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The safety must be operational if you are shooting production.

No, the safety is the double action. The primary method of safety on a DA/SA pistol IS the double action.

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Appendix D4, 22.1

Disabling of any external safety or externally operated safety

Remains in effect external- and externally operated

safety mechanisms must remain operable. (no

change)

Special Notes/Clarifications:

For purposes of this clause, a trigger safety is

externally visible, and must remain operable.

For purposes of this clause, the prohibition on dis-

abling means that you may NOT modify an external

safety mechanism in any way that affects its function

as a safety per the OFM design.

For purposes of this clause, a magazine disconnect

is NOT considered a safety mechanism, and may be

removed.

Please note that other clauses in the body of the com-

petition rules require that a trigger mechanism must,

at all times, function safely (5.1.4), that handguns

must be serviceable and safe (5.1.6) and that the

Range Master is the final authority on the definition

of safety as it pertains to the mechanism of the gun

(8.1.2.4). It is the competitors responsibility to be

able to demonstrate at any time that all factory safety

mechanisms are functional, regardless of whether they

are internal or external.

The safety does not have to be ON when holstered with the hammer down for production and on the stock gun the safety will not go on with the hammer down.

The safety DOES have to be operational, and may not be disabled.

Edited by bthoefer

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Mine doesn't function in either mode so I will either fit the safety/sear area or just buy the CGW adjustable sear. I know I will never use the safety since it will only be a match gun but I would prefer that if operates as it should. I have found plenty of useful information here on Enos to get the job done. Thanks to all that have replied.

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IMG_20140123_234820_503_zps3ce95fd4.jpg

did you also use 500 grit sandpaper on here or just use some metal polish with dremel to buff it?
I have done it both ways. It is better to sand it on a flat surface before whipping out the dremel.

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ok.. just wanna make sure that i can use regular wet/dry 800 or 1000 grit to do the job.. :)

by the way can this part be removed without removing the extractor portion?

Edited by p01luv

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^^^ If you Compete leave it like that.....My Shadow is like that and I have NOT accidentally clicked the safety while shooting a stage ; )

I agree with this ^^

If you compete in USPSA and shoot Production your safeties must work.

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The safety must be operational if you are shooting production.

No, the safety is the double action. The primary method of safety on a DA/SA pistol IS the double action.

Appendix D4 22.1 Disabling of any external safety or externally oper- ated safety

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IMG_20140123_234820_503_zps3ce95fd4.jpg

did you also use 500 grit sandpaper on here or just use some metal polish with dremel to buff it?
I did all mine by hand with 600 & 1000 grit. I never touched it with a dremel and it feels awesome. No more gritty, heavy trigger pull compared to stock. Edited by nmbpman

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I did all mine by hand with 600 & 1000 grit. I never touched it with a dremel and it feels awesome. No more gritty, heavy trigger pull compared to stock.

I go up to 1200 or 2000 (which makes it *very* smooth), then use Flitz on a Dremel felt wheel, which makes it like glass.

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I did all mine by hand with 600 & 1000 grit. I never touched it with a dremel and it feels awesome. No more gritty, heavy trigger pull compared to stock.

I go up to 1200 or 2000 (which makes it *very* smooth), then use Flitz on a Dremel felt wheel, which makes it like glass.

Nice, when I did mine, I was clean out of any polishing compounds, but I'm still extremely happy with the way it feels.

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I actually took a little off the sear, off the 'foot' of the FPB lifter and the trigger bar where it picks up the lifter to get it that short.

sorry, i'm very new to smithing, but which part on the sear should i polish? are there any photos with circle or arrows on which section to polish?

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I actually took a little off the sear, off the 'foot' of the FPB lifter and the trigger bar where it picks up the lifter to get it that short.

sorry, i'm very new to smithing, but which part on the sear should i polish? are there any photos with circle or arrows on which section to polish?

Well since you are new to all of this, you should learn why you are polishing every part you work on.

Simply put, you should polish the two parts of the sear that the hammer engages.

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Ok. I have the P01, do I haven't removed the decocker yet since I'm waiting for my slave pin to arrive. Once I have that, I'll figure out which side are engaging with the hammer.

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Ok. I have the P01, do I haven't removed the decocker yet since I'm waiting for my slave pin to arrive. Once I have that, I'll figure out which side are engaging with the hammer.

There are actually two sides you need to polish. You can see them if you watch the hammer engage the sear.

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Ok. I have the P01, do I haven't removed the decocker yet since I'm waiting for my slave pin to arrive. Once I have that, I'll figure out which side are engaging with the hammer.

Have you tried using the main spring plug pin? When you remove the grips, the lower pin at the base of the back strap, near the bottom of the grip, that you push out to drop the main spring plug and spring, try using that pin as a slave pin for the sear cage.

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I recently picked up a stock CZ SP-01 Tactical(9mm) and I'm wanting to bring the heavy trigger pull down a notch. I ordered the SPGK1, and the 13# recoil spring from CGW. While replacing these I'm going to polish up a few things from this thread. My question is; Do I need to replace any of the internals by putting these springs in, or can I just swap springs and go?

Also, any idea what I can expect as far as #'s just from replacing the spings and a light polish on the easily accessible items?

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I recently picked up a stock CZ SP-01 Tactical(9mm) and I'm wanting to bring the heavy trigger pull down a notch. I ordered the SPGK1, and the 13# recoil spring from CGW. While replacing these I'm going to polish up a few things from this thread. My question is; Do I need to replace any of the internals by putting these springs in, or can I just swap springs and go?

Also, any idea what I can expect as far as #'s just from replacing the spings and a light polish on the easily accessible items?

Every gun is different but I suspect it will drop the DA pull by 3 to 4 lbs.

Since it is a Decocker, there really isn't much that you can access unless you take the sear cage off. I wouldn't bother going that far unless you are going to upgrade the hammer and the disconnector.

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I have a question about polishing the firing pin channel and the firing pin.

In reading up on polishing feed ramps, I've seen that you do your polishing strokes in the direction of the bullet motion, so that the "lines" would be parallel with the main axis of the gun. If I chuck the firing pin and polish it in a drill, the abrasion will be circumferencial, not axial. Wouldn't axial be better? On the same line, when using the rolled up sand paper in the channel, do you go in and out or twist? In and out would seem better.

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I have a question about polishing the firing pin channel and the firing pin.

In reading up on polishing feed ramps, I've seen that you do your polishing strokes in the direction of the bullet motion, so that the "lines" would be parallel with the main axis of the gun. If I chuck the firing pin and polish it in a drill, the abrasion will be circumferencial, not axial. Wouldn't axial be better? On the same line, when using the rolled up sand paper in the channel, do you go in and out or twist? In and out would seem better.

I didn't see much benefit from polishing the firing pin.

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Polishing is different than sanding. If you are using a buffing style wheel and a polishing compound, there will be no "lines" running perpendicular. Also, if you are sanding with a fine enough grit of paper, you will also never see or feel any lines. (think high gloss finish on the paint of automobiles)

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How about polishing compound on the firing pin and then running it in and out of the channel?

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