S&W Performance Center 627 question

[MikeBurgess]

1 minute ago, SIGcurious said:

 

That's what I was thinking (no reloads), ... but I thought the shorter case was popular due to preventing light 1st strikes from where the powder lies inside the case.  Or is that totally powder dependent and not really an issue either for Steel? 

its powder/ load dependent and for steel not really a issue, I would probably load with something on the bulkier side and call it good. you would have to be running silly light loads to have a functional problem with powder position in the case, you may have a larger velocity spread than a full case load but for steel that should not be a issue. 

[MWP]

8 hours ago, SIGcurious said:

 

That's what I was thinking (no reloads), ... but I thought the shorter case was popular due to preventing light 1st strikes from where the powder lies inside the case.  Or is that totally powder dependent and not really an issue either for Steel? 

If you use a special case, make a light load with a fast powder to keep the gun clean, use a light bullet with means you will have a relatively empty case, and you’re very very very fast- you can make the gun squib. 

 

Very fast. 

 

And this is only a problem on the first shot. 

Edited January 31, 2020 by MWP

[alecmc]

1 hour ago, MWP said:

If you use a special case, make a light load with a fast powder to keep the gun clean, use a light bullet with means you will have a relatively empty case, and you’re very very very fast- you can make the gun squib. 

 

Very fast. 

 

And this is only a problem on the first shot. 

 

Solution - Embrace the suck and draw slow.

 

Sincerely, 38 special steel challenge shooter

 

[MWP]

1 hour ago, alecmc said:

 

Solution - Embrace the suck and draw slow.

 

Sincerely, 38 special steel challenge shooter

 

I don’t think you’re slow. But, you can still shoot specials.

Edited January 31, 2020 by MWP

[alecmc]

39 minutes ago, MWP said:

I don’t think you’re slow. But, you can still shoot specials.

 

Dont get me wrong, i've certainly had the "poofer" on the draw before. But doesnt happen that often, few times a year. Steel Challenge draws between 1.05 - 1.30 sec depending on stage.

 

 

[AzShooter]

For years I shot .38s with a light charge of Bullseye, 4.0 grains and a 158 gr LRN.  It's not the lightest charge but I could also use it for USPSA matches and had no problem making power factor. Before that I used my 625 with 3 grains of Bullseye and a 230 grain LRN.  Wow was that a light load.  Reloaded super fast but hardly ever needed a reload.  My fastest Steel Challenge times were with the 625.  It was accurate and I hardly ever missed a shot.  

 

With 8 shots in the gun, if you are paying attention to your sights, you should never have to reload.  The length of the case should not matter.

 

I found that shooting a light bullet, even though it should be les recoil, the felt recoil was better with the heavy bullets.  Only exception was 148 grain wadcutter loads.  Those are real light and accurate.  Again, you don't count on having to reload but if you practice even the full wadcutter isn't bad.

 

Just my thoughts.  Your millage may be different.

[Joe4d]

20 hours ago, MikeBurgess said:

For steel challenge the short colts are not necessary, if your set up for 38 spl or just want to buy factory. the short colt brass shines for doing reloads, but at a steel match those should be off the clock so no advantage to the short brass. that said I run one load for my 627s for USPSA,ICORE and Steel for simplicity sake.

 

 

Yeh I just caught that, OP said steel challenge and many of the posters are worrying about chamfers, crimps and SC,, non of which matter in a non reload game.
Get the gun, Pop the side plate,  hit it with some cleaner, pack it with "FLITZ" put cover back on, dry fire 500 times, take off cover and clean/lube , make sure ur strain screw is tight and has some blue loctitght on it. VOILLA ! action job, now go have fun with some light 38 special loads.
DOnt worry about the other stuff till you start loosing by single digit seconds.

[SIGcurious]

Thanks everyone.  Think I'll just start simple and go with regular 38 Special.  Any 38 Sp. loads for Steel you like that aren't concerned with power factors?

[PatJones]

Thanks everyone.  Think I'll just start simple and go with regular 38 Special.  Any 38 Sp. loads for Steel you like that aren't concerned with power factors?

Try any published starting load for a powder you already have at the house.

I like a bulkier powder in the big cases. Not the cleanest, but Unique works fine and is less position sensitive.

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[ysrracer]

3 hours ago, SIGcurious said:

Thanks everyone.  Think I'll just start simple and go with regular 38 Special.  Any 38 Sp. loads for Steel you like that aren't concerned with power factors?

 

I've got half a dozen loads that don't make minor despite what all the books say. Want one of those?

 

[Carmoney]

On 1/31/2020 at 6:01 AM, Joe4d said:

Yeh I just caught that, OP said steel challenge and many of the posters are worrying about chamfers, crimps and SC,, non of which matter in a non reload game.
Get the gun, Pop the side plate,  hit it with some cleaner, pack it with "FLITZ" put cover back on, dry fire 500 times, take off cover and clean/lube , make sure ur strain screw is tight and has some blue loctitght on it. VOILLA ! action job, now go have fun with some light 38 special loads.
DOnt worry about the other stuff till you start loosing by single digit seconds.

 

What?  Not toothpaste?  Normally this sort of post involves a recommendation to fill the action with toothpaste.  

[PatJones]

 
What?  Not toothpaste?  Normally this sort of post involves a recommendation to fill the action with toothpaste.  

Why doesn't Benos have a "Like" button?

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[ysrracer]

3 hours ago, Carmoney said:

 

What?  Not toothpaste?  Normally this sort of post involves a recommendation to fill the action with toothpaste.  

 

Colgate or Crest?

 

[Distant Thunder]

3 hours ago, ysrracer said:

 

Colgate or Crest?

 

 

And Whitening or Cleaning? Does the Minty Fresh add anything to the process? I'm so confused.

[Dr. Phil]

7 hours ago, Carmoney said:

 

What?  Not toothpaste?  Normally this sort of post involves a recommendation to fill the action with toothpaste.  

 

Okay, now you mean the regular toothpaste, and not the gel, right?

And leave it in there right?

No more gunsmith trigger jobs?

Where's my Wally World screwdriver set?!

 

[mchapman]

12 hours ago, Carmoney said:

 

What?  Not toothpaste?  Normally this sort of post involves a recommendation to fill the action with toothpaste.  

I'm older and don't use the regular stuff, will denture cream work as well? 

[pskys2]

9 hours ago, Distant Thunder said:

 

And Whitening or Cleaning? Does the Minty Fresh add anything to the process? I'm so confused.

Makes you "light" headed!

[jhgtyre]

3 hours ago, mchapman said:

I'm older and don't use the regular stuff, will denture cream work as well?

It might.  If you use Preparation-H be careful not to leave it on too long, the parts will shrink.

[Joe4d]

well flitz has very fine aluminum oxide grit in it, No idea about toothpaste...  Hey do some googling, the .25 cent action job has been around for quite some time

[kimel]

On 1/27/2020 at 6:58 PM, kimel said:

Just got one myself.  Was going to send it to TK, but budget won’t allow for that and the work I plan to do isn’t out of my comfort zone.  
Mine will get:

cylinder chamfer - has some but not quite enough and none under the ejector star

Apex hammer, firing pin, and spring kit

new front sight immediately and likely a new rear as well

smooth up the action.  I’ve done a couple others and they came out well

lock delete

hogue grip - already done

 

May crown the barrel at some point.  Mine isn’t even chamfered. Forcing cone is rough like it just came out of the chop saw.  Might have to work on that...someday, unless it proves to be an issue.
 

Timing is good, lockup is okay but eventually will deal with that, probably when I replace the trigger and rebound bar on down the road.

 

Well, new front is in (0.115 Dawson), lock deleted, Apex hammer/springs/firing pin installed, stoned rebound block etc.  Don’t own a working trigger gauge but it feels about half or less what it was.  Chamfering is next after I defeat this cold so I can tolerate being in the unheated shop.  
 

I leave the toothpaste for its intended purpose and I’m out of Flitz so just the Arkansas stones.  
 

Whole job took less than 90 minutes and most of that was making up new ways to string profanity together fighting the stupid lock, whilst not losing the damn spring, again.

[Distant Thunder]

21 hours ago, kimel said:

Well, new front is in (0.115 Dawson), lock deleted, Apex hammer/springs/firing pin installed, stoned rebound block etc.  Don’t own a working trigger gauge but it feels about half or less what it was.  Chamfering is next after I defeat this cold so I can tolerate being in the unheated shop.  
 

I leave the toothpaste for its intended purpose and I’m out of Flitz so just the Arkansas stones.  
 

Whole job took less than 90 minutes and most of that was making up new ways to string profanity together fighting the stupid lock, whilst not losing the damn spring, again.

 

It sounds like you might want to get a copy of "The Everyday Guide To The Use (And Misuse) of Colorful Expletives". It's kinda the Roget's Thesaurus of curse words. I guarantee you'll never be stuck for something to say ever again.