up. I'm sure it will still take a while to get everything stabilized, and in the meantime I've become pretty well versed in keeping my press running with proactive maintenance and troubleshooting. I'm well over 40,000 rounds loaded now, starting as a manual Evo press for the first 10,000 or so and then adding the Autodrive.
  4. The tube is definitely a lot nicer on the MK7 one, but I'm sure you can find that sort of thing somewhere else also.
  5. Port #1 which is the top right-hand port on the side of the autodrive (the side that the on/off switch is on), is for PrimerSense and if you have SwageSense then it pigtails into that as well.
  6. Not sure what that means, but I had one with a shallower spring pocket where the Wolff spring wouldn't go in, and I just clipped one coil off the spring and it's still happy 10k rounds later.
  7. You can buy a non-tapped stock curved trigger for $29, I have that in both of my Stock 2's: Link to BSPS
  8. Agreed, I was hoping that was the answer!
  9. Will these be a drop-in or is fitting required?
  10. The 92X looks pretty legit, very cool to see Beretta stepping up with a dedicated competition pistol!
  11. The Xtreme does already have the good 1-piece sear in it, so that's a plus, it's worth $120. The trigger bar is also slick, but no slicker than you can make a standard trigger bar, so no real value there. And if you like the flatter Xtreme trigger, that's a plus too. Personally, I didn't like the extra reach so I swapped it out for a standard curved trigger. I think if you can get a deal on the Xtreme it's worth considering, all of the "just get a standard Stock 2" calls are purely based upon price. The Xtreme IS better, it's just a matter of what that is worth to you.
  12. This I will say, if you're willing to do the work on your gun yourself, and do it correctly and with great attention to detail, there's no better way to get the smoothest function. Better than ANY gunsmith is going to do for you, since you'll be able to spend a lot more time on it than they can. The box-stock Xtreme is definitely a LOT better than the box-stock Stock 2, but it's nowhere near as good as a worked-over Stock 2. There's a lot of great resources out here to get you started, and @MemphisMechanic made a great series of YouTube videos on it a couple years ago, I'd say watch those and see if it looks like something you want to tackle. I don't remember exactly, but if I recall the stock trigger pull weights on my Xtreme were something like 3-4 lb. SA and 7-8 lb. DA, and the Stock 2 was 4-5 lb SA and 10 lb. DA. After reworking and a lot of shooting, the Xtreme (which is my match gun) is now 1.7 lb. SA and 4.8 lb. DA. And it's not just spring weights that are lighter, all of the polishing makes a HUGE difference. The trigger pull weight does make it easier to shoot, but IMO the smooth function is even more important, both for ease of shooting as well as reliability. You can do exactly the same thing to a standard Stock 2 and get the same function, there's nothing in the Xtreme that you can't duplicate or improve upon with a standard Stock 2, it just won't look as cool as the Xtreme. And it DOES look cool, mine has been a conversation piece at matches ever since I got it, whereas when I shoot my standard Stock 2 at some practice matches it's just another nickel-plated sissy pistol! If you're NOT willing to do the work yourself, then have a competent gunsmith do it. Patriot Defense does a great job and makes aftermarket parts. If you have someone in your area who is shooting Tanfos, ask around, you might find someone locally who can do it or even better, help you do it.
  13. Not in my experience. I've been rocking the Xtreme for a couple years now, and a LOT more than a few 100 draws, and the finish is pristine and still looks like new. Unless you're running a stainless steel holster, wear on the pistol finish is not an issue. The cerakote on the Xtreme is top notch.
  14. Some like the super-narrow front (.090, .100) for distant targets especially, such as the 25yd plates that you're talking about since it covers up less of the target. I've been running the .100 and while I do think there's an advantage along those lines on distant targets, I don't necessarily like it overall for function when shooting USPSA stages. It's more difficult to pick up the sight in fast transitions compared to the wider .115 I was using previously, and I may go back at some point. If all I was shooting was 25 yard plates, then I'd stick with the narrow one.
  15. Yup that happened on mine a while back, case got stuck and when I unstuck it the remnant of the spring flew off and a small broken piece was left in the holder. i just took the broken piece out and reinstalled the rest of the spring and it's still working fine now even with a slightly shorter spring.
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