Steve RA Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Well, I stand corrected on the shims, evidently they will work on the cast as well as the up and down movement of the stock relative to the bore/sight line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 First has your trigger been modified ? If your trigger is not resetting there's where to start. Pull the trigger out; Function check it. If it wont release best to send it out for repair work because you might need parts which most of use don't have, and are still hard to get. (If its releasing smoothly every time) Clean it out with gun scrub synthetic, cue- tips, tooth brush and use a thin light oil like CLP or Rem. Run it again Trigger was done as part of MOA package. I disassembled and cleaned the whole thing after the issue happened. Everything in the trigger looks fine and functions as I would expect. Function tested it today 10slugs (Fiochi/TruBall/Rem sluggers) all ran fine. I don't think the slugs have anything to do with it now.. just seems random. Here is what I did today after taking it all the way down and cleaning/lubing. Ran 50rds of Winchester AA Light load (2 3/4 Dram)and 30ish rounds of the Remington STS low recoil (2 3/4 Dram). Within the first 50rds the issue presented itself 3times. Twice with the STS and once with the AA. All three times the spent shell extracted, hammer was reset, nothing on the gate, trigger dead. To get it ready to fire I would have to hit shell release(Put one on the gate) and rack the live shell out. I don't know enough about whats happening; but the bolt is moving far enough to extract, and reset the hammer, but not far enough to reset the trigger? This issue has not happened with Winchester AA SS (1300fps) or Remington Nitros(1300fps). I would just blame the ammo and move on but the previous issues i've had with the walmart bulk boxes involved the gun just not cycling. It seems weird to me that with these other loads it goes through all the motions but the trigger is dead. This is the second one of these trigger issues we have seen since we started doing the adjustment packages. We are thoroughly testing right now to determine the cause. The "dead trigger" you describe is most likely the disconnector not releasing the hammer when the trigger returns to the forward position. On the other trigger group that exhibited this issue ( which we are currently troubleshooting) it appears that an unusual amount of side-to-side clearance between the trigger and the trigger slot is allowing the trigger to rock side-to-side. When a side load is applied to the trigger, the disconnector position is slightly closer to the hammer than when the trigger is centered in its slot. When the trigger is released, it does not reset. When the bolt is cycled without any trigger contact ( as when you clear the malfunction), the trigger floats to center and releases the hammer back to the primary hook and all is well. I will call in the morning and help you diagnose if the same issue is occurring. The simple solution is to reduce disconnector "grab", but this can lead to doubles if the trigger travel is set too short. Possible permanent solutions is to come up with a shim kit for the trigger guards with wider slots. We are looking at every option for the best solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliney00 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 I just ordered the magazine tube for mine this morning. and on a side note, is anyone running the factory chokes? mine came with an imp cy, mod, and an extended extra full turkey, I brought the m3k and my 870 (with a $20 close out extra full turkey choke) to my clubs turkey shoot last weekend and won twice with the 870, and had pretty horrible performance out of the m3k, so I patterened it after the event and the spread was about 3x as large as on the m3k as it was on the 870. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 I run factory chokes and they pattern just fine. Only downside is that you have to carry a tool in your pocket. But its cheaper than extended chokes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 1. I ran the factory chokes, until I got to the store and bought a set of Carlson extended chokes, IC, LM, M and IM 2. So far (knocking on all the wood I can reach) my S3k has run 99.9999999% flawlessly, I had one failure and it was in a really oddball position so I think it was likely that I let the gun ride back as I have dumped an entire tube holding the gun out away from me. 3. Shims, I'll take a look at the 'Cast' but that is not where I want to make a change so far. I want more rise, maybe I'll just add a cheek pad to the top of the stock, but I'd rather change the angle slightly. I see too much rib Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Just curious, wouldn't you see less rib if you lowered the stock instead of raising it ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuduman Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I was wondering why Cast - as in cast on or cast off refers to lateral moves. The shims that come with the MK3 only affect the up or down movement of the stock relative to bore line. Here is an article about it: http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/fit.html Ah, no-- look closely at your Stoeger shims. You can flip them around-- I did-- to pull the gun away from my (left-handed) face. I'd say this is a big selling point for the Stoeger that no one is mentioning. So yes, you can change the cast, though maybe not in the increments you desire. I'm hoping someone will make a fancier set of the shims, or something. But it worked for me. One trip to the range, and I got the cast and drop correct with the shims. Dead on at 16 yards, thrown to shoulder. Doesn't much matter for 3-gun, but it does for skeet and trap. I was wondering why the shims said R and L on them, I'm assuming the R side facing out will push the stock to the right? I honestly don't remember. Look at them though-- they're thicker on side than the other. I'm going to guess that one could cleverly stack them, some L and some rotated R, to get some control over cast, as well as drop. Cast isn't really a big deal with shotguns-- they don't kick much. Safari guns do though-- and that's where big money is spent on getting the cast right so it doesn't break your cheekbone. FWIW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickO Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) With Tom's help was able to determine that the issue I had last week was the disconnector not releasing as he described in the post. Readjusted the disconnector ever so slightly and ran 100 rds through it before the Atlanta3Gun Club Championship and then another 150ish through it in the match. The M3K ran fine.. plenty of operator errors :-(. Thanks for the sticker Jesse. Edited October 20, 2014 by NickO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Just curious, wouldn't you see less rib if you lowered the stock instead of raising it ??? Steve, I need to revisit this after I have a full night's sleep. I think I said it wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 I just bought one of these and a few moa parts. Been doing a lot of reading in this thread and others. Have a question on the extension tube install. The instructions are not very clear, what goes on top of the spring ?do you use any of the parts from the factory tube? Or does the spring just sit against the new end cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc1094 Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 The follower and spring are the only thing in the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 The follower and spring are the only thing in the tube. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliney00 Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) with the exception of the dual sided safety that I will most likely order this week. my M3K is ready to rock and roll, She has been seeing more turkey shoot time (won three rounds today) then three gun practice but that will be changing Edited October 26, 2014 by gliney00 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) I got the 28" +8 nordic tube, double oversize safety, stainless charge handle, still waiting on my barrel clamp, and polished the factory mag tube all done today. Shot a box of cheap shells no malfunctions im liking it. Edited October 27, 2014 by Garmil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mertbl Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Anyone used these slugs? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/644566/fiocchi-low-recoil-ammunition-12-gauge-2-3-4-7-8-oz-aero-rifled-slug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Anyone used these slugs? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/644566/fiocchi-low-recoil-ammunition-12-gauge-2-3-4-7-8-oz-aero-rifled-slug Those low recoil Fiocchi won't run 100% in my gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) They are dicey in the inertia guns. Some run with them, some don't. Most common failure is not recoiling far enough to activate the lifter for the next shell. You will need a highly polished surface on the outside of the mag tube, and special care on deburring and polishing the ends of the recoil spring to reduce drag on the tube. 1oz x 1200fps seems to be the reasonable minimum slug threshold. Mine won't run them with a +9rd mag tube extension and barrel porting, my son's will run them with a +5rd tube and no barrel porting. A few here have reported them running or not, so they are right on the edge. Dangit Jesse- as usual, you are faster on the trigger than I am Edited October 27, 2014 by openclassterror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFreedomPhantom Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) Is the nordic follower a 922 compliant part. I wanted to get one from moa but they appear to be out of stock. Also I was wondering if anyone polished the inside of the guide rail that rides on the magazine tube? Edited October 28, 2014 by TheFreedomPhantom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 The follower does count. Springs, charging handles, oversized buttons do not count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 We have both our follower and the Nordic follower in stock. Not sure why the website showed different. Both are 922r compliance parts. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 I run these slugs in my m3k with no problem. Also runs Wally World Winchester 1-1/8 # 7.5 & 8 shot. Have i mentioned that I love this gun! Well OK, I really like it, love might be a bit over the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFreedomPhantom Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Thanks everyone. Would it be better to call an order in or use the website Tom? also I have never shot slugs before. So I was wondering what chokes are not acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 There was a lengthy discussion about slugs and chokes several pages back. General consensus is that the choke manufacturers say not to use mod or tighter, but many of us have used up through mod or improved mod with no issues. Keep in mind that we mostly shoot low recoil (read low pressure) slugs in competition, so we are not trying to cram a 1600 fps slug through a tight choke. Keep it to 1300 fps or less, preferably 1oz max slug weight, and see which of your chokes groups best with the slugs you choose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Out of the box my m3k with a IC Choke at 50 yards put three slugs nearly touching at about 3" below point of aim. I have also shot slugs through as tight as LM and Mod. I don't think I want to go to IM. Only would do that if there were very few slug shots (1or 2) vs a lot of shot on a stage that really needed a tight choke. The one thing I am thinking of having done is adding either a 10-22 or an XS sight for longer tighter smaller target slug shots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jesse Tischauser Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) I have shot a box of slugs through a full choke before. No Elmer Fudd finger in the barrel type explosions. I wanted to see how it shot in case I ever had to shoot slugs on a stage where running a full choke was advantageous. With that said I have never shot a slug through a full choke and don't even remember what the results of my tests were. I have shot slugs through LM and M in matches. Edited October 29, 2014 by Jesse Tischauser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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