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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Steyrarms

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  1. Well it sounds much much better now. I think of you spend some hours you will eventually find out what it is. Once thats solved, she will run like queen of AP press. Did you check the top and bottom distances to? ATB Sascha
  2. Great stuff, did you got some help from M7 or did you found it out by yourself? I have not got an answer on my rather angry post on the M7comunity regarding the primer collator, since I now know what they have changed, it’s much easier for me to argue with them.
  3. So as promissed here some measurements. Tool head at this Point is 0.999" thick When at the Bottom, from the top of the tool head to the Surface of the press it is 1.7370" This how and where i measure, ensure you are going perfectly vertical, otherwise it would mess up the results When the ram is on the top, i got 5.2265" Same measurement Point as before
  4. Ok, I watched the Video a few mor times, do yourself a favour and record in slow motion as steady as you can, one time with the crank mechanissm and the rear guid rod in the picture and one time with the index mechanism and the crank mechanism in the picture. I was watching the last video about 10 times, to much movement from you in it, but you can clearly see a few times, the clonk does not happen at top position but on its way to it. It is very hard to tell, if it is happening when the rear guide rod exits the bushing, what would indicate a misalignment. Our if it is
  5. Even after more than 50k strokes, i do not hav such bad wear marks from my upper Stopping pin. Also check the grub screws, they lock pretty far out, mine are flush. As a very wild guess, since I don‘t know exactly how the plc is programmed, it seams to me, that you have just a bit to less downstroke during calibration or the set screw for indexing and upstroke is set far in. As a next step, I will calibrate my press tomorrow and than run it to bottom with the button. Once the toolhead is bottomed out, i will measure the disdance from shell plate toolhead. I will ma
  6. More important than the new position of the wiper, is the way the cut outs are milled, you can spot the difference straight away, this looks a lot more like a Small primer bowl than the old one. Now I just need to get hold of somebody to ship it to me in Austria
  7. Here you go, I was running on different speeds ro show you how it should be. https://streamable.com/2nb31u I have 2-3 ideas what it could be, first the indexing, to check that, you need to revove the Primer disk attachement (the whole thing!) Then check if indexing is freely moving. Next would be the Guid rod of the crank mechanism itself. You got that nice big Clear plastic window in the front to se into the core, and in the back you got another one to access the guide rod. This rod needs oil every now and than, but even more important it need to be aligned perfec
  8. Holy cow, I will make a video of mine tomorrow. If my press would run like this, I would return it straight away!
  9. Well, you are in troubles. No your Evo should not shake like that, nighter should it squeak. I just disassembled, cleaned and greased my press yesterday and she runs smooth like silk. I did had a bit a jerking once, when I assembled the toolhead with the ram to the top. So here is your homework: Remove the toolhead and run it again —> if the jerking is gone... happy days, you need to pay more attention when installing the toolhead. If the jerking remains, remove the shell plate and run the press again —> if she still jerks,
  10. Not sure i still have it. Printed 2, should last forever. M7 should make them out of aluminium. It does require a bit of filing to get a nice sharp edge on the beginning of the ramp. You can also see the duct tape where the cut out is, works perfect. I guess they tried the „one bowl fits small and large primer“ approach... nope it does not!!! This is something you mainly see with US products. The idea is good, the effort is there but instead of going the extra mile, they (all kind of US manufacturers) go shortcuts. In the end all they got are frustrat
  11. Well i had the same problem, it was a pain in the bud so i cut some ziptie to a V shape pusher and glued it onto the black arm. Since i hate crappy fixes, a few months later I designed and printed pusher and feeder thingy. Works perfect. I had upside down primers (S&B SP) from day one, but only 1-2 in a 1000. When I was loading 223 with S&B SR I had up to 8 in a 1000. So I did some research and found that my primer bowl handles Large primers with no issues, but small ones causing trouble. Long story short, some duct tape in the area where up side down primers get sorted out, fixed
  12. I have a well running M7 EVO Pro and process batches of 10k 223. When it comes to trimming, life sucks a bit, I use the Dillon RT1500, I pre size the brass to 80-85% and than do the final sizing and trimming with the RT I use sorted brass only and always use the same lube. I learned quickly on my old 1050, that is isn‘t a good idea to mix different brass brands, since the length variation is massive. With sorted brass and the RT1500 i got 0.2mm or 0.078inch of variation. According to Dillon about half of it comes from the bearing play in the RT trimmer.
  13. Electronic or Mechanical Powder measure? If it is the Mechanical one, just use stronger springs. It is the powder that jams the movement. Worst case, send it back to M7 or DAA
  14. Ultimaker 2+, before the toolheads, I never printed a single thing in 3D. I read a bout it and watched some Yt videos, used the settings BASF provided for their Tough PLA and started with the first Toolhead stand..... 18h later it was done. Appart from design, the print was ok. After a few small revisions, I printed the next one. Now I got 3x 223, 3x 9mm (on is in the making right now) and after I go for another 2x 308. In between i printed out a primer kicker for the M7 primer collator. It looks like I got the large primer bowl. Every time a primer came standing upright to the
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