AzShooter Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I've heard of people reseating their primers after loading so that they will be more sensitive to light trigger pulls. Is this done on your press or do you use a hand primer like the LEE? Does it really help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Negative, unless you mean seating them on a press a little shallow then using a hand primer to fully seat them to the proper depth. Too deep can be a bad thing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Some people seat, spin the brass in the press and seat again. Some people load in the press then reseat with a hand primer. Some people load the ammo in the press without a primer, then hand prime. Some people deprime, hand prime, then load the ammo through the press. Some people load regular and turn up their guns. And some people just buy 1050s with bullet feeders and get back all that time they used to spend loading to do normal things like practice and hang out with the fam or work OT. ....Guess which one I am Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 [quote name="MWP" Some people load the ammo in the press without a primer, then hand prime. Just curious, how would you do this without the powder coming out the flash hole. I would like to see this done. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsteimel Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I had a problem with my press once , and made a couple thousand rounds where the primers were not fully seated… and caused light strikes. So I very carefully ran each bullet through and seated the primer more fully on my 650. I definitely do caution against this unless you are going to be extremely careful when reseating that primer! Because I have a buddy who took a picture of his arm when a round went off in his press and blew a big chunk of brass into his forearm… Not a fun way to spend the evening in the emergency room getting that cut out. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtysanchez Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Always for match ammo. Don't bother for practice stuff. After loading, with a LEE hand tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ignatz Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 For my 625, I size and de-prime cases in large amounts on my RockChucker........then prime them in a Lee hand loader.......then load them in my Dillon 550 skipping the first position. My 627 and 929 never needed that extra step. The 45 was a little more sensitive to a light hit. I shot the 625 last year.....but will start shooting the 929 this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 [quote name="MWP" Some people load the ammo in the press without a primer, then hand prime. Just curious, how would you do this without the powder coming out the flash hole. I would like to see this done. ? Can't say I've ever tried that one, just heard it from a member here, maybe he'll comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I see the safety concern... but what is the benefit. If you seat the primer properly/ at the correct depth the first time, why should you ever have to go back and re-seat it. I really doubt the process of seating a bullet is going to push the primer back out. I have never experienced anything like that in many thousands of rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi-Power Jack Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Some people seat, spin the brass in the press and seat again. +1 I seat with a SDB and get a bunch of high primers, so I can feel when it's necessary to "seat again" after I spin the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzShooter Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 why should you ever have to go back and re-seat it. For some of the ultra light trigger pulls on these revolvers, to help ignition some people either seat the primers hard in the press, spin the case and seat again or use a hand held primer devise to get them further in to help ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Hmm, I load for the light DA on my Stock II, and while I am quite firm about seating the primers in my Dillon 650 they are always slightly below flush. Unless something of course feels funny, then I will occasionally double check, and rotate the case and give it another push. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRB Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 (edited) Good afternoon Guys. This is most interesting. I had to add my 2 cents. 1 - at all times please / please have your safety glasses on or a face shield, when the primmer goes off unintended it loves to puke out all sorts of sharp things, very small. 2 - I have loaded well over 1,000.000 rounds of shot gun and pistol, never had this issue, once the press is set up correctly, but no matter what if the issue is there I can offer a few things. insure the brass is in as good a shape as it can be, insure the primmer pocket is the correct type for the primmer, for sure if this is something that seems to cause problems, clean the primmer pocket, it would kill me to have to do the by hand, but I do know of many tumbler types that use water and pins, the brass comes out better than knew. 3 - reloading on 3 different types of machines in the past, make sure after each session, and before you start the next session check the loading machine, no matter who's unit you use, things love to come lose. 4 - once again PLEASE insure safety first, and have fun loading. J. Russell Bryan O ya, the only brass I ever have problems with is IVI, it needs to be swaged first, but even then it does get past me sometimes, but never an issue. Edited January 22, 2016 by JRB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pskys2 Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Yes use a Lee or RCBS or similar hand primer. Some do it for Match Loads because of an issue that has developed during reloading or just to be extra cautious. I've done it with really old brass that had a lot of carbon in the primer hole (we're talking well over 40 reloadings with the cases) and I was just too lazy to clean the primer pockets. Some powder load combos are worse than others. But a good progressive press using good brass done properly, where you can feel the rim of the primer pocket as you pass your thumb over the case head, if you don't feel a slight depression or if you feel the primer then the primer is too high. It doesn't require a huge depression though. If you are running the ragged edge of primer/action reliability you "might" see an occasional advantage. But it is of limited help. If you have light strikes it is always better to up the mainspring weight a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWP Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 It looks like some things are unclear in this thread. It's not about double seating, or even seating deep, it's about fully seating and leaving a "print" in the primer. This way, all the firing pin has to is set it off, not seat it and then set it off like it does with most autos. Typically we talk about seating to .010" or maybe even more, but this just depends on the pocket depth. I'm fairly certain there are threads on here that show pictures of what the anvil print in the properly seated primer looks like. It's very obvious on a federal primer that it's been crushed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 I load on a 1050 for most my stuff, I seat my primers anywhere between .008 and .010 below flush and they set off 100%. Though, ammo I load on my 650, such as .45 acp, and some 38 special loads for classic division, I'd much rather run my triggers at an extra half pound of main spring then go through all the trouble of hand seating. It's just not worth the time to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Word. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFemery Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 I had a lot of problems with SW 625....main spring was sliding out of slot and rubbing on grip... and reloading on Dillon SDB. the bolt that holds the feed plate down must "HOLD IT DOWN" all the way.. and I check mine after each 50 rounds... double seating seems to work well, seat it, turn it, seat it again firmly! I have to double seat anything going into Winchester brass. my 625 lights Rem Primers double seated into Winn Brass. I only use this for practice, get about one clicker every 500 rounds or so... Fed primers work in other brass if FIRMLY seated one time...and I try to check each load... Reuel Emery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckaroo45 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Cured my Apex triggered 625 of light strikes by water tumbling brass and seating primers using a Forster Co-Ax primer seater. 100% bangs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsg Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I resize on a rock chucker after they are cleaned then firmly seat primers with a RCBS hand priming tool. I then store the cases for future loading. When I load them later on the Hornady, position one is empty. I do this for all pistol cases. I find the Hornady just seats to flush instead of slightly beyond flush. When I called them about it, I was told it is supposed to seat primers flush??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelie Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Primers should be seated until they fully bottom out in the pocket. You cannot measure that from outside. Deforming the cup is over doing it. Just bottom them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 How do you guys not get crippling arthritis? I load at least 400 rounds a sitting and shoot on a regular basis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatJones Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Primers should be seated until they fully bottom out in the pocket. You cannot measure that from outside. Deforming the cup is over doing it. Just bottom them out.+1While not common, it is possible to crush the primer pellet by deforming the primer. The primer is at its most sensitive when the cup just bottoms in the pocket. That's why the anvil is proud of the cup in an unused primer, the correct amount of preloaded pressure is built into the primer. How do you guys not get crippling arthritis? I load at least 400 rounds a sitting and shoot on a regular basis. I just picked up an aluminum roller handle for the 550, my palm was getting sore seating primers with the ball handle.I used the old hand primer on Christmas day. I hand-seated about 550 primers and the tendons in my forearm were not happy with me. That's the end of high volume stuff they the hand primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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