kuduman

For whatever it's worth, I have a 940 that I bought July 2022, but it's the turkey variant, 18" barrel, now with red dot and tube extension. I only have maybe 400 rounds through it, but it's run flawlessly. Alternating Rio (weak and cheap) birdshot with 3" magnum loads-- no problem. It's not accurate with slugs. Best I can do is five in about 10" at 100 yards (often it does better, but I can always count on 10" for five shots). I'm not happy with that, but at least it works well with Flitecontrol buckshot. Consistent 5" patterns at 25 yards with #1 Flitecontrol. Speaking of that... this is a replacement for a Beretta 1301 that I bought and quickly sold. It didn't work with Flitecontrol buck-- it stripped the wad I guess three times out of four, and changing chokes did not help. And it couldn't keep any brand of slug, ever, in under a 12" group at 100. Plus it just felt so cheap with that plastic cover over the magazine extension, and the rattle in the pistol grip stock from the sling attachment... just too much. Good bye... It was reliable though. Anyway, so far I'm happy with the 940. FWIW.

I had so many issues with mine, I sold it. Slugs not grouping well, Flitecontrol wads being stripped open some of the time (so one 2" group, next 8" at 15 yards), and buckshot hitting 6" left of POA at 15 yards-- so slugs and buck not hitting close to each other at indoor distance. It was 100% reliable at feeding, but something very wrong with the barrel. Like you, my cheap shotguns don't have any of those problems.

I dropped it like a hot potato-- got all my money out of it and moved on. Worthless to me if it can't shoot Flitecontrol consistently. And it occurs to me that whatever's wrong with the barrel might be why it shot slugs so inconsistently. Between the bad barrel and the lack of attachment points, the rattling Mesa stock, the somewhat different manual-of-arms, long lousy trigger pull, the cheap-feeling extension shroud and forend, consider me unimpressed. But it was 100% reliable for feeding and shooting, and I've never worked with another autoloading shotgun that was.

No, 2" groups is correct. 16" groups with is not.

Nolan, The new version is 922-R compliant, and has a 7-shot single-piece magazine. You cannot add to it. So no dice there-- but the old arrangement is better-- it allows for attachment points that the "new and improved" version does not. Accessories that fit the old one don't fit Gen 3, even though some websites erroneously claim that they do. And no one makes a magazine clamp that will fit the new plastic shroud over the 7-shot tube. I have no interest in a red-dot, so while I could mount one to test accuracy, it doesn't solve my problem. I've already pulled all the screws on the sights and rail and Loc-tited them down. Didn't help. But it's disconcerting to hear yours were loose! I didn't hate pistol grips until I bought this gun; I'm wishing I'd just bought a normal stock. Then it would have cast adjustment, be easier to short-stock, etc. I've emailed Beretta; maybe they'll answer this query (though they ignored the one last year to get the instruction manual they neglected to include or post on the web). I think I'm talking myself into dumping this turkey. Nolan, does yours shoot Flitecontrol correctly?

Barrel seems tight. Borescope isn't showing any burrs in the receiver. Thank you! Keep the ideas coming.

So I have a new Beretta 1301 Tactical, with the factory 7-round tube. It is certainly reliable-- eats light trap and heavy 3" turkey loads back to back for example. Zero problems with that. But it's not accurate. I've tried three kinds of slugs (not easy during "Let's Go Brand0n"), but struggle to shoot a 20" group at 100 yards. I can do that with the bead sight on a 26" Stoeger. I was expecting better. Worse though, it seems to be messing up Flitecontrol buckshot. 5 out of seven (and that's all I'm going to waste for now), scattered shot all over the target. Like 16" group at 15 yards. Then the next shot worked right-- 1.5" hole. This is with the impossible to replace #1 buck, FWIW, and the factory Cylinder bore choke tube (yes, this 1301 Tac is threaded for chokes, though I am beginning to wish it were not). It also seems to be shooting a couple of inches left (with buck) at 15 yards, even though sighted in at 100 with slugs. Not good. I am not a shotgun expert, so not sure what the problem might be... other than a bad barrel. Behavior is same with included IC choke tube, so it's not just the Cyl choke tube. Gun has about 50 rounds through it. I can't use this thing if one shot is 2" and the next 16" with the best defense loads money can buy. It has some design problems, for anyone looking at buying one. The barrel clamp has the sling attachment on the bottom, and the accessory slot on the top-- reversed from where they should be, so the sling will attempt to turn the gun upside down. No attachment points on the fore end, so no good place to put a light. No cast plates for the pistol grip stock... and no instruction manual at all covering this model. But I digress. I'd be OK with all the rest, but it's the Flitecontrol failures that are the deal-killer for me. None of my other shotguns have ever had a problem with FC. Before I get pushy with Beretta, anyone got suggestions for something _I_ could be doing wrong?

I assume that eventually the aftermarket will come up with solutions for these problems. But I'm not holding my breath.

So I happened across one of these the other day, and purchased it, after seeing the glowing review on TFB about it. This is the new version with 7-round factory magazine, and 922 compliant. Mine has the Mesa pistol-grip stock. These are so new Beretta doesn't have an instruction manual for it, in the box or online. Since they changed the design to fix the well-known feeding problem, a manual would be helpful. The "manual of arms" for this gun is different from the earlier models. But you're on your own for now. It's reliable, and seems to operate with everything from light trap loads to heavy magnums. That's super nice, and what I bought it for. It's really lightweight, which is great when you're not shooting it. The new version has a barrel threaded for choke tubes, several of which are included. You can watch James Reeves' review on Youtube of the older 1301 tactical model, for all the good points discussed in depth. He adds a two-shot extension, a barrel clamp with sling point and rail for a light. The new version comes with something similar, but not as good-- sorry Beretta. The new version has some issues in my opinion. That light weight gets old in a hurry when you're shooting it. Far from a deal-killer though. The new tube is one piece, and has a plastic screw-on cover over it. That cover doesn't fit any mag/barrel clamp of which I am aware, except the one that comes with the gun. And that one is backwards-- it has the sling attachment point on the bottom, and the M-lok slot on the top. So the gun is going to try to turn upside down when slung. The other sling point on the stock is also not at the top, making for an awkward arrangement. You can work around this-- install a sling point cup in the stock in the place of your choosing, and waste the M-lok slot on a front sling mount point. But it's a shame Beretta didn't do it right to start with. There's nowhere to mount a light on the gun, except the M-lok slots on the clamp, and the light will be too far forward to operate out there. You could do it, and glue on a switch, but Beretta should have put some slots in the handguard (or something similar). The aftermarket parts (GG&G specifically) don't fit the tube on this new version. So you can't just replace the clamp or add the rail section "plate" between the handguard and the tube cover (what would be a nut with a Nordic extension). As of today, you're stuck gluing on a switch, or drilling holes in your nice new handguard. The Mesa pistol grip stock doesn't come with cast plates, so you're stuck getting pounded in the cheek, left or right handed. As of today, I'd say you are better off with an older one, with the Nordic extension and maybe the GG&G rail section "plate" between the nut and handguard. That said, it's accurate with slugs, and can shoot ridiculously fast if you want to.

Uh... you know you can order lead bullets in other sizes, right? Just order them .001" larger.

Hmmm... not from my place. IP resolves via DNS, but the web server never answers. I'll try via some other internet source.

Too bad their web page has been down for at least four days; I'd like to order one of these.

Is the TRS breaking an issue on the Tactical Sport too? Or just the DA guns?

Sounds like a good excuse to fly over there. (To save the shipping cost I mean.)

Now that you mention it, I may have had to hammer it the first time. I've pulled the extractor a few times since then and completely forgot. I should probably update the video so people don't think there's a problem with theirs. One tip for hammering pins out that has helped me immensely is to use a hockey puck (they're $6 for a 3 pack on Amazon). Drill a hole in it and then place the bolt/slide/frame whatever on top with the pin over the hole you drilled. Then you can hammer the pin out without damaging the gun. Ha! We built a wooden vice block for mine. Broke four punches, and never did get it out. Gave up. "Staked"? Try "welded".

Anyone tested open threads vs. Diffuser? I run no choke for very close stages. I've used Fiocchi Spreader shells. They seem to match my Skeet choke (.005" restriction), but five yards closer. That means a big pattern at 5, and a huge one at 10. In my rather limited testing, I was getting nice clean patterns. No holes. YMMV. Using Carlson SKT choke. I wouldn't hesitate to use them with a heavier choke, on a mixed short/long stage.

77 SMK and either Varget or 8208. I switched to 8208 because 1.) It meters, whereas I had to weigh every Varget charge, and 2.) Because it has maintained availability during the late unpleasantness. Lake City brass, 23.3 gr. 8208 (from memory; I won't swear that was my best charge), 77 SMK, near mag length OAL. Sub-MOA from multiple ARs-- including a sporter-weight Palmetto barrel. Ran the "all day MOA challenge" with both. .7 MOA in the target gun; .82 MOA in the sporter. For blasting ammo (there are no stages around here over 100 yards), AA2230 when I can get it. It flows like water and meters perfectly every single time. Don't spill it though-- those little balls will run all over the floor. This is not the powder for the 77s though.

What he said. Presumably, if you need more or different plates, someone with a 3D printer ought to be able to help you out.

EEZOX to prevent rust; Evaporust to remove it.

You are correct... I forgot about my extended choke...

+5. +6 is flush with the 26" barrel.

Well, I've buggered it up good. I guess I hammered too much on the wrong end-- I've broken three punches on the correct end-- no movement. Got a more mechanically adept (and equipped) friend; maybe he can get it out.

Thanks, Tom-- I think I know what I was doing wrong.

Any advice on how to get that bugger out? Is it tapered or something? A little pounding didn't work. Would like to know if there's a secret before the serious pounding. Also, what's the best source for a replacement pin? I'm assuming I'm going to ruin it before I get done. Thanks.

+6 is correct, and yeah, buy from MOA. Support the folks tweaking this shotgun....