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I feel like my da gets tougher as well. I have to lube the disco and trigger bar every few days it seems in order to keep the trigger pull smooth. I do a lot of dry firing but I'm not sure why this happens..I ordered some dry lube tonight to see if that fixes it.

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It sounds like something is rubbing, I've had it happen; it just takes a little thinking to figure out where to file.

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I'm having an issue that's been infrequent enough that I've ignored it until now. I have a CZ 75 SP-01 with a HS-12000 hammer spring. I case gauge all of my ammo and check for high primers. When using Federal primers, I would have a 1 in 600 or so rounds fail to ignite. That's about once every other practice session. If I pulled the trigger again, they fired. This is an issue whether or not the gun has been recently cleaned, oiled, whatever.

I switched to CCI recently, and yesterday I had 3 primers fail to pop. They were all DA pulls when this happened. I stuck them in a magazine at the end of the session and was able to fire all 3 rounds in single action. I know the hammer has more travel and more force in SA, and that's why it worked then.

All that being said, I've polished the crap out of this pistol. I have the extended firing pin, reduced power firing pin spring, reduced power trigger return spring, etc. I have all the go fast parts. Should I just switch to the HS13 for my own sanity and assurance that all CCI and WIN primers will pop always? Or is there something I may have missed when polishing that I should try polishing again?

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All I use is CCI, loaded on a 650 and 1050, never failed to pop. I think I had a 13# spring in mine though.

Edited by ClayK

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Which reloading press do you use?

Dillon 550

I'm pretty sure you can adjust the height of the ram which seats the primer so you can really lean on it. I load on a 650 and I slightly flatten the primers in their pockets.

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Which reloading press do you use?

Dillon 550

I'm pretty sure you can adjust the height of the ram which seats the primer so you can really lean on it. I load on a 650 and I slightly flatten the primers in their pockets.

I'm mashing them in there. They're below flush. I ordered a 13 lb spring, we'll see what happens. Maybe I need to polish the strut more? I did some basic polishing, but maybe I need to make that thing shine.

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I'm having an issue that's been infrequent enough that I've ignored it until now. I have a CZ 75 SP-01 with a HS-12000 hammer spring. I case gauge all of my ammo and check for high primers. When using Federal primers, I would have a 1 in 600 or so rounds fail to ignite. That's about once every other practice session. If I pulled the trigger again, they fired. This is an issue whether or not the gun has been recently cleaned, oiled, whatever.

I switched to CCI recently, and yesterday I had 3 primers fail to pop. They were all DA pulls when this happened. I stuck them in a magazine at the end of the session and was able to fire all 3 rounds in single action. I know the hammer has more travel and more force in SA, and that's why it worked then.

All that being said, I've polished the crap out of this pistol. I have the extended firing pin, reduced power firing pin spring, reduced power trigger return spring, etc. I have all the go fast parts. Should I just switch to the HS13 for my own sanity and assurance that all CCI and WIN primers will pop always? Or is there something I may have missed when polishing that I should try polishing again?

Have you ever pencil tested your gun? I've noticed that the SP-01, even with an extended firing pin, will barely budge the pencil no matter if its a 8.5# or 13#. With both of my SP-01 shadows the pencil launches out of the gun with ease with the 8.5#.

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if SP01 with block, make sure your block is lifting all the way up. might need to lower shelf of the firing pin to make sure the block is clear the firing pin is getting a good strike.

also may want to lengthen the notch to allow the firing pin to move forward more and not stop on the retaining pin.

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Have you gotten the sides of the hammer and corresponding areas of the frame? With 2000 grit?

I got them with 1000. I suppose I can hit them with 2000 next time I clean it.

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I'm having an issue that's been infrequent enough that I've ignored it until now. I have a CZ 75 SP-01 with a HS-12000 hammer spring. I case gauge all of my ammo and check for high primers. When using Federal primers, I would have a 1 in 600 or so rounds fail to ignite. That's about once every other practice session. If I pulled the trigger again, they fired. This is an issue whether or not the gun has been recently cleaned, oiled, whatever.

I switched to CCI recently, and yesterday I had 3 primers fail to pop. They were all DA pulls when this happened. I stuck them in a magazine at the end of the session and was able to fire all 3 rounds in single action. I know the hammer has more travel and more force in SA, and that's why it worked then.

All that being said, I've polished the crap out of this pistol. I have the extended firing pin, reduced power firing pin spring, reduced power trigger return spring, etc. I have all the go fast parts. Should I just switch to the HS13 for my own sanity and assurance that all CCI and WIN primers will pop always? Or is there something I may have missed when polishing that I should try polishing again?

Have you ever pencil tested your gun? I've noticed that the SP-01, even with an extended firing pin, will barely budge the pencil no matter if its a 8.5# or 13#. With both of my SP-01 shadows the pencil launches out of the gun with ease with the 8.5#.

I'm getting ~3" of vertical movement on both DA and SA trigger pulls with the pencil test.

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if SP01 with block, make sure your block is lifting all the way up. might need to lower shelf of the firing pin to make sure the block is clear the firing pin is getting a good strike.

also may want to lengthen the notch to allow the firing pin to move forward more and not stop on the retaining pin.

How do I make sure my block is lifting all the way up? Could that be accomplished with a file and sandpaper? That sounds like some machining work I'm not equipped to do.

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Does anyone have a 9mm throat reamer they would be willing to rent out for a few days?

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Does anyone have a 9mm throat reamer they would be willing to rent out for a few days?

No, but you can send me your barrel and pay shipping both ways with some of the rounds you are using.

Edited by himurax13

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if SP01 with block, make sure your block is lifting all the way up. might need to lower shelf of the firing pin to make sure the block is clear the firing pin is getting a good strike.

also may want to lengthen the notch to allow the firing pin to move forward more and not stop on the retaining pin.

How do I make sure my block is lifting all the way up? Could that be accomplished with a file and sandpaper? That sounds like some machining work I'm not equipped to do.
Take slide off and push on the firing pin block.

Then pull the trigger on the frame and see if the lifter is moving up.

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if SP01 with block, make sure your block is lifting all the way up. might need to lower shelf of the firing pin to make sure the block is clear the firing pin is getting a good strike.

also may want to lengthen the notch to allow the firing pin to move forward more and not stop on the retaining pin.

How do I make sure my block is lifting all the way up? Could that be accomplished with a file and sandpaper? That sounds like some machining work I'm not equipped to do.
Take slide off and push on the firing pin block.

Then pull the trigger on the frame and see if the lifter is moving up.

I know the lifter is moving and the firing pin block is going up because the gun fires 99% of the time. It's got to be the hammer and frame parts contacting each other. As soon as I get to my next cleaning round count, I'll polish that up some more and see what I get then. I have a spring on order, but I want to try the polishing first.

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Good to be home, it was a long 4 week trip.

Mrs. LC's Duo Tone Shadow is cool (it came while I was away). She put the Scales grips on while I was gone, they feel great. I didn't think I'd like them, funny thing is she said she might like the stock rubber grips.

I had never felt an untuned Shadow trigger, "F" me it sux! The pull weight is so high I can't even tell if it's gritty. I have all the parts/springs to change out and polish up to get it where it needs to be.

CZC 85 trigger

CGW floating trigger pin and RP TRS

CGW hammer, adjustable sear and T-1 Disco

CGW 11.5 hammer spring

CGW extended firing pin and reduced power spring.

CZC SS guide rod and a CGW 10# recoil spring

Slim RS safety

Obviously polish under the slide, bevel the edges, polish the strut, feed ramp and trim/polish the slide stop.

Polish barrel hood

Smooth and polish the trigger bar.

Then mount Doctor Sight the red dot using a Springer Precision mount

Trigger pull weights

Started at DA 10# 4oz. SA 3# 14.2 oz.

Finished at DA 6# 5.0 oz. SA 2# 7.8 oz.

image.jpg1_10.jpg

Edited by zhunter

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I followed this thread and performed the polishing and CGW trigger spring kit upgrade on my SP-01. Thanks Atlas for the great pictures and post. It is AMAZING how it changed the trigger pull. The only guage I have is a booger hook, but I can really tell the different. I love shooting this gun.

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My SA trigger is really good. It still stacks a little at the end of DA though. Hammer strut is polished like glass and sides of hammer are polished. I can't seem to figure out where the friction is coming from.

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I believe it's a re-profiled and polished OEM disco.

Edited by d_striker

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Seems like the square edge just above the hammer hooks is roughly rubbing on whatever it engages to. Sear?

Idk. Maybe it's the disco. I'm still new to CZ's so it's tough to visualize the movement of the disco with the sear cage on top.

Edited by d_striker

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