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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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I have been experimenting with less.

p1349258681-4.jpg

What is the purpose of removing the material on the inner side to that angle? Every other one I've seen the two sides have been pretty flat in relation to the bottom.

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I have been experimenting with less.

p1349258681-4.jpg

What is the purpose of removing the material on the inner side to that angle? Every other one I've seen the two sides have been pretty flat in relation to the bottom.

The same reason our pistol magwell are "flared" for improved guidance.

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I have been experimenting with less.p1349258681-4.jpg

What is the purpose of removing the material on the inner side to that angle? Every other one I've seen the two sides have been pretty flat in relation to the bottom.

The same reason our pistol magwell are "flared" for improved guidance.

Makes sense in theory. I guess I've just never noticed side to side being an issue. If I fumble a load its because I brought she shells in too high or low.

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I have been experimenting with less.p1349258681-4.jpg

What is the purpose of removing the material on the inner side to that angle? Every other one I've seen the two sides have been pretty flat in relation to the bottom.

The same reason our pistol magwell are "flared" for improved guidance.

Makes sense in theory. I guess I've just never noticed side to side being an issue. If I fumble a load its because I brought she shells in too high or low.

I generally don't "need" a magwell on my pistols either, but I have them for the benefit I feel they offer. Each to their own.

Again this is not "do as I say" just an experiment from someone who has...let's just say, a lot of successful experience.

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I flare mine in also and angle front to back. Twins or Quads, with proper technique does not need to be deep at all. Sometimes the software solution is better than the hardware solution.

Edited by MarkCO
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I flare mine in also and angle front to back. Twins or Quads, with proper technique does not need to be deep at all. Sometimes the software solution is better than the hardware solution.

respectfully I disagree, when I opened my loading port I started off "safe" then as i got faster I opened the port some more.......then I got faster so I opened the port some more. The reason I go so deep on the left side is so I can keep my thumb behind the shell more without my thumb slipping off. I also want to mention what works for me may not work for you.... I find that with Pats port that 45 is not friendly to the human hand and that's why I rounded off and smoothed it all out.If you disagree read prior comment. Cheers Edited by Oskino
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Just picked up my M3K and noticed the loading port looks different than the others I have seen. I'll still be opening it up more some.

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image.jpg3.jpg

image.jpg1.jpg

Was this out of the box? Looks a lot different than mine.
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Actually, that kind of cut is slower than a more shallow taper out.

Why is that?

Because the angle your thumb follows is different than the angle of the lifter. With a square cut, you have to change the thumb angle during insertion...or risk more popcorn loads.

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Just picked up my M3K and noticed the loading port looks different than the others I have seen. I'll still be opening it up more some.

image.jpg2.jpg

image.jpg3.jpg

image.jpg1.jpg

Where did you buy it from? I want one like that!

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The reason there are 500 different opinions on the "best" port shape is that no two hands are the same shape, and there are so many different loading methods. Some people have long skinny fingers, some short and thick. There are typical thumbs and club thumbs. Strong hand, weak hand, load 2, quad, weak hand 4, etc. Also, some people bend their thumbs a bit and poke them into the mag tube, some cant the gun towards or away from the load hand. Some hold the gun in a position so they can "look" the shells into the port (strong hand), others don't. EVERY ONE of them would come up with a different ideal shape if they were able to try an infinite number of designs. The two most important features are to remove any lips or sharp edges at the mouth of the tube, creating a "funnel" with nothing to hang up the shell nose as it enters the tube, and remove any metal that stops your thumb before the shell rim snaps past the shell latch. For some, adjusting the technique to the gun means not much metal has to come off to accomplish this. For others, this means almost cutting the gun in half so they can have very sloppy hand movements without causing an "accidental ghost load". The minimal method requires a great deal more practice to master, the other can be usable in a few hours. This is why the guys who find that they need a lot less gun surgery also happen to be the same guys who could spank most of us with an out of the box Remington 870. THEY HAVE MANY, MANY, MANY HOURS of practice loading with their preferred technique. And THAT, my friends, will shave more clock seconds off your match scores than any amount of chopping on your receiver. :)

Edited by openclassterror
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Just picked up my M3K and noticed the loading port looks different than the others I have seen. I'll still be opening it up more some.

image.jpg2.jpg

image.jpg3.jpg

image.jpg1.jpg

Where did you buy it from? I want one like that!

I got it from euro optics.

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