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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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No "break-in" shells necessary. 3dr 1-1/8 will run right away. Lighter loads may, but aren't recommended until a thorough test period in YOUR particular shotgun. We have seen 2-1/2 dram shells run with the CarbonArms tube and cut down spring spacer, but not all guns with this combo will do it reliably. Don't trust ANY ammo in YOUR shotgun until it has been tested. Preferably not tested during a match :)

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No "break-in" shells necessary. 3dr 1-1/8 will run right away. Lighter loads may, but aren't recommended until a thorough test period in YOUR particular shotgun. We have seen 2-1/2 dram shells run with the CarbonArms tube and cut down spring spacer, but not all guns with this combo will do it reliably. Don't trust ANY ammo in YOUR shotgun until it has been tested. Preferably not tested during a match :)

Thank you for the info.
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Shooting slugs through your Stoeger At 100 yards off a bench; what is the typical size group you'r getting ?, and what brand of slugs are you using?. Looking for consistency as well as accuracy, and of coarse reliability. Federal True ball, just all over the place, but its reliably.

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My 13 year old shoots the Xtreme copper plated slugs. I have been able to shoot consistent 100 yard groups in the 3" range rested. Hit a 10" flasher at 200 yards 6 out of 10 offhand with them. Remington sluggers print about 4" at 100 yards as did the B&Ps. The B&Ps and low recoil Fiocchi did not run 100% though (the 2 3/4 dram loads).

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Shooting slugs through your Stoeger At 100 yards off a bench; what is the typical size group you'r getting ?, and what brand of slugs are you using?. Looking for consistency as well as accuracy, and of coarse reliability. Federal True ball, just all over the place, but its reliably.

I find I always shoot a shotgun WORSE off a bench and better off hand. Usually with 7/8oz Fiochi's (which have never failed me) I get the holes to touch at 50 yards. I never bothered to measure the group, I figured that is good enough. That is with a LM choke.

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I check group size and location with all chokes from skeet to mod, so I know what chokes I can run on slug stages. I shoot better slug groups from a supported offhand position (V-Tac wall) than I do off sandbags. If it groups more than 6" at 100, I check the bore for plastic wad fouling.

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Off hand is a lot easier on the shoulder, testing slugs is NOT my Idea of a good day at the range, but must be done. Trying to stay above the 1300 FPS for reliable function. Have tried the 7/8 Fiochi's they did run with noticeably less recoil, but always will ?

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Have tried the 7/8 Fiochi's they did run with noticeably less recoil, but always will ?

I guess that will depend on the gun and on you. My buddy and I both have MOA built guns. Mine has NEVER chocked on the Fiochi's and it shoots them well. Jim's gun will occasionally fail to fully eject with the same ammo.

Actually, the gun hasn't chocked at ALL in practice or match all year long, except when I was testing how low I can go with dram equivalent before it won't run.

I guess a thank you to MOA is in order for building a stupidly reliable gun that even an idiot like me can run without failure :)

Edited by Vlad
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ive been following this thread for a long time. This may be a bad idea and I may get flamed for brining it up .BUT, considering the reliability you can achieve from an MOA worked over edition, has anyone every cut one of these down to 18.5 inches ? I was thinking about doing it and using this for a home defense shot gun. what problems might this cause? should I just use the 22 inch model and call it good?

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Interesting. I just need to investigate it further, I could have been doing something wonky on the trigger in the heat of the moment. Never had an issue before. I may need to just clean the trigger group.

If the hammer fell far enough to strike the primer, it tripped the shell release. There is either a mechanical issue in the shell release/ shell latch interface (gunk or burrs), or the end of the latch where the shell rests at the magazine mouth is rough (it is a cast part), or it has excessive magazine spring tension. The last is not likely if the failure occurred with a partially full magazine. There really isn't any trigger technique you can use that will prevent the shell release latch from functioning. If the hammer falls, there should be a shell on the lifter. Period.

After trying unsuccessfully trying to recreate the malfunction at home, and shooting another match with the same lot of shells, I have come to the conclusion the malfunctions were due to an unfortunate planetary alignment, coupled with an unusually strong lunar tidal pull, and major match bad luck.

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Ive been following this thread for a long time. This may be a bad idea and I may get flamed for brining it up .BUT, considering the reliability you can achieve from an MOA worked over edition, has anyone every cut one of these down to 18.5 inches ? I was thinking about doing it and using this for a home defense shot gun. what problems might this cause? should I just use the 22 inch model and call it good?

I wasn't even aware Stoeger makes a 22" M3000. One might be nice to have at Horner matches.

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Ive been following this thread for a long time. This may be a bad idea and I may get flamed for brining it up .BUT, considering the reliability you can achieve from an MOA worked over edition, has anyone every cut one of these down to 18.5 inches ? I was thinking about doing it and using this for a home defense shot gun. what problems might this cause? should I just use the 22 inch model and call it good?

I wasn't even aware Stoeger makes a 22" M3000. One might be nice to have at Horner matches.

The M3000 is only available in 24, 26, and 28" barrel lengths. I am not aware of anyone cutting one down to 18.5, but there is no reason it can't be done. The only thing you lose is the ability to use a choke. It may be worth looking at the 3 barrel lengths to see which one has the vent-rib base in the right spot for an 18.5 inch cut. You don't want the end of the rib dangling unsupported.

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Can anyone tell me anything about the MOA precision disconnector. Have you installed it on your M3000. Where do you put the trigger screw. Does it help.

Anything that MOA makes for a Stoeger will be first class. Tom knowns this shotgun better than anyone.

?

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Can anyone tell me anything about the MOA precision disconnector. Have you installed it on your M3000. Where do you put the trigger screw. Does it help.

The screw goes underneath the little beak in front of the pivot pin. By itself, the adjustment screw is useless. In conjunction with a second screw to pre-stage the trigger and reduce creep, it allows the disconnector to back off so you don't get a mechanical lock. It is purely for shortening the reset distance so the disconnector can reset when the trigger travel has been reduced. If you are not planning on adding a pre-travel screw, then don't bother with a disconnector screw. It is a drop-in part with a slightly shorter reset than the factory part if you install it as-is.

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thank you sir. my plan is to cut it to the nearest rib, longer than 18.5 inches. I didn't think it would affect reliability or function, but who better to ask.

It will have no effect on either. Reducing the mass of the gun while the mass of the bolt assembly stays the same will only increase reliability with light loads, if it has any effect at all. But you are talking only a few ounces difference, which is less than the weight difference between an empty magazine and a full one.

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Open question to inertia gun specialists. What barrel length is optimum for the function of "inertia systems" to operate at with a 1 1/8 ounce load at 2.75 DRAM equivalent, say around 1150 fps.. Or does it depend more on opening pressure, or hull design? I already have a base line, but I would like to know what others have found.

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