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OPEN GLOCKS


fuentesd99

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I am still leery of taking the dremel or hot iron to it as I may take it back to a production gun.

I am still leery of taking the dremel or hot iron to it as I may take it back to a production gun.

Grip tape is your best bet, if that's your worry. That's how I run my G35. Tape and .40 for Lim, tape and 9mm conversion for Production.

Would a 90 degree mount negate the need to lower the ejection port on the slide? Or would you still need to do that for dependable operation?

In all reality, you don't HAVE to lower the port with an upright mount, but it will cause you a lot less trouble in the future of you do lower it. It's not a ton of material that's being removed, and it's a simple task that any gunsmith can knock out quickly. To answer your question, I don't know for fact if having a 90 removes the need for a lowering job, but I would do it anyway just to be sure. Reliability is paramount.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I was able to get the gun together today since the last of my parts arrived in the mail. Here is the parts list and pictures:

Timber Wolf Frame by Lone Wolf Dist.

Magwell for Timber Wolf Frame by Lone Wolf Dist.

Zev Technologies V4 Connector

Lightning Strike Light Weight Striker

Light Weight Striker Spring

Lightning Strike Striker Safety and Spring

Lone Wolf .40 Threaded Barrel

Carver Custom 4-Port Comp

Carver Custom HD Guide Rod

Carver Custom C-More Mount

Carver Custom Slide Racker

Only thing I am missing still is a ZEV Technologies Fulcrum Trigger but I hope to order one within the next few weeks. It's time I get to loading some ammo up with both HS6 and VVN38 to see what will shoot better in this gun. As far as mags go I am using original Glock 22 Round Magazines which fall in right under 170mm according to the rules. I will be ordering 2 TTI Base Pads as well for 2 extra mags.

Other problems I ran in with building the gun:

1. The locking block for the Lone Wolf frame is a hassle to slide in. It looks like the frame is way to small for it but it is not. There is a video some where online that explains how to slide the locking block in at an angle to make it easier.

2. My Carver Custom comp wouldn't go all the way up against the gun and still have enough room to unlock and lock back up again. I'm gonna try and make a trip down to Florida in August and have Bobby look at it and see if he can work his magic on the gun. Note: There isn't a huge gap, but you have to look close to really notice it.

Pictures:

CompleteOpenGun3_zpse65f4279.jpgCompleteOpenGun5_zps3bcfcda1.jpg

CompleteOpenGun_zpse125bc02.jpgCompleteOpenGun2_zpsb07a5dd6.jpg

CompleteOpenGun4_zpsc90e839f.jpg

Edited by Blcksmk
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Can you get us a close up of the gap you mentioned?

Looks like all you need are some weight saving cuts on the slide, and it'll be gtg. Nicely done!

Thanks! I believe when I make my trip down to Florida in the next few months I will have Bobby machine the slide for me in a couple different ways. Looking at doing a Tri-Top cut, Flat Top and Lined, Coffin Cut right before the rear sight dovetail and match the lines inside of it as well.

I like the slide racker Bobby sent with the kit I bought but, I also like the side-winder type slide rackers that companies make for the 1911's. I also like Infinity's slide rackers as well. Maybe I can order one and have someone re-cut the dovetail...

Heres some pictures of the gap:

OpenGunGap2_zps9aa77dc6.jpgOpenGunGap_zps7a6d63d3.jpg

OpenGunGap3_zpsd7be8cfe.jpg

Edited by Blcksmk
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Correct, it's already flat. No use/need for the tri-top idea. Coffin/lightning/circle/oval cuts for sure.

Looking at the pics you posted, it looks like you may have a barrel meant for a silencer. Not 100% sure, but that's be my 1st guess. Having that gap wouldn't affect function or safety, but if you gotta have it look right, then it has to look right, lol.

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It's very hard to see the gap when messing with the gun. I'll be honest, it really isn't going to bug me much, but I was just wondering why some had the gap and others didn't. At the end of the day, no big deal to me. As long as the gun runs I'm happy.

I've looked at several options Bobby offers as far slide lightning. I see that each one lightens the slide by a certain percentage. Question is, is it better to have less weight? I'm going to assume yes so that the slide will function faster and thus allowing quicker follow up shots. In that case, I would like to do a coffin cut with the circle cuts that reduce 8% of slide weight according to Bobby's website.

Another lesson that I have learned - Lone Wolf frames tend to be a little tight in the magazine area. Both my Glock 22 round magazines are snug going in and will not drop free until you pull them 1/4 -1/2 way out of the magazine area. However, my 15 round Glock magazines slide in and drop free with no resistance. The mags may need to be used a little before they drop free as well.

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As far as the frame/mag issue....chalk and a very fine cut file are your friends.

When it comes to slide cuts, saving weight isn't all people make it out to be. Check out some of the guys vids and see how their guns run with and without cuts. Might give you a better idea of which direction to take. Most every other answer will be opinion.

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Thanks for the help guys! I'll work on the mags next weekend when I get back in town. Also, I've heard that the Arredondo followers don't lock the slide back when the mags are empty... Is this true? If so, I think I will order some of them so I don't have my slide lock back if I run dry. I've heard some guys say that you don't want the slide to lock back when your empty?

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the gap in your comp was exactly like mine on my lone wolf barrel adn carver comp. i ended up just facing the end of the comp till it sat flush with one more turn because it bugged the crap out of me.

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the gap in your comp was exactly like mine on my lone wolf barrel adn carver comp. i ended up just facing the end of the comp till it sat flush with one more turn because it bugged the crap out of me.

What do u mean by facing?

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What is the preferred dot size and why?

I prefer an 8 MOA dot. It's a little bigger and easier to require during transitions. As far as I know, a majority of people use an 8, but I'm sure there's a few out there who love a 6.

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