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Dr. Phil

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Everything posted by Dr. Phil

  1. Never forget. "These acts shatter steel but they cannot dent the steel of American resolve" G.W.B.
  2. No, no, no, and no. In that order. Maybe because of an aversion to practice? Could that be it? Please excuse the curiosity. No disrespect intended.
  3. My gun prefers .358 bullets. It shoots them all fine and dandy. .01 doesn't sound like much. That's why people are generally too unaware or (to be frank, lazy) to go and get it. But when you consider 39 draws in an SC match, 3.9 seconds is a bunch. Add to that that if the 1st shot is faster and more accurate it stands to reason that the run will be smoother. And smooth is fast. Training to "be fast" isn't really productive. Like shooting a ton of ammo without fixing your mistakes. The improvement comes (in my personal experience) from finding the little things and fixing them. That's why a lot of the "experts" shoot 50K or 60K a year. Or maybe it's the free ammo? None of it is wasted if you are improving, learning or doing. Or, you can go on the internet and ask for a load, for a secret to quick improvement or what piece of gear will knock off 10 seconds per run? I would rather do it through hard work and study and testing all of the variables I can identify. YMMV
  4. I shoot 105 Bayou and 96 gr powder coated in my 929 for SC. I run them about 85 - 85 PF. Almost no muzzle lift. Very nice load. Except (if you use sound as a it indicator as opposed to calling your shots) they take a bit longer to hit at 35 yards. Funny effect! For USPSA I shoot a 125 gr RN at 135 PF. For falling plates etc. I use 147 or 150 gr powder coated at around 140 PF. They all work. Like mentioned above it's preference.
  5. Could we get a division for my .25 Ravens? A Production Raven division (PRD) and an optic division for my .25 Raven with a Cmore (PORD)? I want to shoot all my guns!!
  6. That is some funny stuff! But man were you ever fast!
  7. Exactly!! And, hey, could we shoot USPSA with airsoft? Of course it won't break the cardboard... Oh it might not knock the steel down either. But man would it be fun!
  8. Why not add rimfire rifles too while you are at it? You could call it "ICC" (inferior caliber carbine) Or something
  9. I used several conventional bases on different competition guns over the years. Used Weaver, Burris (I think) and the old B Square mounts. They all put the dot pretty high up. When I was shown the pro's gun, the Allchin sat low! He said it would actually shave time off my draw. Interesting that it really did take a tenth of a second off my draw. A bit more on stages like Roundabout and Smoke & Hope. Switched a couple other guns to the same setup right away. His draw was still faster though LOL
  10. The Allchin is the way to go. Sits the lowest, very sturdy. I have been changing my revos over from the old style "scope mount" rails to the Allchins. PS That advice was originally from a former S&W revo pro.
  11. Quite a thump on the palm with full house loads. All in all though it is a neat format to shoot. Now, would I like it in a self defense situation? Ahh yeah. And no! I have often wondered about the S&W Carry comp. Probably much the same. On both ends!
  12. Interesting (to me anyway) tidbit: In the mid-80s (86 or 87) Jack Wiegand had an article in Handguns mag (I think) about his ported gun. It was a then new Ruger SP 01 or SP101 (I forget which) that had 5 ports down the 2" or 2 1/2" barrel. He brought it to a match and a bunch of us shot it. Full house Remington 125gr HP (the go-to defense ammo at that time). What a neat gun! Almost no muzzle rise! In fact I think that gun dipped slightly. The weird thing was that all the recoil came back into the web of your hand. It was very accurate. We were hitting an 8" or 10" plate at 50 yards a lot. Nice gun. I believe that he called it a "Hybrid" or something like that. The ports work. The more power the better.
  13. RFPO I run a CMORE 6 MOA. My revolvers are all set up with Sig Romeo 3 with a 3 MOA Open auto is CMORE 8 MOA I think it's more a function of what your eyes pick up best.
  14. I had some experimentation with mine too. Mostly to find what it liked. (Federal primers, .358 bullets, etc) When I did the right tests though it "fell into place" and I had tons of ammo through it and about 3 years later I am very glad I bought it. Great gun, great for competition. Keep on keeping on. And, if it doesn't sort out, there is always that hundred buck waiting for you!
  15. I will go out on a limb here: I would be willing to give you $100.00 for that 929. Yes you read that right, $100.00! You could put that money toward a Ruger and live happily ever-after!!! Totally kidding! Once you get that gun sorted out you will be living large and putting on a show!
  16. I guess it probably should be nicer for the additional $500 - $600 cost? My S&W guns get shot a lot and usually the triggers get smoother with age. My opinion is that they are better looking and handling than the Rugers I have owned and shot. I think at this time there are 1 or 2 guys winning with Ruger revos? Might be short on that but close. I don't blame anybody for using Rugers but again IMHO they are not up to competitive standards yet. Maybe after somebody wins, say, 20 or so IRC championships? FWIW my 929 fired - actual rounds - in the 1st calendar year, 25,000. 2nd year, 22,000. 3rd 11,000. All pre- arthritis hiatus. Plus dry fire. (BTW the 929 is also not recommended for dry fire, and, will also break firing pins. Also, I use a partially filled laundry basket for moon clip drops.) The cost runs a couple hundred per year or so for some trigger touch up. I am always glad to see other revo shooters. At my club where I run (ran) the SC we stated getting some more revos at matches. They said I "got their juices flowing to break out the revolver!" Nice.
  17. I'm right there with you! At very least it is a great argument for a little leeway in the whole "S&W Performance Center is just a starting platform for a race gun!" thing. I guess nobody has the "factory race revolver" market cornered yet. Well, with the exception of Korth and Rhino
  18. I have had that exact lockup problem! My cylinders won't close when the firing pin breaks. I have to push the broken tip in for the cylinder to clear. I carry FPs and some tools. I bring a spare gun to the bigger matches.
  19. I am very fortunate! I have to walk 30 yards from my cellar door. I have a great situation and an even greater wife!!
  20. You might try gun parts corp. They usually have the original parts. Don't see the 327 listed. It's the same N frame as the 27 I think. Might be wrong but check it out to be sure.
  21. You might look at somebody (who is on this forum) that is very good, very reasonable and stands by his work. (I realize all of the above mentioned all do too. No disrespect to them) BossHoss has done several triggers and rebuild for me. He is good! Great triggers and great communication. Hope you are still active BossHoss!!
  22. I started out shooting local matches in the mid 80s with stock L and N frames. Steel and lots of bowling pins. Didn't know much back then about primers and neck tension and all that. Loaded whatever I had and shot a lot of cast bullets and such. Never even lightened the strain screw, just shot them. Back then Ruger had the Security Six. Nice gun, decent trigger. Several guys showed up at locals with Pythons. Smiths ruled the roost then . Now though I probably wouldn't take a stock gun to compete seriously. I guess I too am spoiled by 6 1/2 lb trigger pulls and quick returns. Red dots and speed holsters. Like an old friend used to say, "Live and learn. Die and forget it all!"
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