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Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?

What is your budget?

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Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?

Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?

What is your budget?

I would to know the list things needed as well. Budget for me is not a problem to complete the project.

Thanks

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Call David at CGW and get everything in the Pro-Package. If you are needing it to be Production legal let David know and he will substitute the the hammer for the comp hammer which is production legal and remove the reach reduction kit. Also add the stainless steel guide rod and his EZ/D - 9/40 sight set. You will be all set.

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Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?

Below is what I bought from David at CGW. I asked him to look over my list. He suggested the H-Pin (X2) for the disco and the hammer strut. I also added the 85c trigger to the list and an 11lb recoil spring. I used David's race hammer but that one is not USPSA legal. I should be able to get away with its at the level one matches. I polished up as Kneelingatlas shows on his link. I would estimate my DA pull to be right around 5# and SA at around 2#. I am extremely pleased with the results. Compared it last week with a friends Accu-Shadow from CZ Custom and there was not much difference in the feel of the trigger. Keep in mind that the SP-01 I did still has the FPB and lifter and it was still about like the Accu-Shadow trigger.

Your Shopping Cart

Description Item price Quantity Amount

1485/T2

$38.00

EZ/D-9/40

$87.00

RP-TRS

$7.00

Trigger Pin

Item # TR-PIN

$13.00

75060

$22.00

SRS-2

$77.00

Race Hammer Kit

$123.00

IMG_0518_zpscjqfoa0o.jpg

Edited by 11287

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Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off.

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I will post up a mod list to keep you SSP and Production legal later tonight. I will edit this post.

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Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off.

So the trigger doesn't reset in SA mode when you rack the slide?

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Does anyone have a list of things to order to complete the makeover of a SP01?

What is your budget?

I went back and looked at what Prof. Atlas used at the beginning of this thread.

CZC:

Race hammer

Shadow mag release

97b trigger

Flat hammer spring plug

CGW:

Ext. firing pin

Ext. FP spring

FPB spring

11.5 hammer spring

Trigger return spring

Type 1 short reset disconnector (why type 1 and not type 2?)

Is that about it? I would like some improved sights. How about the CGW floating trigger pin? How about small easy to lose parts? Should I get a spare hammer spring strut and pins to make disassembly easier in case I need to fit the disconnector?

Thanks in advance,

Keith

Edited by midvalleyshooter

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If I was working over an sp01 for uspsa production id get:

8 or 11.5 cgw hammer spring

Cgw recoil spring kit

Old style 85c trigger

Cgw reduced power trigger return spring

Cgw floating trigger pin

Cgw extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring

Cgw shrt reset disconector

Cgw billet adjustable sear

Cgw pins for the disco and hammer strut

Cz shadow mainspring plug without lanyard loop

CZ UB comp hammer

Dawson front sight in width and height of your choice

I like the shadow fixed rear sight or the CZ UB adjustable

Grips either factory rubber or ssi scales (if you have small hands the thin czc checker grips are ok)

Flat mag brake if the sp01 comes with a curved one.

Some cgw grip screws

Polish up the trigger bar, sides of hammer, etc as per kneelingatlas guide.

Should give you a nice smooth crisp trigger with da around 5.5lb and a nice short, crisp SA around 2.2-2.5 lb.

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Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off.

So the trigger doesn't reset in SA mode when you rack the slide?

Yes. If I cock the hammer with my thumb the trigger works. If I rack the slide to cock the hammer the trigger doesn't work and is just mushy. Almost as if it can't set right.

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If I was working over an sp01 for uspsa production id get:

8 or 11.5 cgw hammer spring

Cgw recoil spring kit

Old style 85c trigger

Cgw reduced power trigger return spring

Cgw floating trigger pin

Cgw extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring

Cgw shrt reset disconector

Cgw billet adjustable sear

Cgw pins for the disco and hammer strut

Cz shadow mainspring plug without lanyard loop

CZ UB comp hammer

Dawson front sight in width and height of your choice

I like the shadow fixed rear sight or the CZ UB adjustable

Grips either factory rubber or ssi scales (if you have small hands the thin czc checker grips are ok)

Flat mag brake if the sp01 comes with a curved one.

Some cgw grip screws

Polish up the trigger bar, sides of hammer, etc as per kneelingatlas guide.

Should give you a nice smooth crisp trigger with da around 5.5lb and a nice short, crisp SA around 2.2-2.5 lb.

Good list! I would subtract the "Cgw extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring" and the "8 or 11.5 cgw hammer spring" and buy the Short Reset System, SRS2. That includes the Firing pin, firing pin spring, and hammer spring. It also includes their modified lifter, lifter spring, and "dry fire safe" firing pin retaining pin.

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Ok so i just did a trigger job on a SP-01 and the only issue I'm having is whenever i rack the slide the trigger becomes dead and the hammer doesn't fall. If i decock and use my thumb to put the gun in SA mode the trigger works. I know this has something to do with the disco but im not sure what part to grind off.

Which disco are you using? Do you have a firing pin block? This is typically the place:

Please describe the fitting process of the CGW Type 3

The area behind the wedge must be filed down:

IMG_20140123_233242_863_zps3acfbf61.jpg

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Yes it's a fpb cz and I'm using the CGW disco made for a fpb cz.

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What atlas said. The clearance between the trigger bar and the wedge of the disco is too close to allow the trigger bar to fully reset on the sear leg. When the slide cycles the trigger bar is pushed down and Is pushed back up by the trigger bar spring. Since clearance is to tight the trigger bar is prevented from resetting.

Edited by kgil275

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Ok I ground it down a little but still nothing. I'll have to try some more tomorrow. The weird thing is that if I pull the hammer back with my finger it fires. If I pull the hammer back with my finger then pull the slide back a little the trigger becomes dead.

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I use masking tape to protect the polycoat then clamp the slide to a sturdy bench top or saw horse and pound out the roll pin which retains the firing pin.

IMG_20140218_210908_799-1_zpsfc838d94.jp

You will feel the firing pin pushing on the punch once the roll pin has cleared the channel. I try not to drive the roll pin clear out of the slide so it's easier to put back in. Once out I polish the channel with a rolled up piece of sand paper (1000 grit or finer) and I will spin the new firing pin in a drill or drill press, using sand paper to polish it as well.

I place my sand paper on a folded towel to polish parts which are not flat nor round like the firing pin block.

9_zps59c90a40.jpg

I also lightly polish the hole where the block goes.

*When polishing metal parts smooth is the goal, if you remove too much metal you can ruin them so I don't suggest using and sand paper coarser than 500 grit*

When the pistol cycles, the leading edge of the slide must fight both the hammer spring and the recoil spring at the same time; to round this edge is the reduce the initial force required at the beginning of the slide stroke, reducing muzzle flip.

10_zpsf21469ba.jpg

11_zpscde8fcb0.jpg

12_zpsb1888566.jpg

Other things can be done here that I didn't do: polish the breech face, chamfer the firing pin hole and soften the bottom edge of the breech face to reduce the slide dragging on the top round in the magazine on its way back. None of the work detailed in this thread is 'necessary' to the function of your CZ pistol, so you can certainly prioritize your time spent tinkering, or do these mods in steps if you prefer.

IMG_20140218_210953_402-1_zps05b6f86b.jp

Reinstall the firing pin, then the firing pin block and lastly the barrel/recoil system.

How much would you say rounding the leading edge aids in less muzzle flip?

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Yeah what he said. ^^^^^^^

If you google 1911 firing pin stop radius. You'll see a lot of opinions, techniques and some data regarding.

I felt some difference with slide modification......

I did feel more difference before and after with 125 grn bullets both factory and hand load.

I'll add tuning a handload to recoil spring. Made huge difference. (In my case 147 grn bullet ). Ymmv

What I'm getting at...... Radiusing or changing angle helps. But the combination tuning hammer spring, recoil spring, bullet weight, powder, smoothing action etc etc. ........... It starts to turn into night and day!!

It's gets to the point where you'll hear reloaders/ shooters extolling the value of + or - .2 grains in perceived recoil / muzzle flip.

Edited by biglou13

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What are yall using to lube the interactive parts. I've been using slide glide but I think some kind of grease might work better. ( disco,trigger bar, hammer)

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I have been using Rand CLP on all my firearms for about a year or more. Nothing I've tried works any better. Clean, not greasy and make cleaning much easier. There are other similar products like Slip2000. I used to use Frog Lube but had too many issues with getting gummy when cold.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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What are yall using to lube the interactive parts. I've been using slide glide but I think some kind of grease might work better. ( disco,trigger bar, hammer)

5w30 and amsoil grease.

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What are yall using to lube the interactive parts. I've been using slide glide but I think some kind of grease might work better. ( disco,trigger bar, hammer)

Slide glide is grease?

I actually use oil (mpro7, or my now dwindling stock of kleenbore f3) for the sear, hammer, trigger return spring etc. I use slide glide (grease) on the rails, lockup surfaces (barrel lugs etc).

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