Eric1231 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickO Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? yes http://www.midwayusa.com/product/316916/briley-spectrum-mach-1-extended-choke-tube-benelli-except-crio-beretta-mobilchoke-12-gauge?cm_mmc=se_service-_-shippingconf-_-shippingconf-_-ProductShippedTodayLink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apmech Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? yes http://www.midwayusa.com/product/316916/briley-spectrum-mach-1-extended-choke-tube-benelli-except-crio-beretta-mobilchoke-12-gauge?cm_mmc=se_service-_-shippingconf-_-shippingconf-_-ProductShippedTodayLink Or http://www.powerfactorshooting.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BENELLI-MOBILE-CHOKES Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Carlson's are very popular: http://www.choketube.com/choke-tube-product-details.php?Benelli-Mobil-Choke-Tubes&mf=3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Carlson's are very popular: http://www.choketube.com/choke-tube-product-details.php?Benelli-Mobil-Choke-Tubes&mf=3 No...never seen a need, even after testing....but Carlson's are the best for the least ($) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Props to the fine folks at Benelli! My M3K shipped with 3 of the same CYL choke. One e-mail and a new set is on the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Mix-ups happen! I don't think I could even function at the kind of inventory levels the big makers have. I am just glad the customer service dept was quick to make it right. Thanks for reporting Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric1231 Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 (edited) They don't work? What were you seeing in your testing? Carlson's are very popular: http://www.choketube.com/choke-tube-product-details.php?Benelli-Mobil-Choke-Tubes&mf=3 No...never seen a need, even after testing....but Carlson's are the best for the least ($) Edited August 12, 2015 by Eric1231 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 I am not sure what Pat found, but here is what we found during testing: At 10 yards, the diffusion choke is evenly distributed on a paper silhouette target, covering the entire thing. Which means quite a few of the pellets were off paper to the sides. At 15 yards, there are holes in the pattern, and at 20, the holes are big enough for a knockdown plate to have no hits. It does indeed rapidly diffuse the pattern, even more so than a true cylinder choke. BUT, at the price of inconsistent dispersion. So, in my opinion it is a specialty choke. It is GREAT for 3GN classifiers with clays at 7-10 yards, where one pellet anywhere is a dead target. But, I fear the reason I see it as a benefit is because my shotgun technique is in need of improvement. Look in the multigun technique sub-forum at Patrick's "sweep" practice on the plate rack. If I could do this like he does, I wouldn't need the crutch that the diffusion provides. The bigger issue is that in ANY other stage besides the point-blank classifiers it is a liability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? Anyone tested open threads vs. Diffuser? I run no choke for very close stages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 No, I don't. Doing this for any significant length of time deforms the threads and/ or plastic fouls them badly, to the point that chokes are hard to get in and out. Chrome lined bores are harder, and more apt to filling threads with plastic. I had to re-tap the threads on my Remington from shooting no-choke for a while when jump-shooting quail without a dog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 I am not sure what Pat found, but here is what we found during testing: At 10 yards, the diffusion choke is evenly distributed on a paper silhouette target, covering the entire thing. Which means quite a few of the pellets were off paper to the sides. At 15 yards, there are holes in the pattern, and at 20, the holes are big enough for a knockdown plate to have no hits. It does indeed rapidly diffuse the pattern, even more so than a true cylinder choke. BUT, at the price of inconsistent dispersion. So, in my opinion it is a specialty choke. It is GREAT for 3GN classifiers with clays at 7-10 yards, where one pellet anywhere is a dead target. But, I fear the reason I see it as a benefit is because my shotgun technique is in need of improvement. Look in the multigun technique sub-forum at Patrick's "sweep" practice on the plate rack. If I could do this like he does, I wouldn't need the crutch that the diffusion provides. The bigger issue is that in ANY other stage besides the point-blank classifiers it is a liability. Your testing mirrors mine my friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? Anyone tested open threads vs. Diffuser? I run no choke for very close stages. Threads are the same as Cylinder. Cylinder is a "thread protector" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garmil Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? Anyone tested open threads vs. Diffuser? I run no choke for very close stages. Threads are the same as Cylinder. Cylinder is a "thread protector" That makes sense. Any truth in the threads spinning the wad like in a diffusion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? Anyone tested open threads vs. Diffuser? I run no choke for very close stages. Threads are the same as Cylinder. Cylinder is a "thread protector" That makes sense. Any truth in the threads spinning the wad like in a diffusion? I don't think the wad makes significant contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? Anyone tested open threads vs. Diffuser? I run no choke for very close stages. Threads are the same as Cylinder. Cylinder is a "thread protector" That makes sense. Any truth in the threads spinning the wad like in a diffusion? I don't think the wad makes significant contact.Depends on choke design. The Rem-Choke has the threads at the deep end of the barrel, the threads are long, and close to the ID of the bore. The Mobil-choke threads are right at the muzzle, and are the largest diameter part of the choke tube. They are also threaded for a very short distance (comparative to the Rem-choke)after a long parallel section larger than the bore. On the Rem-choke, wad contact is a definite reality. On the Benelli design, much less likely. In either event, the threads are nearly perpendicular to the bore and have no leverage to spin the wad, whereas the Diffusion choke has a very slow twist rate. Realistically speaking, the effect would be the opposite. Increased friction as the wad expands against the threads would slow the wad, allowing the shot to exit the shot cup early, before the petals expand from air resistance. This is proven to actually tighten patterns, as in the pattern-master choke system described here: https://www.patternmaster.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 No, I don't. Doing this for any significant length of time deforms the threads and/ or plastic fouls them badly, to the point that chokes are hard to get in and out. Chrome lined bores are harder, and more apt to filling threads with plastic. I had to re-tap the threads on my Remington from shooting no-choke for a while when jump-shooting quail without a dog I have to agree with, and reiterate, that train of thought. While you hear of shooters (3 Gunners and clay target shooters alike) speak of shooting “threads” occasionally it can only lead to eventual problems. A cylinder bore (no constriction) choke tube screwed in place is a cheap safe guard against a potential problem down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 I have an old pattern master choke. It came with a shotgun that I bought a while back. weirdest thing i have ever seen. It has square blocks inside the choke... I have not shot anything with it but it seems to have been well used. The guy I bought the shotgun from said in the day it was "the choke" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louu Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 (edited) New tech on the extractor issue- I really don't believe in the long run that replacing all these extractors and springs is going to be necessary. I have some pictures to show what I mean. In almost every case where we have had a Stoeger come in due to extraction issues, we have found scratches on both sides of the extractor as shown in the first picture. If you push the extractor to one side or the other of its slot in the bolt head and try to pivot it, you can feel it bind on the sides of the slot. It feels kind of gritty, like sandpaper. After removing the extractor, small burrs are evident right at the top edges of the slot. My son's shotgun began having extraction issues at the MGM Junior camp after many months and at least 2,000 rounds of flawless function. After getting back, I decided to trouble-shoot instead of just replacing every part in sight. So, I used a diamond coated needle file to remove the burrs at the mouth of the slot, and flat-polished the sides of the extractor on 600 grit paper to remove the burrs along the scratches shown in the pic. After re-installation, drag on the sides of the extractor was significantly less than before. On Saturday, we had a local 3gun match, and my son shared the shotgun with another shooter. Between the two of them there were nearly 200 rounds fired with no more extraction issues, FROM THE SAME LOT OF AMMO that was giving 1-2 FTEs per magazine load earlier in the week at the camp. So, in conclusion, the Benelli extractor may be a Band-Aid fix. If your extractor looks like the pic, it is only going to fix the problem until the new extractor is also binding up. Check for burrs in the extractor slot. The slightly stronger spring may help overcome the drag, but I put the Stoeger factory spring back in and it worked fine once the underlying cause was addressed. Thanks for finding this. I have a brand new unfired M3K and it already has scratches on the exractor and it feels like there is sand in there. The Benelli spring should be here by Friday and I already have the Benelli extractor. I'm going to polish the inside of the bolt head extractor groove. Do you have plus 2 extension kits with the MOA nut? I also need to get your follower, the stock one keeps getting stuck loading. Will probably order in the next couple days. Edited August 12, 2015 by louu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuduman Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Is anybody running a diffuser choke? Where do you get them at? Anyone tested open threads vs. Diffuser? I run no choke for very close stages. I've used Fiocchi Spreader shells. They seem to match my Skeet choke (.005" restriction), but five yards closer. That means a big pattern at 5, and a huge one at 10. In my rather limited testing, I was getting nice clean patterns. No holes. YMMV. Using Carlson SKT choke. I wouldn't hesitate to use them with a heavier choke, on a mixed short/long stage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuduman Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 wow, I had to pound the crap out of mine... I really think the holes were staked. Now that you mention it, I may have had to hammer it the first time. I've pulled the extractor a few times since then and completely forgot. I should probably update the video so people don't think there's a problem with theirs. One tip for hammering pins out that has helped me immensely is to use a hockey puck (they're $6 for a 3 pack on Amazon). Drill a hole in it and then place the bolt/slide/frame whatever on top with the pin over the hole you drilled. Then you can hammer the pin out without damaging the gun. Ha! We built a wooden vice block for mine. Broke four punches, and never did get it out. Gave up. "Staked"? Try "welded". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Can anybody guide me through taking out the bolt release button/catch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJW Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 I've used Fiocchi Spreader shells. They seem to match my Skeet choke (.005" restriction), but five yards closer. That means a big pattern at 5, and a huge one at 10. In my rather limited testing, I was getting nice clean patterns. No holes. YMMV. Using Carlson SKT choke. I wouldn't hesitate to use them with a heavier choke, on a mixed short/long stage. Interesting. I tried out Spreader shells on my M2 several years back. I was shooting doughnuts (pattern with a hole in the middle) as close as 7 yards. Never used them after that. Right now I use LM about 85% of the time, and the rest of the time split between Skeet (close poppers and clays) or Light Full (why did they put targets out there???). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stick Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Can anybody guide me through taking out the bolt release button/catch? Look at TTI'S video on the benelli extended bolt release replacement. It's the same as the m3000. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Norman Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 For 3Gn, I ALMOST never change chokes. LM all the way. It is important to know where your pattern is. Assuming that the L-R dispersion is roughly equal, you need to know the Over and Under for POA. Is your gun shooting a 60/40? 80/20 40/60 or 50/50? If you are shooting a 70/30 choke at heavy plates you may well be shooting most of your shot over the top. This is probably nearly as important as having a doughnut hole in your pattern and not realizing it. Ideally set up a patterning board and hit it from 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 yards with the chokes you plan on using . We have a steel baker at our club, but I don't recommend it under 15 yards, large pieces of cardboard work as well and are much safer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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