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pskys2

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About pskys2

  • Rank
    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 06/24/1956

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    Male
  • Interests
    Outside of Family, Home, Farm: IPSC and about anything that goes "Bang"!
  • Real Name
    Dave Williams

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  1. pskys2

    TK custom

    I've had fully seated strain screws back out. The PPC method is a set screw, not a bad idea with heavy use even with a fully seated strain screw, kind of a machinists loc-tite. I just just use a little blue 242 loc-tite even when fully seated. You can adjust action weight by backing off the strain screw, or shortening, but only for a little of the adjustment. I liken it to fine tuning. But if you back the strain screw out too far the main spring can knuckle and the action will lock up.
  2. If you're serious try PM'ing HearthCo on this forum for Moon Clips. Since you're going with 38 short colts go with the thicker/tighter moon clips made for Starline. On the rebound spring, 1) I smooth up the various parts i.e. rebound block, DA sear, trigger & cylinder bolt. Lightly you don't want to remove metal just polish and keep the angles the same. Get Miculek's DVD on Revolver Action Job. 2) Bend Main Spring to get about 40+ounces of hammer fall, measure with a trigger gauge hooked around the hammer and at mid stroke keeping the pressure balanced. 3) Then I start with the 11# rebound spring. I have a 627 Pro that is set like that with a 5 1/2=6# action and a 627 PC that is set with an 11# rebound spring minus 2 coils for 5 1/2# action. I like both and can't tell much difference. The only thing is this is good only for Federal SP Primers seated correctly. Anything below 40 oz on hammer fall gives me the occassional mis-fire, even with Fed SPP's, and I won't knowingly compete with that. My experience is that to light off all primers takes closer to 60+oz hammer fall.
  3. pskys2

    TK custom

    Well if you tell them you're only going to use Federal Primers they should do a 5-6 lb trigger. You can swap springs and play with the tension screw yourself and get 7.5.
  4. Go to Graf's they have discounts on Super 1050's w/some caliber conversions I think a 30-30 and a 357/38 special were $1589.
  5. If you have no interest in USPSA Revolver Division or Steel Challenge you don't need an 8 shot. 357 magnums/38 specials are the most economical and versatile in a Revovler. But in 8 shot, just cause and both of these can use moon clips (but it's not required), 627 Pro is a 4" w/the swapable FS and are around mid $800's. The 627 PC is a 5" w/swapable FS and goes around $1050. You can probably find deals though. Now if you go with a 6 shot in the same calibers a 6 shot is great, and there are competition divisions for them in IDPA or ICORE, go with an L Frame i.e. 686 or look for used even you can find deals on a plethora of S&W's for decent prices. In 6 shot you can't go wrong with a Ruger 6 shot too and usually a bit cheaper than S&W's and Rugers are built like tanks. If you buy used look for the following: 1) Rust/dents/dings/obvious damage. 2) Check the bore for bad rust or pitting. 3) Slowly cycle the DA trigger and at the end of the stroke for each chamber you should hear/feel a slight click as the bolt locks into the cylinder notch. If the hammer falls and you don't hear a click see if you can rotate the cylinder opposite of it's normal rotation. If it will rotate backwards then it has slow timing and pass. It can be fixed but takes a little knowledge and skill.
  6. I like it, why you're even covered in case the 8 shot suddenly bulks up to .45 or the .45 wants to bellow fire with a magnum! Seriously does the front moon clip holder also work with you're 8 rd moon clips, either short colt or specials? Do like the holster, though the CR Speed mount is a real pain for me to get on or off. I'd like the DAA mount better, hmmm maybe?
  7. -1 (not me) or is it +1 in stock? I very much doubt if the fit and finish are anything like the original. And not being in the beautiful Royal Blue, nah almost seems sacreligous in Stainless Steel. But that's just my opinion. But then I just can't convince myself, or afford either, to buy guns just 'cause they look good. All of mine are bought to use in competition, EDC or hunting. And they get used in that order so the numbers bought are also in that order.
  8. Since you used both, is the lower window a major benefit vs the weight/bulk or just a minor one? Were you right on the right side vs left side?
  9. No hate, enjoyed it. Hope the Dot flickering wasn't requiring a repair trip. Looks like a Venom? What Comp? Is it just clocked for recoil, it looked like it had a ridge/sharp edge towards the top. If it is clocked does it seem to help? What did you use for heat shielding on the hand guard?
  10. I've been using a Vortex Venom 6 mil Red Dot for 2 years, 1st year on a G34 for CO and the last year on a 627 with an Alchin Mount. A buddy has a Sidewinder Mount on his 929 and I looked at it and didn't see much difference on the height but it did add a lot of weight. I had a Delta Point Pro on a JP mount and didn't like the 7.5 mil triangle on a pistol, but love it on my VR80. So my recommendation is a Vortex Venom 6 mil on an Alchin Mount. Note especially when first starting out, leave the FS on and you can use it to help find the Dot on draws and WH/SH stages. I like a FS height that does not show in the glass with the Dot centered. But especially on SH/WH stages if the Dot isn't right there I can tip the FS into the window and then go straight down and the Dot jumps into view.
  11. I have a GP100, not the Redhawk though, and yes it is such that pushing ones thumb forward will trigger the latch. The latch actually has a pivot point at the front and a good sized bump for the latch, so pushing in or forward works. It is much easier than I thought it would be. The only problem is it's small and not extended. So my thumb won't reach without shifting my grip. There is an extended aftermarket unit made, just don't know by who.
  12. I have a GP100, not the Redhawk though, and yes it is such that pushing ones thumb forward will trigger the latch. The latch actually has a pivot point at the front and a good sized bump for the latch, so pushing in or forward works. It is much easier than I thought it would be. The only problem is it's small and not extended. So my thumb won't reach without shifting my grip. There is an extended aftermarket unit made, just don't know by who.
  13. That Colt Royal Blue was beyond compare wasn't it.
  14. I ended up just operating the handle so the alignment pins were engaged then loosened the bolt holding the Tool Head on, wiggling it to settle everything in and then tightened back down without over torquing. Hitch went away so it was just a set up thing. It may be once I start actually using it I may have to go deeper but not now.
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