Petrov

I am just an inept goober who caused more problems trying to fix another problem when I was messing with my revolver but... In my case that gritty return was based on hand/ratchet interaction. Dry firing a bunch did help.

Maybe it is just me but I noticed that its not the weight of the revolver but weight up front that makes the difference. Shooting my 686PC back to back with my N frame PPC target gun really highlights the difference.

Try new shell plate, also check your adjustments and make sure when your shell plate advances it does it somewhat smoothly instead of that jerky snap motion.

Loaded up some more ammo. I am so happy. Before I was able to wiggle the link arms so much that it would even make a clank noise with new bearings installed. Back to being practically brand new. I am going to buy a 750 with case feeder next.

So I managed to get a really old Square deal (pre-B). Ironically this is my second used one that was used by .41 special shooters. It was really well used. I used it to load up thousands upon thousands of 9mm cartridges. It was pretty darn worn, I could wiggle the link arms and they would visibly move and make noises and I think the main pin for the handle was pretty fried too. After less than a week at dillon I got my press back and it's tight! No more slop and wiggle and now I can adjust my index pawl (that wasn't a thing in pre B). I love dillon.

This is my performance contra axial torodial counter kinetic inline lateral performance spring. That will be 50 dollars.

Guess who mistook a slightly tapered mechanical pencil spring for a firing pin spring? Its me I drank the dumb bit-h juice, the whole gallon jug. Back to consistent ignition at 7.5 pound DA pull.

Ah, I am a potato. Back to the drawing board.

Well the issue is back. I have noticed something though. When it fails to fire it leaves a tiny little weak dimple. I can fail to ignite it 5 times I'm a row and it's all small weak dimple. Finally when it does go off it has a good strong firing pin impact that leaves a good dent in the primer.

Going to replace hammer, slide and the firing pin. All those parts I took a file/stone to without a care or clue at one point or another. Will help me to rule some things out. Getting all of the parts from TK.

Oh just in case I measured my apex firing pin, 0.480.

No endshake I took care of that. I do have headspace that is just outside of the specs. I think just a hair over 0.064? I dont have the numbers with me.

So I have been having trouble with really weak hits on my primers, barley a dimple in my 627. I have been treating my moonclips like magazines, just dump them in an ammo box or the range bag, pile them on top of each other fully loaded etc. Put empty brass in a moon clip in do some dry fire and observe. The brass kinda sticks out a bit from the cylinder so when the firing pin hits it whacks the primer and the brass starts to travel forward and the moon clip almost acts like a spring to absorb the kinetic energy. About half of my moon clips are a bit wonky. They dont have obvious issues but they are bent enough for one round not to ignite out of the 8.

Quick question. My hammer has this sight protrusion below the striking surface and this protrusion is hitting the the frame, is that by design? I have some deformed metal below the firing pin area where it keep hitting. Its not hitting the sides of the frame but below the firing pin.

I have about 35,000 live rounds and about 300,000 dry fires through my Apex hammer. The only issue I had was the sear pin walking out and binding the action up. Sometimes s#!t happens. People who install things like Apex hammers into their revolvers tend to be people who shoot their guns a LOT. First time I seen this happen to an Apex hammer and I had mine since they came out.