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Barracuda

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Everything posted by Barracuda

  1. Barracuda

    Glock Gen 5

    +1 Sights are the most personal preference part of a handgun, so why would Glock spend time and money developing "quality" sights when over half (and I think I'm being conservative) of owners will change them out anyway?
  2. I'm looking into 5" 2.0, and y'all are making it really hard for me to put it off any longer. Can y'all tell me if the 5" 2.0 is compatible with 5" Pro holsters? I have a Bladetech Speed Rig for a 5" Pro that I'm hoping will work.
  3. Hiperfire 24C here. Excellent trigger with almost no pre-travel and very short reset. Looking into the Rise Armament 535 also just to see how it compares.
  4. I'm looking for a good pair of shooting glasses that fit my Asian face. I currently have a pair of Asian Fit Oakley Scalpels that I like, but it's no longer made so I can't get any replacement lenses for it. Looking at the Rudy Project Rydons. Can anybody tell me how they fit or can recommend a pair that might suit my needs?
  5. Both a mil-spec safety from an LPK and a BAD-ASS LW Ambi Safety Selector (both 90 degree throws) have worked with my 24C. Running a Battle Arms Development Lightweight receiver set if that carries any weight.
  6. What grit sandpaper are y'all using to polish your magazine tubes? Also, I'm getting some surface rust on my barrel. What's the best way to remove it? WD-40? White vinegar? Has anybody cerakoted or refinished their barrels to remedy this? Thanks
  7. I bought the cheapest receiver set I could find (Anderson forged, $80 for the set) for a pistol build. Compared to my Spike's lower/BCM upper (which I would consider high quality companies) I built my first rifle on, the only difference is the roll mark. Pick the roll mark you like best and go with it. My 3-gun rifle built on a Battle Arms Development lightweight receiver set is billet and on a whole other level, but it was also $500. Billet can be had for cheap though. Aim Surplus has Noreen Firearms billet receiver sets for $89.95 (currently sold out) and the lowers for $38.95 (in stock). It's 6061 aluminum, but 99% of people won't truly be affected by the difference. Aim also has Royal Arms billet lowers that are 7075 for $99.95 (currently sold out).
  8. Dammit, it sounds like I need some finer grit sandpaper. I just have a regular M3000 that's run very well thus far. It does tend to be less reliable with the lighter loads, but that can be said for many M3000s and inertia guns. I thought it'd run reliably with Winchester AAs (2 3/4 dram, 1 1/8 oz., 1145fps), but again too light.
  9. Finally getting around to polishing my magazine tube. For those that have done it, are y'all wet sanding or dry sanding? Tom, I know you recommend wet sanding with WD-40 or something similar, right? Got an assortment of 60, 100, 150, and 220 grit sandpaper. Are y'all applying anything to the tube after you finish polishing it?
  10. I have one on my M3K and like it a lot. I had a sore cheek the first time I shot the gun, but I adjusted the shims and added the pad and now the gun is much more comfortable to shoot. One thing to keep in mind is that they are not the most durable things. After one 3Gun match mine was starting to get torn up from the gun getting dumped in boxes/barrels. I wasn't throwing it down either, just setting it down fast. I still dig them, but just an fyi. Did you do the 3/16th thickness or something else? I have the 3/16th one, but I think I might peel it off and go with the 1/2" one instead. I have a 1/4" and it's great. At first, I thought it was too thick, but after putting it on and running it I love it. My cheek definitely appreciates it.
  11. http://www.recoilweb.com/ironman-3-gun-first-junior-female-trooper-2-70179.html Using an MOA M3000. Well done, Tom.
  12. Look at TTI'S video on the benelli extended bolt release replacement. It's the same as the m3000.Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk Much appreciated. TheTacticalBay actually has a video using the M3000 for the install.
  13. Can anybody guide me through taking out the bolt release button/catch?
  14. Still need to clean up the front a bit, but going to put it back together and see how it loads.
  15. I actually broke my pair of snap ring pliers taking the cap out. Granted, they were a shitty pair of pliers, but it did the job...barely. It took a combination of compressing the cap as hard as I could while pulling up and wiggling it back and forth. Easily the most annoying part of working on my M3000 to date.
  16. Just ordered a non-railed clamp. Can't wait to get it!
  17. As per their Facebook, they will be making a non-railed version.
  18. I hold my M3000 like I would any shotgun. I think it's pretty safe to attribute your issues to a new gun, as well as the loads being a tad light during the break in period. I guess you could hold the shotgun less tight, but I think there are better options: 1) Break in your M3000. 2) Move up to a more powerful load. 3) Polish your magazine tube. This has shown to help the M3000 run lighter loads. I have done all three and it runs like a champ. I use Winchester AA Super Sporting Clays.
  19. Thanks, Pat. I was planning to be pretty conservative with the front of the loading port. I was just going to remove some of the underside to facilitate feeding the shells better. Hoping I don't turn this thing into a club, although that would give me an excuse to buy a new gun.
  20. Final Picture deleted for redundancy reasons, but I was about to ask how far everybody is taking the front of the loading port. I've been using Tom's pictures as a reference point, but yours is pretty aggressive, Moose. I was going to just thin out the metal above the shell catch to prevent hang ups, but is it safe to actually take it back towards the shell catch/hand guard?
  21. Waiting for mandatory pictures when it arrives.
  22. I started with that bit, but it loads up with aluminum quickly and stops cutting. Ended up using these for the majority of the port work on mine: http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=408 http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=432 I used both 1/2" and 1/4" bands. Switched to 120 grit to clean it up, then used these, http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=511E to finish things up. I have since removed more material from the front of the port, but this should give you an idea of the results: Thanks for the info. Yeah, I really like the sanding belts so far for opening up the loading port. I just picked up some more (60 and 120 grit). They wear out pretty quickly but they're cheap.
  23. Just worked on the loading port a bit more. Used the sandpaper attachments and they worked great. It was pretty coarse, so it did a decent job at removing material. I might try out this attachment though. What do y'all think? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-8-in-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-9901/202263215
  24. Thanks for the replies, guys. I've been using hand files to good effect. I was just wondering what the best rotary tool attachment works best for the job. The metal rotary burrs seem a little pricey, but I've only found them in sets. Are they available in singles?
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