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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

OptimiStick

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  • Location
    Dallas, TX
  • Interests
    Shooting, hunting, reloading, paintball
  • Real Name
    Robert

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Sees Sights Lift (7/11)

  1. Here's a guy who claims it works... Sure looks like a slow process. Doesn't seem like it'd be enough ignition, but apparently it is. Anywhere. Here ya go! *note - this is no way an endorsement. I've not tried it. Just passing on something that caught my eye. Note the second guy who had a rust warning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjc9LOBHlkE And another one using caps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InnFDDdtXP4
  2. no worries. That combo makes plenty of PF for minor too. I have some chrono stats on several different pills with it , if you want it send me a message. at 3.2gr I was having some FTF/ FTE with a few of my plastic guns (M&P and Glock). So I stay at 3.4 and above and alls good. It tightened up my groups a little too
  3. 3.4 - 3.6gr of n320 with 147gr FPs at about 1.15 is my go to load. Very accurate for me.
  4. I would not disagree - for myself. G34 is my wifes main shooter, and she much prefers the tungsten. I'm of the opinion - that I get used to whatever I'm shooting after I shoot it enough and figure it out. My g34 is really her backup gun (not officially, but you know how that goes...), so I keep it configured pretty close to hers.
  5. If you go Tungsten, the one labeled PURE TUNGSTEN GUIDE ROD FOR GEN4/5 GLOCKS from Glockstore.com is the better of the two I tried. It's a heavy one-piece uncaptured, and doesn't need the little shim adapter, but it ain't cheap. The Double Diamond Tungsten one is cheaper - thinner , not as heavy, and its a two piece. I broke the screw in part at the end. Probably within 5,000 rounds. Luckily it was @ practice and not a match. If you do go with the first Tungsten one I mentioned, pay attention to the springs. There's a link for the correct diameter springs, since it's a thicker guide-rod I run 13# recoil and 4.5# striker on my gen5 G34s and have not had any light strikes even with CCIs. One striker is stock and one is a Johnny Glocks, which I think is just a modified stock striker
  6. yeah. I switched to n320 and sport pistol. Much cleaner, (subjectively) softer.
  7. Man that's a good idea. I never thought of that. I don't like leaving primers in the mag in between sessions either. I always have cases in the hopper, so I just load until I'm out of primers. After the alarm hits I have like 5-6 in the disc usually. As others have said, you can tell by feel when you get to no primer. Especially since you're 'looking for it' after the alarm goes off. Then I just pull the cases from station 2 a few times as I index the last few rounds around and out. Then shut it down and done.
  8. Yeah, we talked about it a few years ago when I took his class. At the time he said he still shot Nationals and a few big matches, but mainly traveled and taught.
  9. interesting. I have a Vogel Trigger and a Johnny Glocks trigger/striker in two Gen5 G34s. Both are 4.5# strikers I believe. Both are the same pull weight around 3lbs. The JG is a little more of a rolling break and Vogels is a little crisper -but there's really not much difference between the two to be honest. But both definitely better than stock.
  10. Apex trigger fixed my issue. Not a fun install btw.
  11. I picked up a 2.0 CORE, and the Apex kit. Will install that here shortly. The stock trigger is...odd. It's certainly lighter /crisper break than the 1.0. Still a ton of travel, though it's not gritty anymore. But interestingly, while dryfiring, I get intermittent dead trigger. After play with it, it has to do with the geometry of the hinge. If I don't put a tiny bit of sideways pressure on the trigger as I pull, it won't release the sear. But as soon as I put just a tiny bit of pressure inwards with my trigger finger, then it does. Hopefully the Apex solves that with the non-hinged trigger.
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