midvalleyshooter Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Just found this, be nice to have a slo mo close up of the disconnector: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13HJIDh3wvQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midvalleyshooter Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?What is your budget? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glocklife34 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01? Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?What is your budget? I would to know the list things needed as well. Budget for me is not a problem to complete the project. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brisix Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Call David at CGW and get everything in the Pro-Package. If you are needing it to be Production legal let David know and he will substitute the the hammer for the comp hammer which is production legal and remove the reach reduction kit. Also add the stainless steel guide rod and his EZ/D - 9/40 sight set. You will be all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11287 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01? Below is what I bought from David at CGW. I asked him to look over my list. He suggested the H-Pin (X2) for the disco and the hammer strut. I also added the 85c trigger to the list and an 11lb recoil spring. I used David's race hammer but that one is not USPSA legal. I should be able to get away with its at the level one matches. I polished up as Kneelingatlas shows on his link. I would estimate my DA pull to be right around 5# and SA at around 2#. I am extremely pleased with the results. Compared it last week with a friends Accu-Shadow from CZ Custom and there was not much difference in the feel of the trigger. Keep in mind that the SP-01 I did still has the FPB and lifter and it was still about like the Accu-Shadow trigger. Your Shopping Cart Description Item price Quantity Amount 1485/T2 $38.00 EZ/D-9/40 $87.00 RP-TRS $7.00 Trigger Pin Item # TR-PIN $13.00 75060 $22.00 SRS-2 $77.00 Race Hammer Kit $123.00 Edited July 24, 2015 by 11287 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 I will post up a mod list to keep you SSP and Production legal later tonight. I will edit this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off. So the trigger doesn't reset in SA mode when you rack the slide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midvalleyshooter Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?What is your budget? I went back and looked at what Prof. Atlas used at the beginning of this thread. CZC: Race hammer Shadow mag release 97b trigger Flat hammer spring plug CGW: Ext. firing pin Ext. FP spring FPB spring 11.5 hammer spring Trigger return spring Type 1 short reset disconnector (why type 1 and not type 2?) Is that about it? I would like some improved sights. How about the CGW floating trigger pin? How about small easy to lose parts? Should I get a spare hammer spring strut and pins to make disassembly easier in case I need to fit the disconnector? Thanks in advance, Keith Edited July 26, 2015 by midvalleyshooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 If I was working over an sp01 for uspsa production id get: 8 or 11.5 cgw hammer spring Cgw recoil spring kit Old style 85c trigger Cgw reduced power trigger return spring Cgw floating trigger pin Cgw extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring Cgw shrt reset disconector Cgw billet adjustable sear Cgw pins for the disco and hammer strut Cz shadow mainspring plug without lanyard loop CZ UB comp hammer Dawson front sight in width and height of your choice I like the shadow fixed rear sight or the CZ UB adjustable Grips either factory rubber or ssi scales (if you have small hands the thin czc checker grips are ok) Flat mag brake if the sp01 comes with a curved one. Some cgw grip screws Polish up the trigger bar, sides of hammer, etc as per kneelingatlas guide. Should give you a nice smooth crisp trigger with da around 5.5lb and a nice short, crisp SA around 2.2-2.5 lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off.So the trigger doesn't reset in SA mode when you rack the slide? Yes. If I cock the hammer with my thumb the trigger works. If I rack the slide to cock the hammer the trigger doesn't work and is just mushy. Almost as if it can't set right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsons1480 Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 If I was working over an sp01 for uspsa production id get: 8 or 11.5 cgw hammer spring Cgw recoil spring kit Old style 85c trigger Cgw reduced power trigger return spring Cgw floating trigger pin Cgw extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring Cgw shrt reset disconector Cgw billet adjustable sear Cgw pins for the disco and hammer strut Cz shadow mainspring plug without lanyard loop CZ UB comp hammer Dawson front sight in width and height of your choice I like the shadow fixed rear sight or the CZ UB adjustable Grips either factory rubber or ssi scales (if you have small hands the thin czc checker grips are ok) Flat mag brake if the sp01 comes with a curved one. Some cgw grip screws Polish up the trigger bar, sides of hammer, etc as per kneelingatlas guide. Should give you a nice smooth crisp trigger with da around 5.5lb and a nice short, crisp SA around 2.2-2.5 lb. Good list! I would subtract the "Cgw extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring" and the "8 or 11.5 cgw hammer spring" and buy the Short Reset System, SRS2. That includes the Firing pin, firing pin spring, and hammer spring. It also includes their modified lifter, lifter spring, and "dry fire safe" firing pin retaining pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off. Which disco are you using? Do you have a firing pin block? This is typically the place: Please describe the fitting process of the CGW Type 3The area behind the wedge must be filed down: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Yes it's a fpb cz and I'm using the CGW disco made for a fpb cz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgil275 Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) What atlas said. The clearance between the trigger bar and the wedge of the disco is too close to allow the trigger bar to fully reset on the sear leg. When the slide cycles the trigger bar is pushed down and Is pushed back up by the trigger bar spring. Since clearance is to tight the trigger bar is prevented from resetting. Edited July 25, 2015 by kgil275 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Ok I ground it down a little but still nothing. I'll have to try some more tomorrow. The weird thing is that if I pull the hammer back with my finger it fires. If I pull the hammer back with my finger then pull the slide back a little the trigger becomes dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Utah Shooter Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 I use masking tape to protect the polycoat then clamp the slide to a sturdy bench top or saw horse and pound out the roll pin which retains the firing pin. You will feel the firing pin pushing on the punch once the roll pin has cleared the channel. I try not to drive the roll pin clear out of the slide so it's easier to put back in. Once out I polish the channel with a rolled up piece of sand paper (1000 grit or finer) and I will spin the new firing pin in a drill or drill press, using sand paper to polish it as well. I place my sand paper on a folded towel to polish parts which are not flat nor round like the firing pin block. I also lightly polish the hole where the block goes. *When polishing metal parts smooth is the goal, if you remove too much metal you can ruin them so I don't suggest using and sand paper coarser than 500 grit* When the pistol cycles, the leading edge of the slide must fight both the hammer spring and the recoil spring at the same time; to round this edge is the reduce the initial force required at the beginning of the slide stroke, reducing muzzle flip. Other things can be done here that I didn't do: polish the breech face, chamfer the firing pin hole and soften the bottom edge of the breech face to reduce the slide dragging on the top round in the magazine on its way back. None of the work detailed in this thread is 'necessary' to the function of your CZ pistol, so you can certainly prioritize your time spent tinkering, or do these mods in steps if you prefer. Reinstall the firing pin, then the firing pin block and lastly the barrel/recoil system. How much would you say rounding the leading edge aids in less muzzle flip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 It's hard to quantify, I'd guess it has a smaller effect than light hammer and recoil springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglou13 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 (edited) Yeah what he said. ^^^^^^^If you google 1911 firing pin stop radius. You'll see a lot of opinions, techniques and some data regarding.I felt some difference with slide modification......I did feel more difference before and after with 125 grn bullets both factory and hand load.I'll add tuning a handload to recoil spring. Made huge difference. (In my case 147 grn bullet ). YmmvWhat I'm getting at...... Radiusing or changing angle helps. But the combination tuning hammer spring, recoil spring, bullet weight, powder, smoothing action etc etc. ........... It starts to turn into night and day!!It's gets to the point where you'll hear reloaders/ shooters extolling the value of + or - .2 grains in perceived recoil / muzzle flip. Edited July 28, 2015 by biglou13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 What are yall using to lube the interactive parts. I've been using slide glide but I think some kind of grease might work better. ( disco,trigger bar, hammer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plus45acp Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Just found this, be nice to have a slo mo close up of the disconnector: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13HJIDh3wvQ thy this link: around 5:30 there's a few examples of the disco in motion... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc3257 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I have been using Rand CLP on all my firearms for about a year or more. Nothing I've tried works any better. Clean, not greasy and make cleaning much easier. There are other similar products like Slip2000. I used to use Frog Lube but had too many issues with getting gummy when cold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertwyatt Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 What are yall using to lube the interactive parts. I've been using slide glide but I think some kind of grease might work better. ( disco,trigger bar, hammer) 5w30 and amsoil grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 What are yall using to lube the interactive parts. I've been using slide glide but I think some kind of grease might work better. ( disco,trigger bar, hammer) Slide glide is grease? I actually use oil (mpro7, or my now dwindling stock of kleenbore f3) for the sear, hammer, trigger return spring etc. I use slide glide (grease) on the rails, lockup surfaces (barrel lugs etc). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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