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Sight pushers don't seem to work well with CZs, I use a brass punch and a sturdy vice. Putting the slide in the freezer helps too.

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I'll try the freezer later. Unfortunately I burned my hand pretty well today so I won't be able to do anything for a while.

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Well after placing the slide in the freezer I was able to get the rear sight to budge a little but while doing so I pretty much destroyed the dawson sight punch I was using. I might just beat the crap out of hit and hope it comes off and just put an adjustable on it

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I was able to get the sight out today with a steel punch. Putting the new adjustable sight in was just as fun as trying to get the old one out. I will need a bluing pen or something to clean up the sight pusher marks on the sight.

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Putting the new adjustable sight in was just as fun as trying to get the old one out.

?

I assumed you could file the new sight as needed for a snug but not crazy tight fit.

Have not had a front or fixed rear move (have not installed an adjustable rear) and I put them in just like on the videos on Dawson Precisions website. For what it is worth.

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I find it interesting that the sights they changed in the dawson video had to of been the easiest to change of all the sights out there.

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0FF72848-1962-435E-ABB1-9079D6CB7A89_zps

Saw this on calguns while snooping about for a bit. Have a new disco in hand but have not touched anything, the first one will be regarded as a souvenir. Bought the cz custom drop in short reset version this time as I'm assuming dimensions are not exactly the same as the cgw 'drop in' and figured I might get lucky.

Anyway. Problem with my gun is that it will not reset in double action (unless you remove the slide lock and allow the slide to move forward about 1/32" from normal rest position).

Talked to CGW Friday. If I understood correctly (any errors below are entirely my fault and no other parties):

a. It is Abbie Normal to have a problem with double action reset. CGW said my gun was like the second one this year.

b. The fix for my gun is most likely to very carefully remove material from the wing as shown above. Probably will need something like a diamond sharpening stone, need to go slow and be very careful to retain the original angles.

c. A way to see if I am on the right track is to pull the hammer back slightly. If the problem is as I'm thinking, the double action should reset when the hammer is pulled back slightly.

For what it is worth.

Will probably spend a long time looking and thinking before grinding this time. Web search thrice cut once :) .

Anyway, any thoughts are always appreciated.

Happy happy happy.

Apparently the CGW drop in short reset disco is a little tighter on reset than the CZ short reset disco, or so I am guessing, in any case just installed the CZ disco and everything works well and single action pre-travel is as short as I would want. Perhaps on another gun the CZ disco pre-travel would be too much & the CGW drop in would work ok & be better.

Other tidbit, I had screwed up the sear spring by leaving the long leg set up out of the way for safeties installation, forgetting about it, and then racking the slide. Everything worked ok firing wise with the stretched spring and it likely dropped single action weight a smidge but I wanted an unmolested spring in place. With great fear and loathing I bought a couple new sear springs and picked up a sear pin to use as an assembly aid (had used a home made pin upon previous assembly). Using the second sear pin instead of my looser fitting pin (and otherwise following the Professor's instructions on page 1, I think he did say to use something with a fairly close fit so my bad) made the job simple and easy.

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I would just like to say that I completed all of the steps described here on my stock sp-01. I also added a short reach disco from CGW. It now has a trigger that breaks at 3.5lbs, around 8 double. I also have an ACCU Shadow that I gave a light polishing but not much else. It's trigger breaks at 4 lbs, and around 10 double.

The trigger has a shorter reset on the ACCU and a shorter overall travel, but otherwise the trigger on my regular SP-01 is actually better.

Just so you folks know what you're working with here

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I would just like to say that I completed all of the steps described here on my stock sp-01. I also added a short reach disco from CGW. It now has a trigger that breaks at 3.5lbs, around 8 double. I also have an ACCU Shadow that I gave a light polishing but not much else. It's trigger breaks at 4 lbs, and around 10 double.

The trigger has a shorter reset on the ACCU and a shorter overall travel, but otherwise the trigger on my regular SP-01 is actually better.

Just so you folks know what you're working with here

" I did a Shadow with an 11.5# hammer spring which ended up with a five pound five ounce DA and one pound, fourteen ounce SA, very sweet! :D "

Copied from page 1. For what it is worth I read that and then installed CGW springs in both my guns, similar results (about 1/2 pound heavier on average if memory serves) and no failures to fire so far (remmington and winchester and maybe a few cci primers). I will likely move to federal primers and an 8.5# spring but it is tempting not to.

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Add another grateful shade tree smith who found this thread invaluable. This was the first sear cage I tore apart, and it was the P-01 just for fun. I used a LOT of CZC and CGW parts to make my own wanna be SDP (short of getting the rear sight milled).

Great off season project! Thanks again all!

Edited by IronicTwitch

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I will chime in with kudos for this thread. I have used this thread a number of times for different things. I am very glad it is here.

Edited by bowenbuilt

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I've done quite a bit with the help of this thread. However. BOTH times I tried to install the Aluminum Xreme trigger I have had a heck of a time installing the spring and getting a Ghost pin in place but the real problem is while resetting the main roll pin. While you can be a little off with the steel triggers as the pin will "skid" a bit to align itself. not so with the aluminum trigger. The pin cuts in an bends one of the legs or ovalizes the holes in the trigger. Magic anyone??

Edited by hercster

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One thing I didn't see mentioned in this thread is adjusting the trigger bar spring (the spring that pushes up on the underside of the trigger bar). I did the work in this thread, and ended up with a false reset that would drop the hammer in single action without moving the firing pin block to let the firing pin move. I noticed this while hand fitting the short reset disconnector.

After talking with David at Cajun gun works the solution was to adjust the spring so that it rides in the indentations in the bottom of the trigger bar. The left side needs to just touch the trigger bar, the right side should be 1/8 to 3/16 above the bottom of the trigger bar. This fixed the false reset.

I had not touched the spring while doing the work, since I did not put in an extended mag release.

Looking at my xmas present (CZ 75 compact), it appears that at the factory they installed the spring with both sides even in height (eyeballed this, did not measure) and the spring spread such that both sides made firm contact with the frame rather than rode the center of the trigger bar grooves naturally. The gun seemed to work fine, given that it was completely stock.

It would be nice to know more about the effects of getting this thing adjusted correctly, and what kind of problems you get into when it is wrong. Maybe this is not such a big deal since you do not seem to find much written about it ?

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One thing I didn't see mentioned in this thread is adjusting the trigger bar spring (the spring that pushes up on the underside of the trigger bar). I did the work in this thread, and ended up with a false reset that would drop the hammer in single action without moving the firing pin block to let the firing pin move. I noticed this while hand fitting the short reset disconnector.

After talking with David at Cajun gun works the solution was to adjust the spring so that it rides in the indentations in the bottom of the trigger bar. The left side needs to just touch the trigger bar, the right side should be 1/8 to 3/16 above the bottom of the trigger bar. This fixed the false reset.

I had not touched the spring while doing the work, since I did not put in an extended mag release.

Looking at my xmas present (CZ 75 compact), it appears that at the factory they installed the spring with both sides even in height (eyeballed this, did not measure) and the spring spread such that both sides made firm contact with the frame rather than rode the center of the trigger bar grooves naturally. The gun seemed to work fine, given that it was completely stock.

It would be nice to know more about the effects of getting this thing adjusted correctly, and what kind of problems you get into when it is wrong. Maybe this is not such a big deal since you do not seem to find much written about it ?

If this is adjusted incorrectly it will not hurt anything with the gun stock.

If you work over the trigger in a fpb gun you can get a "false reset". This is where the trigger bar catches and resets in front of the sear but hasn't come far enough forward to catch the firing pin block lifter arm. Sometimes you can feel a light click (reset) when the trigger bar catches the sear. If you pull the trigger from this point the hammer will fall and hit the firing pin. The problem is that the firing pin block is still engaged. This causes the firing pin to slam into the firing pin block. This will beat up both parts. It will also cause failure to fire if shooting from reset.

I don't think most people realize that their gun is doing it since they let the trigger out past the reset point. I've felt a couple of guns that were experiencing this issue and the owners were unaware of it. I knew to look for it because a friend of mine had his gun go down due to this. I had it on one of my guns and noticed it while fitting the disconnector. David at CGW walked me through the adjustment. My second gun I used a drop in disconnector and adjusted the spring when I was doing the trigger work.

Edited by bthoefer

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Ok, so I'm starting to shop trigger upgrade parts for a stock SP-01 non-Shadow with FPB, manual safety and night sights. I called David at CGW the other morning to chat briefly about a parts list. He seemed a bit pre-occupied, mumbled something about getting 40 calls a day about this topic and told me to just buy his defensive carry package part #75110. When looking at the parts list pictures, since the written description doesn't specify the exact parts included, I wanted to verify this package would have everything I need for this tuneup. Any guidance from the field on suitability/completeness of the 75100 package? Would I need to add anything else when placing the order?

Thanks!

Mark

Edited by mrgrabow

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Hi Mark,

I installed Cajun Gun Work parts on my SP-01. I bought my parts separately but looking at the #75110 package the only things I used that are not included were the starter punch, 11lb hammer spring and 11lb recoil spring. Other than that you are good to go by following Mr Atlas tutorial. That resulted in a smooth 7lb DA and 3lb SA. Also, the reset was shortened up considerably.

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Ok, so I'm starting to shop trigger upgrade parts for a stock SP-01 non-Shadow with FPB, manual safety and night sights. I called David at CGW the other morning to chat briefly about a parts list. He seemed a bit pre-occupied, mumbled something about getting 40 calls a day about this topic and told me to just buy his defensive carry package part #75110. When looking at the parts list pictures, since the written description doesn't specify the exact parts included, I wanted to verify this package would have everything I need for this tuneup. Any guidance from the field on suitability/completeness of the 75100 package? Would I need to add anything else when placing the order?

Thanks!

Mark

Just eyeballing it, that kit is comprised of:

- SRS-1 (w/ 13# hammer spring)

- CGW L Spring (lifter spring)

- TR-PIN Floating Trigger Pin

- RP-TRS Reduced power Trigger Spring

- Drop in Cajun hammer kit (get the production legal version if you want to shoot USPSA, which he should swap for you gratis) (hammer & CGW adjustable sear)

- T2 Disconnector

- 85 Combat trigger

- CGW quality grub screw for the overtravel stop

- 2 HPINS

- And it looks like a pair of grip screws

I would recommend buying an extra hammer strut ($10) and asking him to put the hammer, disco, and strut together for you and ship it that way, which he is happy to do.

I spoke with David the other day and found him very pleasant, he told me about his game changing TRS coming out.

Edited by ArrDave

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The Defensive Carry Package includes polishing internals, fitting and installation, and return shipping to you (along with your old parts). When you calculate the parts price, the fee is very nominal for the service provided. Dave also called me when they were ready to start on my 75b to discuss what I was going to be using my pistol for before they did anything. The package takes care of everything except recoil spring and sights. I was very pleased with their work.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

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I spoke with David the other day and found him very pleasant, he told me about his game changing TRS coming out.

And ?

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And ?

It's due out in march, uses two dual coil springs instead of one whateveryoucallit style spring they currently use. The springs individually are rated at over 250,000 cycles, and even were one to fail, there's another one that will keep it operational. He's really excited about it. He said it's going to be really reasonably priced as well.

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And ?

It's due out in march, uses two dual coil springs instead of one whateveryoucallit style spring they currently use. The springs individually are rated at over 250,000 cycles, and even were one to fail, there's another one that will keep it operational. He's really excited about it. He said it's going to be really reasonably priced as well.

Thanks! The cycle life is exciting.

The busted spring thing seems like it would be only for a self defense application where more trigger weight than needed is ok, but maybe I am missing something.

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Here is the parts list I used in my SP-01s.

Cajun Gun Works

10040, CZC race hammer and CGW sear

TR-PIN (floating trigger pin)

H-pin x2 (hammer pins)

RP-TRS (reduced power trigger return spring)

85C trigger

1485-T2 disconnector (short reset disconnector)

Recoil springs 11lb x2

SRS-2 (firing pin, fp spring, fp retaining pin, hammer spring 11#, FP block lifter and spring, )

Extended firing pin (included in SRS-2)

75060 Stainless steel guide rod

61050 Extended firing pin (spare)

61100 FP retaining pin (spare)

Dawson Precision

Dawson .195 h / .95 wide

019-115

CZC

CZC Competition Rear sight

Flat mainspring plug

Stainless mag brake

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