bradsteimel

How 'bout try a bill drill with the targets only 3 yards away and your dot turned OFF!! Can you force yourself to hose the stage (not worrying about accuracy)? If so, you might be focusing too much on the dot settling and that's what's causing slower splits.

Set up a "hoser stage", say 5 targets down the left side of a 25 yard long bay - 1 every 4 yards or so. Make them easy, say 3 yards away... and practice running down the stage, shooting each one twice, but never stopping. That should help you get more comfortable shooting easy targets on the move AND more comfortable moving with your pistol.

Yes. I have 3 mags that don’t function perfectly so I keep them loaded with dummy rounds for dry fire.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And/or his podcast! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CMore looks a little "old school" but are very reliable and rugged, and they have a larger glass area than the RTS2, but they do have a larger dot-to-bore-axis distance, so for some, that's their arguement - if you zero your dot at 20 yards, you won't have as much of a hold-over at a 7 yard head shot with the RTS2.

Good news... the ONE thing you need to practice for Steel is your draw from surrender. Shave that by .1 and you’re 4 seconds faster for the match. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Switching back and forth from open... I’m quite fond of red fronts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New shooter... needs to make sure he gets an acceptable sight picture for BOTH shots. It's not a double tap. Might suggest moving the target far enough away that he doesn't even consider double tapping, and MUST aim the gun twice.

+1 if you wanna have fun, shoot whatever gun/division you're in the mood for that week. If you want to really improve, stick with the same gun/division.

Much easier for an open shooter with a right-side slide racker

Can't imagine, if you have good trigger technique, that there'd be a difference between POI with freestyle v. resting the barrel on a bag?!? Resting on the bag should give a slightly more consistent POI by reducing one's slight muzzle movement during freestyle.

As soon as the last successful shot breaks on the left target, your eyes and head need to SNAP to the next target. Bring the gun in a little from the extended arms length to allow for more aggressive turn, and then drive the gun aggressively toward the next target. For me, on the first/left target, your weight needs to be on your left foot with the right foot slightly rearward and with the toe slightly pointed to the next target. After breaking the last shot on the first target, and during the transition to the right target, you weight shifts automagically to the right foot which is now pointing to that new target. Hope this helps.

I had nothing but trouble with my MBX mags. They even told me to make my rounds shorter?!? I sold them and now use STI and SVI mags. Much happier now! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This just happened at my club yesterday while i was RO'ing a competitor who routinely starts prematurely. He's selective about when he jumps, but always during a classifier. On this occasion, it caught me off-guard and i let it slide, thus giving him a big advantage on a difficult PAR time stage. On the second string of that same classifier, he jumped again, and i stopped him... and gave him a warning. I differentiate creeping vs. false start as... when a competitor false-starts accidentally and stops himself, i consider that a false start and will give them another go. But if he doesn't stop himself, i feel it was intentional and they should be stopped/procedural'ed.

Update on my search for STI Standard Frame Kit for a Nowlin/Wilson ramped barrell: Saw that Brownell's had it listed as "available for backorder". I ordered it on 5/24 and got an email a day or two later saying they placed the order with STI. On 6/24 Brownell's shipped it to my ffl... and i picked it up today 6/30. Brownell's now shows that item as "in stock". I'll have to say it was a pleasant surprise! This order from Brownell's and STI went as smoothly as i could have hoped! Big shout-out to Brownell's and STI.

I too am having problems with the brass getting crushed in station 2 (decapping station) because the brass isn't inserted into the shell plate correctly... and when the Mark 7 lowers the toolhead to deprime the cartridge, the cartridge is at a 30 degree angle and gets crushed along with bending the decapping pin to a 90 degree In an attempt to fix the problem, i purchased the FFB shellplate (http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/category.aspx/shell-plates/17/). Super impressed with the quality of this shellplate! Now, i'm going to try the tips from DougC's posts above.

Awright, my bad... fixture was a little harsh I guess my point was, the RO straddles a fine line between maintaining control of the stage versus taking control of a stage and kind of getting in the way. The same for any professional referee who needs to balance keeping the game under control and letting the competitors compete. I will say most RO's i've had at larger matches do a very good job.

Frustration gets the better of all of us. The RO's job is to ensure everyone's safety AND be a "fixture". The last thing a match needs is for an RO (and his ego) to get in the way and cause distractions for the competitors.

Probably not a popular vote, but 6.6gr of CFE under a MG 124JHP is a pleasure to load - that powder is super fine, so you get zero splash. AND, It's also not bad to shoot either.

From what i've been hearing N350 is one of the most temperature-consistent powders out there.

It may not be a hobby, but it's WAY more expensive than shooting... How 'bout trading in a wife??? Can I get an AMEN!

Gosh, i'm sitting here watching Seth Curry warm up for the last 2 hrs prior to the big NBA Finals Game 1... thinking... dang, it sure would be nice if we USPSA shooters could shoot 500-800 rounds before the first Stage of a major match. I'm pretty sure most of my jitters would be gone!

One way to cut your "first stage jitters" in half is to shoot big matches all in one day instead of shooting it over two days. Only one "first stage" that way

I personally don't find wearing a watch distracting while competing, even larger watches like the ShotMaxx. I had a ShotMaxx and used it for a short time when i was messing around with airsoft as a training aid for real ammo... but got out of airsoft AND got rid of the ShotMaxx. My ShotMaxx worked fine, but i found it too cumbersome compared to nearly every other shot timer. IMO the biggest problem with the ShotMaxx is when you're trying to use it with a partner and want to hand them the timer to run you - sux to have to take it off and pass your watch/timer around. Unless you just want it for airsoft, i'd just go with the ced7000.

Awesome! I didn't know it was different to click the asterisk! Thanks.