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About pskys2

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    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 06/24/1956

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    Outside of Family, Home, Farm: IPSC and about anything that goes "Bang"!
  • Real Name
    Dave Williams

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  1. pskys2

    Smith 929

    If you want Major PF loads in a S&W get a 627. If you're worried about picking up loose 9mm rounds after a match and fear a 9 Major just don't pick up loose rounds. I make it a hard edict, I never pick up loaded rounds from the ground. The only caveat is if I KNOW it was my round and I'm dead certain I saw it fall to that point. A reload might be safe in one gun and dangerous in another. If you reload 9mm major ammo for an Open gun, it would be wise to use 1) specific bullet for major (JHP's are the most accurate and work best in Open anyway) and 2) use a specific case for Revolver (if you match up your moon clips with a specific case it will work best). But being as all your 9mm Revolver rounds will be moon clipped it shouldn't be too hard to keep them separated.
  2. Brownells sells a file that works on the Extractor Ratchets. It will have a safe side, as you want to only cut the "bumps" on one side not the face of the Extractor. It is a trial and error, one step at a time job. It is easy to cut too much and have slow timing. Also before you start make sure the chamfers are cut the way you want. Because opening up the cylinder chamfers can change timing a bit.
  3. Many years ago actually had a guy show up to a local Pistol Match with what he claimed was his PPC loads, he shot a Revolver, at 25 yards some of his bullets actually stuck in the target. They did not have enough velocity to even penetrate cardboard. I couldn't score some as they bounced off leaving only a small depression and I wouldn't score the ones that stuck in the target.
  4. I use the strong hand reload, switching hands, and the only time I've had the crane/cylinder assembly act up is when the screw has loosened up. Another annoying little habit of the S&W design. A little 242 takes care of that. I have occasionally used the weak hand, depending on a COF, but I guess I'm not overly aggressive as I was lucky to never have the issue.
  5. In Steel Challenge matches I've shot 45's with 185's at 650 f/s, while soft going that slow makes it very hard to time things. I literally would shoot a plate and be moving to the next position on Outer Limits before I heard the ring of steel. And to make 120 pf with a 200 only needs 600 f/s. I did use 185's in a 45 acp/gap at about 720 f/s. Like the 38 sc much better though.
  6. Midway and Brownells also carry the old style screws.
  7. I am a year away from Super Sr.! Some of it could also be not having seriously practiced for a bit. Trying to remedy that now!
  8. Ed McGivern always stated shooting a revolver had a flywheel effect from the cylinder rotation. And he could shoot faster with a revolver, all steel cylinders at that time, than with a 1911. Don't know about the last but the flywheel effect may have some merit. BUT, a lighter cylinder would be easier to start, have less mass to strain the bolt & possibly less torque(?) I have a PC 625 & a PC 627, the 625 cylinder is lighter. I've noticed that I used to be able to get .18 and less splits with the 625 whereas now, with the 627, I struggle to break .20. I thought it was just age. Maybe not? I also had an Apex 4.5# trigger on that 625 at one point. I never could get used to it, the feel of a 4-4.5# action kept my finger twitching as if it was a 1911 and I ended up short stroking too much. Then as the gun wore in, it developed the occasional light strike. Jacked the action up to 5.5# for both and have had no more light strikes. And am more confident in my stroke, leading to almost no short strokes (I can still brain fart and do it though). I ran that light trigger for almost a year before changed. But some do benefit from them.
  9. Now here is the man with a plan! I like it!
  10. Or maybe they have a full time staff and with the quality of some of their stuff they are swamped with returns!? Most likely the real reason is some time consuming minutia bureaucratic governmental corporate legalese issues that take as long to navigate, proportionally, as it took to write this? But then how long did it take for the last gun sent to a name gunsmith? I'm just happy when I get one back, not lost, and fixed right! But it is frustrating, scary, sad, tinged with feelings of loss and despair when one of my prized objects is out of my hands.
  11. I have about 1/3 of a can of a pound of Unique I bought in 1973? I even loaded some 44 special SWC loads last year with it, and it still worked good!
  12. I'm using either also, whichever one is cheapest. So far that's been ClayDot.
  13. Either one will probably take a little work, to a lot? Either one will have a preference on loads, so development will be needed. That's half the fun though. It boils down to: 1) Do you like longer barrels? 5" vs 6" the longer the barrel the less powder used, longer sight radius is a bit more accurate but also is a bit more to swing on transitions. 2) Get quality moon clips that hold a particular brand of brass tight, that makes for better/quicker reloads. 3) You will be well served in buying one brand of brass for either and use it. In 38 Short Colt you don't have a lot of choice. In 9mm you won't be as effective if you mix range brass, or even multiple brands of brass, in reloads in your Revolver. Since you get your brass back that is not as big an issue as a semi-auto. I've watched a friend shoot his 929's one with a comp, one without in competition (RO'd him so I was at a very good angle). And at times it seemed there was a very slight reduction, other times I just couldn't see it. Which leads me to believe it's not particularly effective and his grip/stance was slightly different between them. 4) The comp on the 929, like the V Comp 627 is retained by a pass through bolt. That bolt can loosen & when it does it will degrade accuracy.
  14. What bullet too? I've had some Moly Coated Bullets of questionable quality years ago that did something similar. You can usually see bits of powder if that's it and a quick blow into the holes usually clear it. If it's bullet and/or powder leaving a soot like caking it will take a brush to clean it out. I've had good luck with Poly Coated Bullets from ACME, Bayou, Precision, BBI, Blue Bullets & MBC with Clays/ClayDot & Titegroup in 38 Short Colts. Titegroup can give you problems if you go too light on the pressures, and that is easier to do in a 38 Special case for sure. Clays/ClayDot seem to have a lower threshold though. Does it do it with Plated or Jacketed too?
  15. If you don't see any powder granules you might try a Taper Crimp Die. Sometimes a Roll Crimp can bulge the case enough to hang up. Especially if you are using brass that has different OAL's. Taper Crimp is more forgiving on that. IF that turns out to be the case, then you may need less Roll Crimping.
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