Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pskys2

  • Rank
    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 06/24/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Lyndon, Ks
  • Interests
    Outside of Family, Home, Farm: IPSC and about anything that goes "Bang"!
  • Real Name
    Dave Williams

Recent Profile Visitors

2,401 profile views
  1. If a MW ICORE Regional is held somewhere close, MO, IA, KS. Free State USPSA Match July 24 near KC, KS, MCPSL. Area III Steel Challenge May 30 also near KC, KS, MCPSL. Not really planning much until after July 1st right now.
  2. Agreed 10mm vs 40 s&w oal isn't worth the effort. The tightness of the moon clip to the brass can make a much bigger difference.
  3. The wife is going to hate you! Still in stock too!
  4. And the single hardest thing for me to do!
  5. The Casey Lead Remover Cloth works very well on my SS Revolvers, cleans up that carbon from the cylinder pretty easily. It can damage bluing though and is not recommended for blued guns.
  6. Might be if you had 45 acp brass, LPP's and a 40 Revolver you could get an extra 40 Cylinder and ream it out to 400 corbon? I had built a 1911 in .400 corbon after the turn of the century. They are usually SPP's and I have a lot of brass, but you can form 45 acp brass and I have quite a lot of Nickel Brass that I formed into 400, so I could easily ID them from the normal 400 brass. Did it because I had an excess of 45 brass and 40 caliber bullets and LPP's. Also have a 625 that when I get bullets for can load them for Revo. Already have several k's that can be used. Saving my
  7. Why I never sold my 625! I can at least practice with it or shoot major in USPSA or L6 in ICORE. Like to keep my options open!
  8. Good point, just remember to also run a few drills with the focus on speed of reload, but ending with an A hit. It is so easy to get wrapped up in the speed part and get sloppy with the shooting. Kind of like doing draw and fires at 25 yards with A hits after practicing close up draws.
  9. Lewis Lead Remover https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/lead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx is what I use. It has a tapered plug that a brass screen type patch is over it. You assemble it with the rod in the barrel, pull it tight and rotate. If you have lead built up it will remove it. I've even used the plug with a patch soaked in JB Bore Compounds and smoothed out some rough spots in a forcing cone. Casey also make a Lead Remover Cloth that works pretty good https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022286936?pid=236405.
  10. Really doubt that the spring is bad might be more likely that the pin on the hand is bad. There are 2, one for pivot and one for the spring to rest against.
  11. Yes the hand spring is a bit of a pain to install and it goes in that channel in the top of the trigger. Kind of a balancing act of holding the spring and putting in the hand. The smaller post on the hand is what one leg of the spring presses against. Note you can use the base of the mainspring to push on the hand spring, then finish pushing the hand in. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/smith-wesson/revolvers-sw/625-2
  12. Had Jimmy Clark do an action job on my M29, decade ago, and it came back without the Flag. I didn't realize that was normal process for a competition action job. Called him and he explained, but also noted it should've been sent back to me. Which he did. Since I don't ride horses anymore, the stirrup dropping on a hammer was a big reason for carrying 5 in Peacemakers, I really doubt I'd ever have an issue. BUT on my EDC's I keep them in. I'd like to think it "could" make a difference in a competition gun as I'm yanking the trigger just sooooo faaaaaast. But alas I'm not Jerry and
  13. I don't get excited by IDPA, more of a rules issue but they have gotten better, but it does give me a chance to be competitive with my EDC guns & gear. Something that's just not possible with USPSA or ICORE even. The biggest positive to me is its scoring system which puts a premium on accuracy. Forces one to account for every shot, much more realistic to life as each errant shot holds a potential civil suit. So it's an opportunity to push as hard as I can accurately. And I don't approach it with any different mindset than at a USPSA match, except focusing on all A's (Zero downs in
  14. Na, it just means you haven't surrendered to the Dark Side, aka Open! Agree with Toolguy. Take your grips off, back off the strain screw and remove the mainspring. Then cycle, all will probably work. Then take off the side plate. If it's a broken stud you will see it, remember to use the handle of the hammer, or screw driver, to whack the grip frame to pop the side plate loose. If you do have a stud broken, might want to try somewhere other than S&W, unless it's still under warranty. There are several Revolver Smith's who will do it a lot cheaper & f
  15. Bet it's not the factory Comp is it.
  • Create New...