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About dskinsler83

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    Burned Out
  • Birthday 09/02/1983

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    Morristown, TN
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    Daniel Kinsler

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  1. you would have to pm me for that info
  2. Yep it can be done. Just machined in.
  3. Which connector is it again? Dont swap anything yet
  4. The TTI Kit includes a connector, springs, and housing pin only.
  5. Nothing other than the included housing pin (if it is even different) If you are using a Gen3 then you should be G2G for using the included heavy trigger spring Regards, DK
  6. Gen5’s do not use the traditional trigger return spring anyways. They use a system similar to the NY trigger springs from the G42/43/43X/48.
  7. If it is a Gen4 you will not be able to use a extra power trigger spring. I only use and recommend the stock power trigger spring.
  8. I go to about a 10lb spring for my G34s. I use a load that is about a 137pf amd like the snap and fast cycle. 12-13lb is what seems to be the average though.
  9. Is it a factory striker? I was thinking it wasnt
  10. I would say that the heat and bend induced your light primer strikes. Im gonna get on a bit of a tangent here and please do not take it personally. One can NOT compare the firing mechanism of a Glock to another pistol, especially a hammer fired SA pistol. I have said it so MANY TIMES to customers who contact me wanting a “as close to a 1911 as you can get” trigger. It is a GLOCK not a 1911/2011 or any other 11. A Glock mechanism has to HAVE movement in ALL directions of design to function properly. The is no magic voodoo this trigger has no pre or over travel what so ever Glock trigger out there, if it is claimed, well then something somewhere isnt working correctly. Namely the drop and FP block safeties. Ok. Now sorry but had to say it. On to the ammo, is it factory or reloaded? Primers if reloaded? Machine used to reload them? OAL of reload? Also be sure you do not have to much over travel removed. You should be able to shake the pistol with striker down and here it hitting the breach face. If not then you are not getting the FP block out of the way sufficiently. This causes the striker to hit the FP block eventually rendering it useless by damaging the shoulder and damaging the grooves of the strikeread on the right side. The Glock striker works off of power of the spring being compressed, if anything adjusting the angle to increase the engagement has created a greater compression than to less of one as it has further to move until it releases. A SA pistol like a 1911 on the other hand is driving a firing pin into the primer by striking it, usually by way of at minimum a 17lb main spring, which is what 13lb heavier by comparison. Check the ammo, check the firing pin and fp block, check to be sure your ogive of the bullet is not hitting the rifling causing slightly out of battery conditions, oh and last but certainly not least check the spring cups. Misaligned spring cups can cause drag in the liner, be sure the end of the striker spring is not splitting the cups, turn the cups to keep a solid area over the ending of the coil. Hope this helps. Regards, DK
  11. dskinsler83

    Barrel Fitment

    Not sure what the assumed issue with the barrel is, after following your link I picked up a G19 threaded and G17 standard. Both fit great and fuction correctly.
  12. Normal. It isnt a 1911 which has a bushing around it (which can still wiggle slightly). The Jager rods are top notch and always my recommendation to customers. Also what I run.
  13. I have had both. For EASE of adjustment the MagPul PRS is the ticket. But the XLR is a tad lighter and depending on the bottom style you choose will offer fast adjustments off a bag spur of the moment. I honestly believe if the XLR had the same adjustments and at the same speed it would be the best. But MagPul has that one in the bag.
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